GrimGreg

I could tell from that picture it was going to be what you got, only other shinny thing in the pic was a running board. Yes it is your own fault for not clarifying what you were actually ordering.

Really pretty useless on our trucks (unless you lowered your's and plan to drive it like a race car ).

I've got my original blue rear carpet from my 88, come get it, and you can have it.

Yeah, for a 3", 3 guys and a case of beer can do it leisurely in a day. For the 2", I did mine in 4hrs by myself.

Correct. Also, depending on if it is fully assembled, there is a screw in behind the ashtray also (if missing you'll se an empty o in the top right corner of the opening). If after you take the front bezel off and still can't get to the radio, try removing the bottom cubby. To do that; pull the plastic pin holding the plastic grill piece at the very bottom by the shifter. Then the screws through the sides of that bottom outer plastic piece. the entire bottom plastic ought to slide out (may need to move shifter) leaving just the tray . Once there, you can obviously see where the screws that hold the tray in place are. Once the tray is out, it will give you a better view from the bottom.

Well, how's this: I just drove 1051 miles in the last week from 600ft up to 6000ft and various ups and downs and at various speeds in between. I did it all in my 93 with the steel wheels and MTs (32PSI), carrying my wife and myself + about 1000 lbs of food, water, camping gear, cloths, tools, etc. My average MPG was 18.97.

Did you overfill the oil? Too much can cause bad stuff, overheating being one of the less bad things it can do. Also (kinda got to ask), did you replace the drain plug after you drained the old out?

If anything you might damage a longer shock in the front by over compressing it. I blew a stock one before I replaced a missing lower bump on mine.

You probably didn't lift the front enough. The aftermarket UCAs will make your tires sit that way if you didn't crank your T-bars enough. 3 options for you are; crank more, swap back to the stock UCAs, or try to get it alignened as is and live with it.

If you plan to run tools (Impact etc.) then get a tank. Otherwise just a compressor.

Here's what they mean; when you "lift" the front suspension all you are doing is raising the position of the suspension in it's travel area. Nothng changes to it's range of movement from stock, just where is sits in that range normally. Same movement range/lenght, same size shock for stock or lifted.

IIRC brake fluids, you can use any number the same or higher than listed for the vehicle.

Auto vs Manual makes no difference, just need the disc specific ones.

I think you actually can, from the right one. MPV (VAN) 89-99 4 SP RWD V6 3.0L R4A-EL RE4R01A Found info here: http://transtec.com/selector_guide/Mazda.htm Actually, looking more, it looks like a few Mazda models had them.

I have the 15" : Steel - Rock Crawlers w/ 31x10.5 BFG MT KMs Alum - Panther ? w/ 31x10.5 BFG ATs Like I said, I was getting better withe the steel and MT.

Yeah, but damn it's hard to squeeze it out of them.

It wasn't hard at all for me, though I have a 2" Body Lift, dunno if that changes anything. I had more trouble with #5 than #6.

Yeah, the frames are the same for all years (aside from older ones having better steel in them).

Yep, just in smaller dosage. Anymore the only thing I use besides oil is Seafoam. I'll dump a little in just before I do an oil change to try and help free up any grime.

I would have to agree.

I call BS on that. I got better milage with that setup than with aluminum and ATs.

Less mass and also a smaller contact patch.

Before my exhaust leak I was getting about 20-22 mpg. I'm getting 17-19mpg now.

Get a tune-up and swap to an e-fan.

That's your own fault.