Simon

Oh man, you didn't do the timing when you had the motor out? Would have been SO easy on a stand!

Yeah, that's true. You can keep it together a little longer a good set of UCAs, and some quality ball joints that are all greased regularily. The fact is, though, that no matter what, it's all band aid solutions. To be honest, it's not so much the suspension, as the steering that really sucks.

I rarely take my truck into a mechanic for service, as I do 99% of stuff myself. That said, if I did have to take it to a mechanic it would be a Nissan dealership with which I have a good rapport, and we all share a contact (Morpheus). I'd rather have the dealership look at my truck than some mechanic who specializes in nothing. That said, my father has had excellent luck with a couple of independent shops in the past, and wouldn't hesitate to use them again. I think, as with anything, there's good and bad. Some dealerships earn the reputation of being "stealerships" while other will provide you with great service at fair prices. Bottom line: Find a mechanic you trust, dealership or otherwise, and don't let go.

Yep, the key in ignition could be the cause of your central locking issue. It's meant as a failsafe against locking your keys in your car.

Looks like there's a body lift on it.

VG33's are interference motors. Essentially the same design as the VG30 in a WD21.

Also sounds like either the timing belt skipped a tooth, or was replaced incorrectly. Ignition timing isn't always a good indicator of valve timing.

93+ automatics are buttonless. They key release still exists in the manual tranny trucks.

Brake and ABS light is typically due to an air bubble in the system. Gravity bleed the lines, and then do a full bleed, and it should go away.

WD22 Xterra/D22 Frontier wheels will fit a WD21, though, will have less offset than Legos (sit deeper in the wheelwell). If you're looking at the 2005+ Xterra rims, they will not fit. Bolt pattern and center bore are different.

Pezzy's got a Warn M8000 and has had no problems with it whatsoever, through some hard pulls. She even bought hers used. I'm not sure why others are having issues with theirs.

It's not a hub. It doesn't engage and disengage. It's a fully engaged drive flange. That's why it's got the dust cap on it.

Double check all your grounds as well.

Make sure it's not your exhaust pipe broken over the rear axle. It can break there, and shoot hot exhaust fumes at the floor of the truck, causing your carpet to melt/burn in the cargo area.

Try leaving the key in the on position (not start) for 5 seconds before cranking, and see if it starts faster. It could be a pinhole leak in the fuel lines causing the fuel system to lose pressure while sitting, which the fuel pump has to make up before providing sufficient fuel to the injectors.

Try National 4wd. They can probably get them for you, though, it may not be much cheaper than buying in the US and having them shipped.

I've now received the e-mail 3 different times. Persistent bastards they are!

I got the same e-mail, though, I had written if off as spam. It was some time yesterday and I actually got the same message from 2 different people within the company.

A TB spacer is total BS, especially on an MPFI motor. If it was a TBI motor, they MIGHT increase power a little.

Ahh, I figured as much on the pin. Nice work.

Looks nice, but I've got a couple of questions. What are the bolts for that are sticking out of the bumper? Where does your pin go for your receiver?

I believe you mentioned 6 spoke alloys. You will not bend them. You'll break them before they bend. If the tech told you that, go back, smack him in the mouth, never go back there, and take Adam's shop recommendations with a grain of salt. Chances are, if they think your rims are bent, they don't have them mounted on the balancer properly, which means, they shouldn't be balancing tires. Find another shop.

NTK Part # 24574 It should be after the first cat on the passenger side. Square-ish 4 prong connector on that one in the engine bay. RockAuto sells them for $67.99USD

The hub will separate from the rotor. You need to pry the sucker out with a big prybar. It's a very tight fit. And on the Brake Cleaner thing, you can use brake cleaner, but make sure it's the non-chlorinated type. As long as you use that, you're fine welding on a part with residue on it. If it's chlorinated, the horror stories posted on the previous page apply.