GrimGreg

Time to go fishing

When I changed mine last year they all looked like that, but had twice the gap they should have had (no wonder I had burn marks on my cap).

FYI those are the same part. So cleaning it will probably be useless for your issues. You did have a tune-up done, what all parts were replaced?

I saw either a Pathy or Hardbody that had done just that. They drilled holes in the plastic above the glove box for their gauges so they sat in the dash. As for the locksmith thing, dunno, if you get a new lock the smithy should be able to set it to work with your key. As for security, the lock is there more to keep the honest, honest. If anyone really wants in something, they'll find a way.

First for the both of us.

I have one, it's great. The box is tiny and the functions are easy to use because they are all right there with the pip.

I'd say stick with Cobra or Uniden for CB brand. You can usually find a good used one for well under $100.

You probably either didn't unlock it or have something stuck in the latch. If you need to get more wiggle room, you can pull the hinge pins out at the bottom of the box, they are L shaped and just clip in.

IIRC he's 4banger. The Hardbody guys do it with their 4 cylinders though.

BTW, if you aren't overly brand loyal for one of these, check out junkyards for old 4Runners. I got one out of an early model and it matched up very well.

No one asked for nor did I say cheep.

I have one someplace I'll look for it. As for the indicator light, most just have a 4wd one, and nothing for 2wd.

This isn't the WD-21 model, but it's cooler and still Nissan:

The only problem I have seen is they are made for the right hand drive dash, so they are a little off on a left hand drive dash, but still look good.

She depriving you?

Did they list the $1400 repairs they thought you needed? If your tires are like that, then aftermarket UCAs will only make them worse. They are made to offset the BJ out a little. If your CL is shot, it's too late for a stabilizer to help. If you get one, wait for the new CL to install it. With the BJs, no way for us to tell if they are good or bad. To check them, jack both front wheels off the ground, then grab the top and bottom of each tire and wiggle it hard. If it moves in or out at the top or bottom more than like 1/4"-3/8" then you probably have bad BJs.

The bolt pattern should be the same, otherwise I'm not sure of fit.

If not that then probably a clogged fuel filter.

I thought that the tires did more like this / \ after cranking the T-bars? If his are like this \ / then he might have some BJ issues or something.

I'll say the same thing I did in your other crybaby for no reason post. If you want cheap gears buy Dana or Ford axels. I don't doubt that they would consider making gears for us, but think your price expectations are a joke. Also, only making them for a H233b would limit sales to SAS and 2wd peeps. Also given that most people I know doing a SAS are going to 5.13s that would limit the quantity more. Not to mention, if they made a matched set for a r200, it at least could be sold to a broader market given the other vehicles that use that diff type. R&D isn't cheap, smaller the production run, more overhead to recoupe, why the ones that are available aren't cheap.

IIRC the gears they sell are manufactured in Japan. You want cheap gears buy a Dana or Ford axel.

Nothing too major, the column cover is held together by 4 main screws and then 2 on the sides by the openings for the wiper and the turn signal arms. all 6 go from the bottom up. Then 2 screws hold the switch to the column.

Yeah, for $800 you can get one that deosn't need rebuilt, saftey inspected and a rebuilt title. Though if you wanted to SAS one, it might be a good start, but not for that much $$$.

Yeah, 9 times out of 10 if you have an odd single headlight issue it is caused by our switches. Clean the contacts.

I got new studs with mine, but no new nuts or washers. Didn't need them anyway, I went e-fan and just bolted my pully on.