Simon

In Canada, any e-test I've gotten, they don't even look for the cats. They hook the truck up to the sniffer, and if it's under the limits you pass. Simple as that. The only other things they check is for exhaust gases in the cab, and the gas cap maintaining pressure.

Well put!

I concur. I had mine on for about 5 minutes when the smokeshow started as the paint came off. Other than that, they were fine on my truck, and I had no installation issues, save for broken studs, which weren't the fault of the headers.

There is no difference. Regardless of transmission type, the shifter for the tranny will work fine, and the transfer case shifter will need some sort of modification to work. Either get a HB T-case shifter, notch the floor, or bend your stock shifter.

Sure, a stronger grade of bolt might have helped (though, this is also debatable, as too hard a bolt would be more brittle) but we weren't discussing that. The question was if longer bolts would have helped, and the answer is no.

Not even close. If the holes stripped out, the longer bolts may have helped, but those are snapped clean. I've never seen the need for longer bolts with aftermarket UCA's, unless the front end was cranked WAY too high. Even then, it was debatable. With stock UCA's and a really high front end, yep, I can see the need.

Been there done that. On my first WD21. Drill it out, and if you can, re-tap the hole. Absolute worst case, drill it larger, and use a helicoil. That's what I had to do, and it held strong for 2 years that I had it after that episode.

You'd need either a panhard rod drop down bracket (not sure if there's anything commercially available for your rig) to get the panhard rod back to "level".

X2. The front end can really affect the rear. Get your front end evened up, and it should bring the rear right back into spec, or damn near.

X2 on the auto hub. I had the same happen to me after a wheeling trip, and it was not a nice sound. Take the auto hub off, clean it up well, and lube it with a LITTLE grease. Too much can cause the issue you're having. I actually started using a liberal dosing of fluid film to lube the hubs, and it's worked very well for me on both auto and manual hubs.

Personally, I don't like steering stabilizers. My thought is that the will mask problems that would otherwise be apparent without one. I've run 2 WD21 Pathfinders and now my X with 33" tires and never had a problem with bump steer or found any need for a stabilizer. That said, I've also run aftermarket steering components for years, and my steering has typically been in fairly good shape. I could definitely tell if there was play though, and I gave it the needed attention. My fear is, with a stabilizer, I might not have noticed.

You got it.

Not to mention how many rocks are hidden in it. If you know it's not full of rocks, you can keep a little more momentum. If it is, you have to be slow and steady to crawl the hidden rocks. As B said, it really depends on the terrain.

You're right. I did read the wrong article....saw it on EverythingNissan forums and assumed. myself. Try what's suggested in this thread http://forums.nicoclub.com/p1130-swirl-control-valve-control-solenoid-issue-t277195.html

Check your intake piping for any cracks, and make sure all your vacuum hoses are still connected. P1131 means it's running lean, from what I can gather. Also, make sure you give your MAF a good cleaning. I remember you saying your air filter was all wet, so it's possible some crap got onto the sensor. If it's reading incorrectly, it could cause a lean condition.

The stock CL uses ball joint type ends for the idler and pitman arm connections. They are the weak point. When they wear, it allows the CL to twist, which creates play, misalignment and can cause (or at least, assist) in pretzeling your tie rods. The Grassroots CL uses Spherical bearings pressed into a sleeve, instead of the ball joint type ends. You drill out your idler and pitman arms to 5/8" and install bolts through the CL and the Idler and pitman arms, respectively. This does not allow the CL to twist, which helps keep your truck running straight, and helps reduce wear on the tie rods.

A friend with an Xterra had random cylinder misfires, and all it took was an injector flush to solve his problems. It's possible the injector is just gummed up.

It's the connections on top of the sending unit. Guaranteed they're corroded. I had to jumper 3 different sending units on 2 different trucks for the same reason. It's typically the + power wire to the fuel pump that gets the worst. What I did was cut it off, drill through the sending unit, feed the wire through, and then solder it so the wire for the fuel pump. I then used a decent gas resistant sealant to seal the hole, which works for about 6 months.

Well done, love the ingenuity!

Trailmaster is a 4" lift.

Definitely sounds like bushings or a bent arm if it's the rear axle that's shifted forward.

That's just your heat shield. Find a bolt the right size, and thread it home. Worst case, Manifesto's link will get you sorted if there is actually a manifold issue on your truck.

Don't worry about overdriving the 35w RMS speakers either. Clean power from the amp (not the $hitty amp in your head unit) won't hurt speakers. It's the distorted crap running from a "50w per channel" head unit, that blows speakers. The RMS rating on just about any head unit on the market is about 17w. You could probably run 50-60w clean into those speakers without a problem.

That's fine, this is an exchange. Whether or not you've turned in your core should have no bearing on it being the right part. That's what you've paid for.

I can't wait until the part of the instructions where he tells us what the microwave was used for. Good work B, looking forward to seeing the finished product.