GrimGreg

It's tricky stuff. If they are just in the clear coat and won't buff out, then a light wet sanding with like 600 paper or less would be the next step. If you get as far as sanding anything, you'll probably want to rehit the clear coat with new (then sand and buff to make it blend). If you are down to, or past the color coat then you will want to sand it smooth and rehit it with color then clear.

Not enough of a difference that I noticed.

What do you call this post?

Why it is good to disconnect the battery overnight after a mod, it kills the ECU memory so it resets to "learn mode". Not resetting the ECU it tries to run at the settings it had peviously learned and will take a little longer to adjust and relearn.

Yeah, the part(s) you are missing are probably still on the vehicle they pulled those off of, they are held onto the CV stub with a snap ring.

Put it in the engine bay.

Don't buy a package, if you want lift coils, get the 4x4parts, if you want UCAs get Rough Country, and if you want torsion bars get Sway Aways.

Sounds like the typical custom buster. I know some other people that work it like that.

Wouldn't the CFM change with the RPM?

If you can see the bottom of the box, then you are also missing the absorbent pad in the bottom.

It is a trouble light, it comes on when the tranny is hot or when the tranny ECU has a code stored AFAIK.

But it is such a nice sucking growl sound.

I cut mine just below the bolt between the inner and outer fender on the front, no issues. It does clear up a good bit of tire clearance.

So, you guys both used full size pickup shock kits, did you do that based on the overall extention length and those were the only air shock available in that size?

That is pretty much where I cut mine in that pic. I just used aviation shears, it's all sheet metal.

Sure can:

Only mod needed for the JGC springs is to the springs, cut the "pig tail" off. Our springs are full diameter the whole way, the Jeep spring make a bend in at the one end, trim it off right at the bend and your done.

Best I got was 24mpg, between here and Washington D.C., it was right after I changed plugs and swapped to a cone filter. (I even had my roof rack on it at the time!) You have to figure, once you get to cruising speed and the TC locks in, it's a very smooth power transition.

AH! I knew it was one way or the other.

I think only the disc brake axels had the thrust blocks, even then, many with discs are running lockrites.

Same here but with an auto (and MTs).

I swaped to headers when I fixed my studs.

I used red, so it would match the truck.

Yeah, driven from the wheels spinning.

Try 4x4parts.com they are in Florida and can get Mile Marker, WARN and I think they can even get the OEM Nissan manuals.