GrimGreg

The TBI on an old Cheby 4.3 is similar to ours with the dual injectors. Not sure on the bore size though.

Basically, it's just a wiireless "antenna".

14-22ftlbs

Could also be the compression rod if in the front. But, like Simon says, 2" is a big difference.

PM Thunderbox, he might take that swap on for you if you locate all the parts.....

Cool, so the brake issue was just because of the missalignment caused by loose bearings?

No. Basically you can yank the hub and the shaft and still drive it just fine. The shaft is just used for when you engage 4wd and the hub is just to engage/disengage the shaft to the spindle.

Check your oil for water and your anti-freeze for oil. Might have blown a gasket when it got hot.

Friends with straps or winches might be nice to have also.....

Not sure about WARNs, but with stock and MM manual hubs you move the snap ring to the outer groove on the shaft. As for the brakes, I have no clue what could cause nothing forward and working in reverse.

My basket (Coleman) has a built in fairing on it held on with 3 bolts. I pulled the outer 2 bolts out and drilled the holes larger to mount my lights.

Damn JJ, that's one way to clearance the fenders .

My best guess (because I have had both of these noises) is; either your gas tank filler tube braket has a loose bolt and the bracket is making noise against the bolt threads(kind of a ratcheting/ clinking sound). Or you have a bad bushing in your rear sway bar (usually a clunking or pop sound).

If you plan to refinish the dash, then it doesn't really matter what you use; body filler, 5min epoxy, etc. If you want a quick fix to sell it, just buy one of the kits they sell at the parts store for vinyl repair.

Drilled a hole, used a gromet and silicone. Hasn't leaked yet, almost 2 years later.

IIRC th ones sold for Civics were pretty close with a little trimming.

Yep, like Slick eluded to, the T-case shifter has a rubber boot under the leather one. If it is torn or ripped it can let all the heat in. BTW, if your floor under the pedals gets hot, double check you aren't burning.

Xterras are bastard children of our WD Pathys.

I always thought a gathering at a place like Disney, OK (not Walt's place) would be good since it is so centrally located in the US. BTW, not making it back to the left coast anytime soon, probably 2012 will be my next venture out there.

Yeah, he sold his "kit" and the guy that bought it trashed the setup on his first run offroad. The upper CO mount bent and caused the CO to bend also. That setup basically just replaced the shock with the CO, but readjusted the mount on the LCA a tad. Going to the UCA would probably be a better way, though it would be tight space up there.

Why ask if you don't want an answer?

Better than the original consoles that had none.

Here, use this: http://www.izook.com/gearcalc.htm It will calculate what gearing you need based on tire size.

I left mine in, soaked the hell out of it, loosened the clamp bolts and let it slide out where it needed to. It was stubburn, but I just tapped the joints lightly and it moved, the stress on it made it move. Saved me the time and headache of removing it then trying to re-align the splines putting it back.

The company I used to work for had a Clarke and a Hobart in tha back room, and a bunch of Lincolns everywhere and one Miller on the floor. The welders in the back room were broke, and never fixed in the 5 years I was there. About as close as I ever got to a Clarke.