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Blackfuse

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  • Posts

    14
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    Stock Path
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Skilled/Experienced Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1994

Profile Information

  • Location
    East Hartford

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  1. Last night I spent few hours working on the timing belt. And.... Yep!!!!... Right Bank seal was leaking oil, and left bank valve cover is leaking too...
  2. Anybody please have this answer?
  3. Hi all; Since I lost both of my rear bunp stops.... I need help with this information: 1- What is the OEM height of the rear bump stops Pathfinder 1993? 2- What is the suggested web site to get them from? THanks...
  4. IMO this FSM should be very accesible to members in the forum. I sticky with FSM would be very helpful. They make live easyer. ;-)
  5. *** Sticky Please*** I was looking for a Pathfinder's Factory Service Manual and had a hard time finding it in the forum, but now I make this FSM available for everyone. This is a good resource... Go to the following link and download the CARPDFNSNPATH95.rar http://rapidshare.com/files/255584248/CARPDFNSNPATH95.rar After download, use the following password to access the RAR file: password: carpdf.net Good luck.....!!! For more information about how I got this Manual. http://carpdf.net/1995-nissan-pathfinder-factory-service-manual.htm
  6. Wow! scary... Call Nissan... you may get a recall for sudden acceleration. LOL! Just kidding. We have Nissans not Toyotas.
  7. Thanks.... I still said look like crap, but still is better than rusty holes. Yeah, I heated the thickest material first and then ran the molten metal to the frame. The biggest problem was the gap between one to another, and the thin thickness of the frame. It was very thin in some areas, but I got most of it with good thick sections.
  8. Thanks guys for the welcoming... Well... I just posted in the Garage section my last "fix" or the worst fix I ever done... LOL How To Re-enfoce Pathfinder Rusty Chassis I thought for some people might be usefull, for others is a no brainer, and for the experts might be an ugly fix. But i hope you like the effort.
  9. So, today I was doing nothing at home and drove to my friend's shop. While he was cleaning the shop I decided to change my rear shocks. While doing this I started playing with the chassis and there you go... I started making holes in it... We all know that chassis rust is one of the biggest Pathfinder problems.... unless you live in a really dry environment. Well mine is one of those with rust problems after been 10 years in the salty roads of CT. One side was mint, I just grind the rust out and painted with a rubber coating (see last picture), however, the other side needed a lot of work. My welding sucks, so I apologies in advance for the ugly seams. Note: this process won't actually fix your rust problems since rust is also inside the chassis, and can't all be removed, but it will elongate the live of the chassis. You could do this all around the frame, but there are other ways, and other better fixed... Tools: -Grinder -Abrasive Wheel to cut metal -Welding Machine (I used a Mig) -Vise-Grips -Patience and a welding course... lots of it LOL! Hardware: -L shape steel, approximately 1/4 thick (You can get it at Home Depot hardware section) -Rubber Paint sealer, or similar paint with catalyst Process: -First find the rust: usually the original coating will be hiding the metals cancer. So, if you can pull the coating with you fingers most likely is rust under and inside the frame. Select the are you like to work on. Don't try to do it all at once. -Grind all those rust are the best you can. Some time the material wall thickness is too thin and you may start a hole. -Using the grinder with the cutting wheel cut the rust out. Basically make the hole big until you get enough material thickness. Having enough thickness is the key to be able to well new material and re-enforce the chassis. Otherwise, you be welding the rusted material and will be making holes in the metal left and right. Try to make them as square as possible, so you can fit the L shape steel inside the frame. - Cut a few L shape steel 1 inch longer than the hole. Make sure you can fit 2 pieces in each square hole. - Weld the steel pieces around the edges of the square holes. Sorry but my welds are piece of crap. Tips Try to have small gaps between the L shape steel and the edge of the hole. This helps during welding. If you can't hold both pieces together... because they are both inside the frame... consider welding a piece of metal in the center of the one of the L Shape steels to hold it in place until you weld around the edges. -After welding all pieces clean the surface and paint with the rubberized paint or any other of your preference. -You also do the following optional steps: Grind down a little bit all welds and patch with another piece of metal and re-paint... for better appearance only. - Here is the Drivers side... looks mint. Enjoy your re-enforced frame.
  10. Got you... well I'm only afraid they get as tight as a Subaru STI Cam gear bolts. OMG thosw get really thight and to get them out you need to heat the heck out of them. I just order the seals too.
  11. I will look into that. I assume the cam gears have to come out too, but this is the right time to do them. Thanks.
  12. Great.... I will do the job with my friend as soon as I get all the parts. My tension rods don't look bad, they may break on the way out. I will be replaicing these parts first... - Water Pump - T-Belt - Front Main Seal - Tensioner - Ignition Cap - Ignition Rotor Then I will work on the suspenssion, but at the same time I will drop the front dif. to seal the oil pan. Well I will be looking for Steveooo to get those bushings, and the bearing races will order soon too.
  13. I'm lost what FSM stands for? Sweet I like the bushing fix. But I looked for the bushing at Rugger's Rock but could not find them. I will contact edicer2 to get more info. Thanks, guys.
  14. Hi to everybody!!! I Omar form East Hartford CT. I have a stock 1993 Pathfinder with 133K miles. This truck has gave me excellent service for the last 5 years. I paid $1,500 and never done any kind of repairs, just oil, filter, spark plugs, and wires. Now I'm wanted to make some suspension preventive maintenance, and timing belt to keep it rolling for another 5 years. LOL Well I need the help of NPORA Members with the following items: - 1993 Full Service Manual in pdf (is this available?) - Other than Nissan, Where I can buy Front suspension lower A-arm bushings? I got the lower arm forward bushings, but I can't find the lower arm rear bushings. Thanks and appreciate the support.
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