GrimGreg

Mine has that little pad, it is threaded to adjust it for fitment. Never got anything stuck in there, but caught the driver's side on a tree and yanked it off once. The powder coat is kinda rubbery on mine also, I actually left marks in it from my CB antenna mount.

Bad idea, the centering post on our seats isn't tall enough, so the spring can pop off the new seat/spacer. Like has been said, look for V8 JGC springs at the local J-yard (got mine for $20 for the pair), or buy some lift springs from AC. Ef Calmini!!!!

Someone took one out of a 96+ (R50) and made it work in their WD-21. IIRC they had to cut out the plastic panels to mount the catches at the rear, and the mounts by the back of the seats, but they did a good job making it look OE.

Good job as in, the sway bars were not really needed, or huh? I like mine better without, but just me.... Edit to add Bilstein shocks are about the best you can get, pricy, but good!

My 88 doesn't have power mirrors, so I used the switch opening for the control and wired a switch bank up, each one ran through a fuse block I mounted on the inner fender by the battery. As for 12V outlets, I used one of the fuse block spaces and ran a 12g wire back to the rear, it is not switched, so I can use it without a key in the ignition: On my 93, I have a reverse light setup I got from a run as a gift Cool kit, it was made for an Xterra, but all I had to do was tap into the Reverse light wiring to make it work. I patched off the power wire for it running to the rear (unswitched) and ran a socket in the rear (below the end of the flashlight): On the 88 I have since ran a 4 outlet set off the original lighter wiring, that has it's own switch, and have yet to overload the wiring or fuse, even with 3 of the 4 outlets being used (CB, GPS, cell phone charger). No pics of it, but it is mounted to the side of the auto shifter area of the center console.

I think he is looking 94/95 specific.

Hmm, mine were bought new in 2002, they might have changed the design at some point. Mine only bolts to the hatch side of the light.

93 and older have them, 93 they are in the right, earlier models they were in the middle.

There are only 4 speedo gears available from Nissan, 17, 18, 19 & 20 tooth. http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_search_result.php?keywords=[32703M]+\(WD21&cPath=5572_5573_5640_5657

The MAF is the little black box on the "silver" piece above your filter, that has wires sticking out of it. Since your truck starts out smooth, I would rule it out, but a quick check would be when it acts up, try wiggling the wire and see if it smooths back out.

What about making custom shafts using the older outer, and the newer inner? Should be no harder than a boot replacement, if the parts are interchangable right?

Maybe you should get some beadlocks too.

Wishing you kept the original front end now?

Is the motor running? Maybe it is disconnected in the hatch, or stripped?

JB Weld a quarter to the bottom side and bondo fill the top to smooth it out.

Hell, the machine even puts the things that are off in bright red. What kind of idiot read that print out and said the alignment is fine? Of course I know a lot of younger techs who have no idea how to align anything without cam bolts .

The speed sensor gear that goes in the T-case? They are splined right, no glue needed? As for recalibration, IIRC even though it is electric, it can't be adjusted/calibrated for different tire diameters or gear ratios. Reason I say that is because I knew a couple Xterra guys who went with an aftermarket electronic speed sensor that they could adjust after they SASed.

Cool you got it fixed, and it was something simple. Good thing you did fix it, wouldn't have wanted that to completely fail in a panic braking scenario.

And cheaper to check/clean them then buying bulbs only to find out it isn't the bulbs.

Wouldn't be a bad thing in the rust belt, lol.

Switch contacts, search, common issue.

Lack of frame/rigidity maybe?

All it is is a drill guide, they make it sound like magic, but you still have to retap the hole to get the material out that is in the threads.

First time I have heard of that being an issue. I guess it could be if you don't know how to tighten the bolts properly .

Mine did the same thing after my last wheeling trip (but driver's side). I was driving on the beach after and watched the top of my tire wobbling when I hit a bump and coinciding with the noise. Check your ball joints.