GrimGreg

The timing marks on our engines are crap. My cam marks were half a tooth off on both sides and there wasn't a crank mark at all (made my own).

Now those and the bulbs inside the switches ARE hard to find. I know you can get the switch bulbs at Radio Shack, not sure on the idiot ones. (I usually pocket a bunch anytime I am in a J-yard .)

Yeah, Pathfinder is 90% the same as a 4x4 truck (at least till 95). Same engines, same trannys, etc.

BS, they are very common. BTW, another way to go is to use "gel"s for stage style lighting to tint the color.

Yeah with an open (or REALLY REALLY worn LSD) it will spin the other wheel the opposite direction.

Boring out a MAF for one of our engines, that is absurd.

I met him once, and do not trust him one bit. I also have no faith in his abilty. I'm a big fan of custom fab, but know there is a lot of booty fab out there.

Next to the local yard, a place like Autogator might be able to hook you up.

No he was talking about an adaptor for the MAF, it's an aftermarket only part. This one would probably work: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-97-NISSA...9QQcmdZViewItem I have heard of a few people use those. I used one made by Spectre Performance for mine, they also make intake tube parts so you can make a custom Pop-charger style intake.

Pre-running Pathy?

What would you lift the body off of? The R50 is a unibody, ie no frame, or as some seem to believe it is "intigrated" into the body. Body lifts work by lifting the body off of the frame, see the problem?

Well, a broken timing belt on our trucks usually will mean the replacement of at least a few valves, if not the heads or even engine. We have an interfearance engine; the valves and pistons play in the same playground, if the bell doesn't ring then they are both at recess at the same time and hurt each other.

Well, sounds like you jumped into a mod without knowing what it would REALLY do for you. Guess it's time to go looking for a replcement MAF chamber.

I deffinately would NOT use that.

Well, you can fit up to a 31 on a stock truck. Depending on how much sag there is in your springs and tortion bars they might rub a little bit. When I went to a 31 I also changed wheels, those wheels sat out further so I rubbed from that. I personally think our trucks are about perfect with 31s, I have wheeled with some people and taken the same lines over the same obsticles that they did with their 6" of lift and 33s and they break. With the 31s your axel gears are still OK, 32s and 33s seem to dog our trucks without regearing. The 32s and 33s also add a lot more mass onto the end of the spindle that your steering has to try and move. What will tend to bust things is trying to use too much skinny pedal especially in low gear, which is offten needed to get those larger tires moving on a trail. Even with aftermarket steering I have seen low gear toe in the front tires on trucks pretty bad. I have only gone through 1 center link and 1 idler arm shaft in 6 years of recreational trail riding (about every other month). I usually hit the moderate-difficult types of trails. I still have stock components, though I have added a steering stabilizer and an idler arm brace.

If you need 27 spline I have a set of Mile Markers I'd sell for $60. practically new, installed for a week and never "used".

I haven't heard either way on those in particular, but the regular Grabbers are junk.

When was the last time you saw a T-case in a 2wd?

Sounds like keeping it stock will be just fine for you.

Wouldn't be the back glass, no switch on that latch. For the hatch switch, he is making adjustments to the catch side on the truck. I gave up and unplugged the wire from the switch in the latch.

One major difference that I notice between the 2 tire types is the size of rocks that get stuck in them.

Paid $2.34 yesterday at Kroger

I think it depends on the tire make and/or your driving habits, but the tread wear and gas mileage thing is BS. I consistantly get BETTER mileage with my BFG MTs than my BFG ATs and they have about 60k on them with about 1/3 tread left. They are noisier though, that is true.

Be sure to somehow smoothe out the transition btween the patch ad the edge of the hole on the underside. If you patch from the top and leave gaps below, you'll just have he same problem all over again. Iused self tapping screws in place of rivits on some and welded others when I fixed my 88. If you want, pics are here: http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y143/grim...8%20Pathfinder/

I agree. It isn't a hard job or very time consuming (have done it 3 times, about 3hrs each time). As long as you have all the parts and tools you will need all ready to go before you start, it should go smooth. It helps a lot to have a second set of hands also. The hardest parts are usually the harmonic balancer and the main nut on the crank, the main reason you pull the radiator is to easy the ability to get tools on those parts.