GrimGreg

Since my wife's Hardbody died of a t-belt snap (and other unrelated engine issues), first thing I did was change the t-belts on my Pathys when I bought them. Then I knew the interval for the next change, and had no looming worry.

What is scary is that Nunya must drive so bad that even he needs an "O-Sheet" handle on his side!

Yeah, I love driving in the snow! It is the other people that scare me too. Especially when they are blowing past me on the freeway in a 2wd and I'm going as fast as I know I can maintain control if something gave loose.

Option on SEs in the 90s, standard on LEs 94/95.

It goes on the outside of the light, over the black plastic side of the light. Does your's have the adjustable pad on the center of the side hoop? I know originally mine kind of like almost clipped into place over the light (before I bent them up catching them on trees).

I've had mine at some pretty extreme angles and haven't had any troubles.

Clutches are probably worn out in it then.

This is what mine looks like, Manik brand:

Whan I installed MMs I reused my stock bolts and stock snap ring on the CV. I wouldn't bother paying someone, it takes like 10min per hub to swap. If you were local I'd swap em for you for a beer per hub !

I think I remember someone saying 280 deg.

Unless it was an import with a 4cyl, it has the H233b.

Yeah, it could be worn out, or have the wrong oil mix in it. Or, you could have just not got it to a lockup situation, sometimes a light pull on the parking brake while giving it gas will help it lockup.

I have courtesy lights on my van and hate them, I can't tell if I left the lights on or if it is courtesy mode .

I refer to them all the time, you realize they sell the parts too? lol

Hub replacement is simple, 6 bolts and a snap ring. Like Adam said, you can find hubs from about $150-$300 depending on brand and where you get them. As for lubing the autos, they don't like much grease, they actually work worse with to much, just a light coating on the parts is all you need.

Be sure to check the booster while you have the MC out of it, make sure that you clean and brake fluid from it, or it will rust and fail quickly also.

Could be, I've had my 4hi not engage fully and grind a bit.

Yeah, find the point it is rubbing and try bending it away a little at that point.

Another thing just came to mind, check the rag joint in the engine bay by the firewall, make sure it isn't worn out, along with the little U-joint just before the steering box. neither is a common wear spot, but if they get worn they could cause slop like that.

Most all antifreezes have anti rust addatives in them. As for prolonging the life of it, you'll have to do the waterpump and timing belt before it goes bad I'm sure .

The floor rot is typical. You can either just cut the rot back to good metal and then slap some sheet metal over the hole (most people do some sort of repair like this). Or you can order factory stamped floor pans and replace the rusted ones (lots of cutting and welding involved there). Since you have such easy access to it at the moment I would patch it from the outside.

So none of the linkage is moving while in that free play area? If not, then the problem is in the steering box. If the linkage does move, then the center link is probably bad.

Not sure, but stock, the inner lights were Hellas.

Here are sumguy67's pics of his chop http://picasaweb.google.com/106952140359333266362/TruckMods#