GrimGreg

I tell you what, if I ever rode on a trail with Tex, I would ride on the roof!!! (So I can stay dry! )

Scratch that (just went out), it's in the same location, and even a larger unit to boot. That is a pretty grill, I saw some nice ones available back in the day in the "Mini-Truckin" mags.

Tell me about it, I have a pair of 80 PRO XTs, they are probably worth as much as my truck .

So in addition to it "popping up" after N you pull it up even further? As for the floor boot, yeah, mine is shot and I have never seen one in a wreck that was good. I went Red Green on mine and just covered the space with duck tape the leather upper boot covers it.

I think my 88's is behind the radiator support rather than in front, my 93's is in front like yours. My 88 also had the R12 system, so the placement might have changed with the swap to R134 systems. (I'll double check this on my next trip out for a smoke.)

If you beat it on the trail, get an "upgraded" centerlink, and you will be fine with normal (Nissan, Napa, etc.) parts for the rest. If you never leave the pavement, just get normal for the centerlink too.

Pretty sure my XE seats have them.

Someone else built a "cover" like that to run a snorkel off of, and he said it was to restrictive or something causing it to not run well so he removed it.

Do you air down from the driver's seat?

I wasn't thinking of it mathematically, I was thinking of it as the amount power output from the engine vs larger wheels/tires/rolling resistance. I've rode in a Hardbody on 35s that wasn't regeared, and it was running around 4200 on the freeway.

If there is any crud in the caliper when you push the pistons in, you'll force it back into the brake line, why you open the bleeder. I always put new fluid in when I do brakes anyway and bleed out all the old fluid.

I got the stuff at Pep Boys, I was kinda shocked how cheap it was, why I bought it.

I would install the new belt and then do a compression test on it (before assembling everything else back), the compression test will show if any of the valves are bent and "leaking". Then if you find a low compression cylinder, you know which head needs to come off, if at all. You might have gotten lucky and it broke with the valves in just the right spot to not make contact, but I would guess you hit at least one with it breaking while running.

Heh, you will probably be at 3500 turning those at 65. They should fit with some minor fender trim up front.

You also got the 4dr (crew cab) Hardbody trucks, bastards!

Most manuals had 4.3, so it should be better at highway speed on 4.6. BTW, my 88 auto has 4.3, you might wanna double check.

Had to drill 2 holes and fill 2 holes.

It wasn't self stick, I used spray adhesive to stick it in place. I think it is actually sold to replace the under hood insulation mat.

I'm pretty sure I used this one: http://www.spectreperformance.com/#CATALOG.81413 What I used to pumb the tube: http://www.spectreperformance.com/#CATALOG.8711

V6 28, 4cyl 27

Only site I know that would sell is courtesy. For a non-wear part like that, I would be hitting the junk-yard.

The adaptor I got was for a 3" MAF, I tried a 2.5" one and it lined up with the intake tube, but covered the sensor hole. As for the tube, yep, just drilled holes, put gromets in and plugged the hoses in.

I used some stuff I got at the part store on a roll, about 3/4" thick fiberous stuff with the foil back. It was $11 for the roll IIRC. Never noticed much difference in summer (no AC), but winter it kept the heat a little longer after being parked for a bit then getting back in.

Are you sure that it isn't the bearing in the alt squealing and not the belt?

Yeah, when I had mine out before I did this: Just removed it all in prep for cutting the top off.