GrimGreg

Did you get a whole new ECU, or actually replace just the resistor in your old one?

Yep, best to replace the whole assembly, part # for your truck is 17040-WD21001 http://www.courtesyparts.com/17010y-pump-assy-fuel-pathfinder-wd21-08/1987-08/1989-vg30i-07/1986-08/1987-vg30i-p-539988.html?cPath=5572_5573_5590_5595& If you do just want a new cap piece with the wire tail; http://www.courtesyparts.com/25060-gauge-assy-unitfuel-tank-pathfinder-wd21-07/1986-08/1987-w/2d-2wd4wd-cyl-07/1986-08/1987-w/2dv/2d-4wd-p-540051.html?cPath=5572_5573_5590_5595& Most vehicles you HAVE to buy the entire assembly.

My wife's VW doesn't like to restart when it is hot either, it will start, but run really rough for a couple minutes unless you rev it to 1500rpm for a min before driving.

How? I have no bumps, fender flares and aftermarket wheels that set my tires out further and I don't rub anything?

Get one of these: http://www.staunproducts.com/bodybuddy.php It fits right in the frame side holes and works really well. I flush mine after every offroad trip. I also use a garden fan style sprinkler under the truck to wash off the underbody.

Yeah, but I don't feel like undoing a T-bar.... I thought I saw MY1PATH post something about ride height, is that what you are thinking of?

You won't change the travel with a front lift, so the shock length stays the same. All a front lift does is change the ride height, the range of travel stays the same.

Does anyone know the total travel distance our WD21s have in the front end? Actually the amount of travel at the bumpstops would probably be the actual measurement I need....?

If it is the rear, you don't need the bump stops, if it is the front lower, just install a homemade spacer block in there.

Can't you Amish get along?

You will probably need to replace the rear shocks again, if you plan to lift it, the rear shocks will be to short. How "Ultimate" are you thinking? Do you want something good all around, or something for extreme crawling or mudding? If you want extreme, start reading through the SAS threads. If you want good all around, here is my suggestion; Get about 2" lift coils in the rear, and crank up the torsion bars in front, get a good set of 31" MT tires, if you don't have LSD in the rear, get a mechanical locker, upgrade the steering (search the forums), get a winch bumper and winch, make some skid plates under the tranny and oil pan, and get a set of sliders on. Setup like that, you will be able to go just about anywhere without much if any damage, and be able to get out IF you get stuck. I've followed "built rigs" and made it through some spots much easier than they did, only thing I haven't done on my list is the winch, and locker but they are in my plans.

If you have an auto, the lines to the cooler will also be in the way, for mine we had to undo the bracket on them and bend them slightly to get enough clearance. It will slide out to the front it just takes a little twisting and turning to get it through. No need to undo motor mounts or any BS like that.

Is your tension rod worn and moving?

Once you alter it, doubt they would take it as a return.

The component has a 5.25, but what are the specs for the tweeter? A lot of 2 ways aren't able to hit the highs well. Though with a good set of 2 or 3 ways, there is no need for a sub.

See what you get for getting a curvy Civic looking dash? Square FTW!

Check for nicks in the plug and coil wire insulation, and make sure the connections are good. Check that the plastic casing on the coil isn't cracked (what was wrong with mine when it acted like your's is).

I'm not a fan of crappy little commuters either, but it sounds like what you need. My wife and I talked about getting her a Leaf for a work vehicle, and she only works 5 minutes from home.

You can even run them better/further at the front with by the foot line. I know I don't like the flex being so close to my headers. At least Nissan didn't get stupid and run them into the wheel well until the Xterra/Frontier came along.

Save your $$$ for a Leaf and use it for nothing but the commute, that is all they will be good for anyway. Then you save miles on both your other Nissans.

I've thought about pins just to eliminate the latch.

One tip for hand threading in tight spots, or places you can't reach (like between the plenum) is to stick a piece of gas or vac line on it and use that to get it started.

Though he would have to pay international shipping from him.

I just left mine, didn't know if it would start if I just removed it, the non-factory alarms I have had in the past would basically disable the car if the control box was disconnected.

The hypochondriac strikes again!