GrimGreg

Looks like the adapter I used too. For the support I cut bent and drilled a piece of aluminum bar stock. I also bought the parts to remove the accordian pipe. It is just a 6" tube that I cut and plumbed for the vac lines.

The kit contains a bar of flat stock that is drilled out to mount onto 2 of the idler arm bolts at the frame, and hang down with a hole to mount the shock. On the centerlink, you have to remove the stock mount fins, then the mount is a L shape with a hole for the shock end and 4 holes to accept the 2 U-bolts that clamp it onto the centerlink.

I wired mine right off the battery, through an inline fuse. I figured most of the time I would be back there using it, the truck would be off, so I didn't want it on a switched source.

He ment the grill, he trimmed the Hardbody grill to fit around the sealed beams.

No, but you could swap the headlights too.

Not to mention a completion date.

Sway bar end links changed?

What does look nice is the old grill with a newer (94-97) Hardbody hood, just did that on my 88. The Hardbody hood doesn't have the 3 vents, nor the 2 flutes, it has more dimension and bumps up in the middle, not to mention the NISSAN badge on the hood.

I miss the TJM aluminums.

Don't let the goodies (ARB, etc) go with the truck.

Dunno, he also had the Super Charger on it.... so who knows what the gears did by themselves.

Yeah, the 87-89 grill is much better than the 90+ grills. I almost nabbed one for my 93, but was short on funds at the time and left it in the yard.

IIRC the wire was small and prone to breaking. So rather than run a whole new harness wire, they made that to add in a better ground lead. Plug & Play > than wire tracing/splicing.

They should fit at stock height, but might rub the frame or the rear edge of the front fender when turning depending on the wheel used.

L&P were making adjustable timing gears back in the day. Not sure if they ever sold any, but Lee's Pathy had them.

Yeah, Goo-Gone or Goof-Off would probably work well on it without damaging the defroster.

Not as easy as some since we VG30E peeps prety much have to custom make our "kits", unlike the later model peeps that can buy off the shelf.

You are looking at the wrong end, that end goes to the TB, the end with the bolt holes is the filter side. There are adaptors for cone filters, or some have taken the metal ring that is on the inside of the airbox and bolted it back on sans airbox and clamped a filter directly to it.

14.50? I wouldn't go that wide unless you have upgraded steering components, or SAS.

If you go custom, look around here and other sites, I have seen some design plans posted now and then. Or, get some cardboard and masking tape and make one out of that, then take it to the shop and they will have a pattern to work off of.

If he got "the wincher", it is made from template cut pieces he (Kyle/KMA) has cut for him. Before he went psycho on NOAS I was going to buy one cheap because he had enough extra parts laying around to throw one together. The plate bumpers he makes are good (never heard bad) and stout, the post runner you got is a one off, he custom makes those completely with each order.

It is strong enough (running AC on both mine), but for the cost+shipping across the pond, it might be cheaper and easier to scratch fab one.

I was going to suggest coil, that is how mine ran when the case cracked on it causing it to arc out the side rather than through the coil wire. Check that the plastic casing on the coil isn't cracked anywhere.

Wet wiring at the MAF or other sensors, wet coils or wires can cause poor running.

About the only way to make them work "easily" would be to custom make some CVs, swapping pre 90 outers onto your's. Another option would be to yank the entire CVs and the mounting flanges on the diff of a pre 90 (they changed from 3 sets of 2 bolts to 5 single bolts) and swap them in. You "might" be able to get the inner spline piece for a 28 spline at the dealer, not sure if you can order just that part, but they did make the manuals for 28 splines too.