GrimGreg

I "tupperwared" mine. Never had to "test" it's seal, but then again, hope I never would have to.

-thnkboutit- Well, with dynomat (about 1/8" thick) and a good layer of "bedliner" (about 1/8" thick at the thickest) it would be the same amount of material on there.

Even with a machinegiving the numbers, toe is hard to get very precice with on our trucks. There are too many pivot points in the steering. Almost every time I do mine I'll get it set, then as soon as I tighten the TR adjusters it jumps outa spec .

Why I don't have kids, still buying MY toys . I used the largest single fan that Hayden sells for my 93, bouth it new ($160 ). Planning to use a JY fan for my eventual install on my 88.

Yeah, sounds like the fusable links giving you fits. Also (in addition) could be the starter solenoid is going out.

Grease is fine, they need a little, but seem to not like too much.

Shot in the dark here, but would a stuck shut/ clogged PCV valve cause a pressure issue (ie creating a vacuum inside the plenum and opening the throttle = breaking vacuum)?

Someone mentioned once that if one side sticks, check the other side for breakage. As for the rebuild, how greasy did you get things inside? The hubs don't like too much grease at all.

Could be that, might need a tach adapter like is used when installing an MSD. Or some clusters have some sort of resistor or relay that can go bad. IIRC it's a little silver box on the back of the cluster.

I would think a thick layer(1/4"-3/8" maybe) of durabak, or any other rubber infused bedliner type coating would work as well as a thin layer with dynomat type material under it.

Used them a couple times for small rips and such, not great, but the repairs look much better than they did untouched.

Hey mods, where is that "ignore" button?

It can be done, if you cut off and kept the ends of the 3 wire connections on the back out of the doner. The connectors are a different size (old had 10 pin, newer have 12), and are in a different layout as to which wire is in which connector. So, if you have the connectors, and feel like splicing a bunch of wires, have fun The newer guage pod I bought is still laying here. Never got up the urge to start messing with spahgetti.

AC coils You can get lift 1.5" or 3" , or stock new, and slap em in. Or, you can get a set of the JGC coils, about the cheapest route. I paid $10 for a set from the local Junk yard. You just have to cut the "pigtail" off the top of them.

Might have been a cheap fix for rusted out hangers

There must be a curse on making aftermarket parts for Nissans. That is about the 5th or 6th person that tried to start making things and had crap get in the way. Hope he can pull through WW3.

Well, the "caulk" type, as you call it, is mostly for use as a draft stop in tight spots around doors/windows or wall penitrations like plumbing or electric. Though I have seen it also used to fix the foam padding in a car seat. It's not the best for use as weather (water) seal, or pest seal since it isn't solid. The other type I think you are describing is kinda like spray on rubberized undercoating for cars. It is used on thin metal appliances and such by manufacturers to keep them from sounding tinny and cheap, one common use is on stainless kitchen sinks. Never used the stuff, but if it IS like the undercoating spray, it'll just make a mess and stick to everything.

Well, I can get into mine in about 30 seconds, with just a coat hanger. If I had electric locks probably 5 seconds. FYI, the top back corner of the front doors are flexy .

:contract: If your's is bad, might as well get ready for a timing belt at the same time .

no teeth? (sorry, had to)

Well, you didn't specify if you were trying to use it like dynomat, or in what way you would be planning to use it. Like I said, used in place of dynomat, no, completely different animal. Sorry for trying to answer your question.

There is a guy on AC that has an orange one about that color.

:o :oops: You need your head examined

You won't find many on a PATHFINDER site, might try an all Nissan site -thnkboutit-

I have the same problem, (been leaking about a year now) I think I'm going to pull the assembly and take it to a hydraulic repair place and have them replace the hose part.