GrimGreg

The HB 3" PA lifts came with a splined extention piece. He bought his kit used and that piece was missing so he did the washer stack. Usually we don't need the extention on our Pathys for the 3" because we have the same steering components as HBs but our bodies sit 1 1/2" lower stock.

Actually some places they are.

For the cart, make that your first welding test with the new welder. For the gas bottle, get one from the local gas supplier, a lot of times they do exchanges cheaper than refills.

Check your rear sway bar end links. If they are worn or loose the bar can make a clunk when it moves.

No can do on mine, or any other 4x4 V6 model I've seen.

If you can find a Pathy at a JY, and that Pathy having a switch.

Check this thread on AC, someone else just did that: AC Thread

"Demo" model? Or fell off one truck onto yours?

Don't forget I'll lend ya a hand with the lift and rebuild if you want man.

Nope, all 4 of the boots on my 88's BJs are torn and don't hold much grease anymore. Been that way since I got the truck in 04. My BJs are still going strong so far. Next excuse?

If I had your choices B I would get the Lincoln just because I know I can get parts locally easily for them.

Bottom line for me, I haven't had a need to get new UCAs after my T-bar cranks. I don't see the need to waste the $$$ on them. The BJ won't go beyond what they were engineered for with the stock + crank unless you remove bumpstops.

http://www.ironpigoffroad.com Just a guess, they host the pic. The problem for you would be it is just an add on piece. You would still need to make a tube or other steel bumper to mount it off of.

I paid like $125 for my U-Haul hitch, new from U-Haul 3 years ago.....?

Actually they aren't for that either. All they really do for you is allow you to align it with the use of less shims after you crank the T-bars all the way. For my money, I'd rather just use more shims.

I for one don't trust you one bit.

Open the glass and look at the latch on the door(not the catch on the glass), you'll see 2 screws going through the plastic cover, remove those and pull the cover off. Now you should see the latch is held in place with 2 screws. Those screws are in slotted holes, loosen them and you can move the latch in or out a little.

Actually the market is begining to shift. Some manufacturers are making a wider range of tire sizes for 16,17, and 18s. At the same time you can't find as wide of a selection of 15 sizes.

That is usually a bad cat. Maybe have the mechanic check it and the O2 sensor.

http://www.4x4parts.com/public_html/shop/i...8ea222628995de3

Nope, lucky enough to have watched others get screwed (at least one of which nearly fatally) and avoid their crap.

Or that

Yeah, if you can't free it up then you might want to look into replacing the hinge pins and bushings. Try to lube it up first though, if it is tight then the pins/bushings are probably good. For the rear glass try adjusting the latch out a little bit.

Is it an old Bronco? Newer full size Broncos had the TTB crap.

Yeah, that part is suposed to do that, why it is called a "SLIP-YOLK"