Simon

I use my fluid as to guage pad wear on my 95SE (4 wheel discs). When I put new pads on, I make sure it's filled right to the top, and I check it as I put more miles on the vehicle. If it's staying high, I know my pads are still okay. This, though, is granted that I know I have no leaks in my braking system. One place to look for the leak is the rear drums. The wheel cylinders there could leak slowly and you'd never see the fluid, unless you took the drums apart. I had the same thing happen on my old car, and couldn't figure out where the leak was coming from until I had to replace the shoes in the back.

Hey me too!!!! (Pathy broken down for 3 days) My story is a little different though. On the way to a New Years Eve party, I got about 1Km from my house, and she died. I quickly realized the engine wasn't getting fuel, so I checked the fuel pump fuse.....blown. Put another in.....blew that. The next day I took the access panel off in the back of the cargo area, and removed the fuel pump. Tested.....dead. Parts stores were closed, so it would have to wait until the next day. Called around first thing in the morning on Sunday January 2nd, found a fuel pump.... $300CDN!!!! :furious: Put the fuel pump in, reattached fuel lines, and refastened the bracket/plate on top of the gas tank that the pump mounts to and fuel lines run through. Then I started the truck, and walked back to check......fuel spraying into the cargo area of the truck. Had to replace the whole unit where the fuel pump mounts to, and the fuel lines go through because the pipes had rusted through......the sending unit, and gas guage are on that unit. No scrap yards in the area had the part, so I called Nissan...... $200CDN!!! So, $500 later, and she's running great again. -alcohol-

Not necessarily. There are aftermarket ones designed for our vehicles, and are direct fit, that may be a little cheaper. Mine was NGK.

Your high CO rating leads me to believe it's the 02 sensor. Mine was shot and I tried to get it tested anyways, and it failed miserably. As Mr. Pickels said, check the codes, and I'm almost positive that the code for the 02 sensor will come up. Good luck

I've got Moog (TRW) "cargo coils" on the back of mine, that I put in when the stock one's sagged too much. They're a higher spring rate than stock, and are variable rate, so they don't sag under load. The ride isn't too bouncy, and there's alot less roll as compared to the old stockies that were in there. I've had them in for about a year and a half, and I'm happy with them.

I wouldn't think so (though, I know nothing about either the Bilsteins or the Rancho shocks) but I replaced my rear stock adjustable shocks when one broke, with Monroe's, and left the front alone, and my Pathy rides just fine. As far as I've heard, both the Bilsteins and the Ranchos ride stiffer than stock, so it shouldn't make too much difference.

Hello from Acton!

I agree!!!! Welcome. You'll find all the info you need, and more, here.

Very nice!

Hey, welcome. Search for the remote on E-bay, they're on there all the time, fairly cheap. Reprogramming is easy....there's instructions around here somewhere. Do a search.

Exactly......no need for spacers if you get new UCA's. Most aftermarket ones are made to allow for more natural angles of the ball joint, same as if you added a spacer to your current UCA's

I don't think you're going to want to use the Ball joint spacers, unless you have aftermarket Upper control Arms, or you'll end up like 88's Pathy with the bent UCA's. Better off to buy aftermarket UCA's, reindex your T-bars, and crank away.

Just getting new UCA's will give you no lift. What they do is allow you to crank the Torsion bars up higher and still retain acceptable angles on your ball joints. You can crank the T-bars without new UCA's, but the ball joints will reach extreme angles, and wear out much quicker.

When you replaced the distributor, did you clear the codes from the ECU? It could be that the computer is still compensating for the bad CAS from the old distributor, and hasn't "realized" that you put in another one. Just a thought..... Just disconnect the battery for 10 minutes or so to reset the computer, and see if that helps.

Yep, stock speaker location for the 94-95's at least is in the roof. The main speakers face straight down, and the tweeters are angled, mounted vertically, pointing into the front of the cabin. A nice setup for a stock system of it's age.

Anything 6 lug is not interchangeable. For instance, the Chevy rims have the same bolt pattern, but, the rim will not fit over the hubs in the front. They can be bored out to fit, but that's a lot of work, and would have to be done by a pro (IMHO) or the rim would never spin true.

Woah.....I don't think that's what Diesel Boy was getting at........I think he was referring more to the fact that even after 200,000 Miles, our worst issues with our vehicles are things like manifold leaks and other minor things of that nature. As opposed to being worried (in some cases, 100,000 miles ago read:Chrysler, Ford) about getting a new vehicle, we're doing what we can to fix the little things wrong with our vehicles because of how good they've been. I doubt very much that he was trying to put anyone's topic down, as he's usually very quick to offer any assistance he can.

Not anymore!!!!! I've undercoated the whole truck, so it's covered in about 1/4" of rubberized undercoating. Best bet would be to go to the dealer, or call, and explain the part, and I'm sure they'll be able to find it. Just say your Pathy is a 95, instead of a 90!

Yeah, there was a shield attached to the floor, just about the spot where your right foot would sit on the driver's side. (only, on the bottom of course). Not sure if it was ever there on the 1990's or not, but I know it was on the '95. Maybe it was added on a later year model.

Well, I still had a piece of the original, to rivet a piece of metal to, so if you don't, then you'll have to buy a whole new one, or fabricate one out of metal. I don't know what it would cost to get one from the stealer, but that'd be the easiest....

Thanks for the replies. I know GL-4 is supposed to go in there, but I'm just not sure if the previous owner knew that, as I know a lot of people are under the impression that GL-5 replaces GL-4. -alcohol- . Anyways, Mine is a 4wd, so I guess I'll put in 4.5qts ( ) and see if it helps. I'm probably going to mix half Lucas Oil Stabilizer just for a laugh.

Just did one about 5000Kms ago.....fluid looked okay.......though, I'm not sure what was in there, whether GL-5, GL-4, or otherwise. There was very little in terms of shavings and such in the fluid. Does anyone know how much fluid should actually go in the Manual Tranny? I know that the fill hole is too low, and that you have to put more in than if the hole were lower, but exactly how much fluid does it take? I've looked in the Chilton's manual, and my owner's manual, and neither states the capacity!

Yeah, Mine's got 206000Kms on it, but I got it with 118000, and it was pretty beat up. I have 31"x10.50x15 on it, and they're AT's. I haven't had a problem in the snow at all. I did have a problem with it heating up under my right foot, on the driver's side, and I found out that I had a hole in the floor right under my foot!!!! There's a heat shield (a big one) that's attached to the floor in that spot, on the bottom of the truck, and mine rusted halfway off. So I fixed the hole in the floor, and used an old heat shield I had ripped off the exhaust before, and riveted it to the existing shield. Seems okay so far. Anyways, hopefully someone will know what's up with our trannies!!!

Mine does the same thing..... exactly....and only in those gears as well......from what I've heard (I'm not 100% sure) it's probably a bearing (front?) in the transmission that is shot. Mine's been like that for about 30,000Kms, and it's still okay......but I don't know for how long... Sorry I couldn't be more help.....maybe someone else will know.

I don't know how to fix it, specifically, on your Pathy, but I do know that the same thing happened on my dad's car ('02 Buick Regal) and there was information on that in the owner's manual. It turns out that there is a certain button pressing sequence on the remote that can change all kinds of functions, such as "silent locking" and so on...... I'd say check the owner's manual to see if there's any such information in there about a sequence of buttons to enable/disable the horn when locking. Good luck.