GrimGreg

Good job as in, the sway bars were not really needed, or huh? I like mine better without, but just me.... Edit to add Bilstein shocks are about the best you can get, pricy, but good!

My 88 doesn't have power mirrors, so I used the switch opening for the control and wired a switch bank up, each one ran through a fuse block I mounted on the inner fender by the battery. As for 12V outlets, I used one of the fuse block spaces and ran a 12g wire back to the rear, it is not switched, so I can use it without a key in the ignition: On my 93, I have a reverse light setup I got from a run as a gift Cool kit, it was made for an Xterra, but all I had to do was tap into the Reverse light wiring to make it work. I patched off the power wire for it running to the rear (unswitched) and ran a socket in the rear (below the end of the flashlight): On the 88 I have since ran a 4 outlet set off the original lighter wiring, that has it's own switch, and have yet to overload the wiring or fuse, even with 3 of the 4 outlets being used (CB, GPS, cell phone charger). No pics of it, but it is mounted to the side of the auto shifter area of the center console.

Thanks, I DLed the editor too, might have to make some customs!

I think he is looking 94/95 specific.

Same block, new heads, I'd still classify it as a VG series .

Where did you DL the WD from? I want one for my Nuvi 250W!!!!

Hmm, mine were bought new in 2002, they might have changed the design at some point. Mine only bolts to the hatch side of the light.

They didn't change the basic frame from the D-21 when they made the D-22, so there was no real frame redesign either way.

93 and older have them, 93 they are in the right, earlier models they were in the middle.

Maximas had DOHC from about 90 on. Pretty sure they used it in the I30s too.

If you insist on plasma, that should give you a straighter line.

Then you'll probably be even worse with plasma .

There are only 4 speedo gears available from Nissan, 17, 18, 19 & 20 tooth. http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_search_result.php?keywords=[32703M]+\(WD21&cPath=5572_5573_5640_5657

The MAF is the little black box on the "silver" piece above your filter, that has wires sticking out of it. Since your truck starts out smooth, I would rule it out, but a quick check would be when it acts up, try wiggling the wire and see if it smooths back out.

Sometimes it is easier to just cut it smooth and straight with a disk, then cutting it quick with the plasma cuter and having to clean up the little waves with a grinder.

That was my 88, the frame is still solid on it...

Cloudy here, missed it

What about making custom shafts using the older outer, and the newer inner? Should be no harder than a boot replacement, if the parts are interchangable right?

Maybe you should get some beadlocks too.

Wishing you kept the original front end now?

Nah, they were just covered in dust. Only rusty tools I have are a couple cheap tools I left out in the rain one time....when I lived in Cali.

Is the motor running? Maybe it is disconnected in the hatch, or stripped?

Hell, I cut the rust holes out under the seats of my 93 with aviation snips. It is not thick stuff there.

JB Weld a quarter to the bottom side and bondo fill the top to smooth it out.

Just be carefull with the cuts, make sure you won't burn through anything you want to keep.