GrimGreg

Work for? If you planned to use it like a dynomat type thing, no. If you plan to fill open areas with foam, yes.

Most use the tow hook bolts, and also most are only supported by those lower bolts.

A little more "posh" than my taste, but I like the rear setup.

:contract: Our engines like NGKs.

Give me a call, we can probably take care of your tail pipe without a 'shop charge" .

All the torque causes them to make use of all the play in the steering system. If nothing is bent or broken afterward then it wasn't over stressed. The aftermarket kits won't stop the movement, but help reduce the breakage that can result. (Nate Murry ran a L&P kit on his Frontier at RTCC at the Badlands last year. In the rock crawl section he had both the front wheels almost full lock inward, one hung up on a rock with the truck floored. No breakage or bending of tie rods, I was impressed.)

Knowing our luck they will only make gear sets for Titan axels .

Then go to Mexico and have it done by an authentic Mexican. (Hopefully they will steal his truck and we will never have to deal with him and clear tails sssh )

Cheapest way, engine swap

Yeah, I never fit any "target marketing". As for any 05+ Nissan :oops: They look like big ugly boxes and have the most uncomfortable (to me at least) interiors. They need to go back to Mini trucks, screw the midsize BS.

Yeah, they aren't much use unless you are at a complete stop. Otherwise they are bouncing all over.

It's a Pathy, it'll be fine....as long as you are up to date on your timing belt change...

Shocks won't cause it, T-bars might. You need to have it alligned. Wear like you are describing is usually caused by the camber being off. When the T-bars are adjusted or sag, they can change the camber (along with toe and caster).

Gotta have that wood grain sly I have one similar to those, but it is kind of limited on how many degrees it will read. I also have a stock Toyota one and it is limited too. I have seen a lot of people using these Lev-O-Gauge .

About the same as PL's but in snow: Closest I ever got to a roll. I have climbed up stuff that was about 70deg, felt like worse than it was.

Cheap ($15 or less)add-on reverse lights: Find a $10 set of driving lights (ones that include a relay), and buy about 20ft of 14AWG (less than $5). Run the 14AWG from the battery back to the access panel and hook it into the relay's hot connection. splice into the reverse light wire and run the splice to the switched power on the relay. Follow the rest of the included wiring instructions and you are done.

True, it is stock, so not much they can really do about it. Though the stock spare wasn't a 31", where would you put a flat 31" when riding the spare.... -thnkboutit-

Ah, well you know an easy way to find out? Try spinning it on

The one at the place you plan to buy the filter might be a good one.

Patzx300 might be able to help you with the Sport Mag questions. As for a nice place to route through the firewall; look around where the throttle cable comes through. There should be a cover plate near there (hole is there for Hardbody truck under dash parking brake). Another if automatic is up by the master cylinder, where the clutch would come through, there is another hole and cover plate. As for amps and such, I think that stuff is

Look in book :contract:

There is a certain procedure for bleeding the system with ABS. IIRC you have to have the ingition on (or some other odd thing) when you bleed the valve on the frame rail.

Yeah, later models used the same console and added a large top piece to the covered part. It had a larger/deeper opening and 2 cupholders that flip down out of the top armrest part.

I've had my stock UCAs with T-bars carnked and UCAs shimmed, no issues. I prefer BLs on our trucks for the fact any suspension change over about an inch in the front starts wearing steering parts and CVs.

Hope the E-Bay seller is just using a generic pic, because the lift in the pic isn't for a Pathy, FYI.