GrimGreg

If the balance is OK, then the rim(s) could be bent.

Slop can be worn linkage, or a bad steering box. As for cranking the bars, it might make the front feel a little more springy, and without an alignment afterward, the steering will be all screwy (besides the tire wear issue).

Sliders > step bars. Thicker material that actually protects the body rather than folding up into it. Even if you never plan to offroad the vehicle, the slider will be like a t-bone protection bumper. Especially if it is welded to the frame.

Basically they are the same and interchangeable between all years from the b-pillar forward. The issue, as you mentioned, is a cosmetic difference. The fenders and doors didn't change until 98 but even then the ones on the Frontier will still bolt onto an 87-94 Pathfinder. A lot of the pickups did have power controls, but not for 4 windows. Also the early power window switches were more basic, and not molded into the armrest.

When you checked the vacuum hose, did you remove it to check that the end wasn't cracked? That was the issue on mine, and you couldn't see the cracks because the nipple on the actuator is recessed.

I grab any of the window trims off junkyard Pathys when they are good. I've had to replace mine about every 8 years. As for the interior, I redid a lot of my 88 Pathfinder's interior. I used TSP and cleaned the plastic parts, then used a plastic primer and paint on them. For the dash (it didn't have any cracks) I just used a vinyl paint. My door panels and headliner I recovered with black vinyl from the clearance rack at Jo Ann Fabrics. You can buy fabric/carpet cleaners at the parts store that do pretty good, my Frontier had all kinds of stains on the seats and floor and I got them all out with about an hour scrubbing. Here is a pic of my 88 test fitting the door panel and right after the dash paint. (The wrinkles were fixed befor final install).

I think Nissan tried to shy away from true offroad appeal, even with the Xterra. There is plenty of room to do hidden winches in most of the models after 2000, but aftermarket winch bumpers are really the way to go.

Yeah, the easiest way to tell is the headrests. Everything else was an option and could be on an XE.

That actually sounds typical for the Maxima swapped alts. Mine will sometimes not charge well at idle either. I think Simon or someone else had it do it on theirs as well. I think it might be a pulley size issue.

Replaced the PCV valve and it got a little better. Adjusted the idle screw to get it where it should be after that.

If you cut it, the rest of it will still be stuck in place and still need to be removed.

Looks like Lee's setup (the L from L&P).

Keep a roll of duck tape around, put yer drink in it.

Never had an issue myself (I guess yet...) with the MAF ground. I know it is a known common issue, and what the fix is. This weekend looks like it might be nice enough to allow me to tear into it and check my sensors.

I tried washers, adjusting the latch and wrapping tape on the catch and still had the lights come on around corners. I just unplugged the hatch switch. If I need light when I open the hatch, I'll just turn it on by hand. As for the door switches, those are easy "pocket parts" at the j-yard. Keep those working, the floor lights don't have a separate switch and will kill a battery if left on.

I had to pull the hose off the PCV valve to get to one of the IACV screws. I hit it with some intake cleaner while the hose was off, but didn't test if it was stuck. And I had the intake off to clean the TB. I'm running a custom straight pipe intake with the vacuum lines tapped into it. The pipe and joiner clamp areas were in good shape. I'll probably tear into it more this weekend.

What did you mess around with?

I made a 3/16" thick steel t-case skid for my 93 a long time ago. i just templated off the stocker.

Well, my next plan was to start checking sensors with my multi-meter. I (surprisingly) do not have the FSM.

Tonight I pulled off the intake and IACV and cleaned the TB and IACV. Started it up and it runs the same. Although one thing I forgot about was that it is only on the hot idle that the rpms are low. When it is first started it runs at 1100 RPM on cold idle.

The oil pan, y-pipe and (if auto) tranny pan are the major things that need protection. Everything else is stout enough to handle a little abuse. I used cutting boards on my 88 and they worked well. Bought some for my 93 but never installed them. They are better than metal because they'll slide on rocks rather than catch, and they are light weight too.

Yeah, first thing I checked was the vacuum lines, and I would assume that the timing is good since it ran smooth at 300 RPM. Going to clean up the intake and check my sensors when I get the time.

My 93 wants to idle at about 300-500 rpm, it idles smooth at that speed, but it won't keep the alt charging enough to idle very long. I haven't done much searching yet, but my best 2 guesses are either an IACV or TPS issue. Any other suggestions on what to look at for a cause? For the moment I just put a spacer in the stop bar on the throttle so it stays open more and keeps the idle up around 1200.

I have an issue, maybe twice a year, if that, where you can't push the button in. My "shift lock" has been broken since I had to have my selector repalced. It ussually will work after a few minutes of fiddling with it, but it is annoying when it does happen.

Last time I looked, dealer was the only place to get them.