MrPlow

I don't have a tire carrier, but my 33" spare lays flat in the cargo area just fine and held down with ratchet straps. It is about as big a tire will fit back there; any bigger and the rear hatch wouldn't close. A removable rubber mat keeps the area clean.

I have 16" crager soft rims and 285/75/r16 mud tires the only problem I have is with my particular rim the off-set causes the tires to rub the frame after about a turn and a half of the wheel. Had I got 15" rims (with different offset) there would have been no rubbing but I already had the tires, and didn't want to buy new ones. I hope your wheels work out for you.

Good luck painting. I did mine myself also; it was originally red, but I figured those are everywhere. I went with duplicolor "paint shop" that comes in 32oz cans because I could pick it up at any autozone type store. I liked their grey because it was a metallic and turned out very platinum like. I bought a cheap paint gun from northern tool and went to work. The door jambs were the hardest part I found and I just did them with a similar color rattle can paint. I didn't clear it as mine is a trail rig and I actually like it flat. Any ways take your time masking and be patient and it will look fine. After sanding/masking primer done w/ some rattle can bedliner for the bottom edge

Mine is the same way except my RPM guage slowly just keeps climbing as I drive until it maxes out after about ten minutes; my speedometer works about half the time. When Im offroad my tachometer will sometimes come back, but I guess the only fix new guage cluster.

I have the calmini one along with a custom CL. The calmini one has worked great for me.

I got the Calmini arms and we had to cut a big notch out part of the center plate so that the shock boot would not rub and get squished. I reindexed/cranked my stock torsion bars, so the front end gets a surprising amount of flex.

Unfortunately he is in school and has a job to take care of so he has gotten out of the fab business for a while.

Ok mine is the 31 spline, and I talked to the guy who installed the lockrite but he says he doesn't remember the thrust block being removed or coming w/ the lockrite. It sounds like it needs one, but my mechanic made it sound like a stock one won't fit. I guess I'll talk to him tomorrow and see what is going on.

Hey guys. Recently my rear axle started leaking from the hub area, so I took it to my mechanic to have the bearings/seals looked at. While he was in there he noticed I had a lockrite installed, and he also noticed that the "thrust block" was missing from the differential. He said this was allowing the axle shafts too move excessively from side to side and causing the seals to fail. According to my mechanic, with the lockrite in there a stock thrust block will not work, so my question is does anyone have a lockrite (or similar device) and what did you use for the thrust block in your axle? Or is my guy full of it? Thanks!

Sorry for the thread-jack but Im looking to get a cat-back system and just curious what brand y'all went with. I was look'n here... http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?N=0&VN=4294967085+4294965746+4294967261+4294966159+4294967124&Nr=AND(wpn_tl_name:Engine+%26+Drivetrain,wpn_cat_name:Mufflers+%26+Components,wpn_scat_name:Mufflers,universal:0)&No=0&Npp=10 and it seemed like bosal, walker, ansa, and the "replacement" OE systems seemed like good matches.

I had a KMA on my Frontier before I made it my tow rig; it was an ok bumper but I would not go back to them, they have gone down hill big time. The one on my pathy is custom done by a guy named Richard here in NC. Im sure there are plenty of places there in Cali that can fab one up exactly like you want for probably the same cost as aftermarket. Here some pics for ideas... Note he had to extend my frame horns and add a box tube crossmember to make it work, but it's tough as nails.

Here is where I bought my lockrite from... http://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/nissan-pathfinder-differential-lockers-c-38_222.html As you can see many ARB/expensive options, but the lockrite is only $321. It acts like a spool when going straight ie both wheels get power, but on the street it will allow the outside wheel to turn faster (with some occasional clunking sounds). For the 31 spline axle, I think this is the cheapest option other than permanently welding the rear end.

ditto. I have a Lockrite in the rear of my 95 (h233 31 spline) and it works great, as far as I know ARB is the only option for the front.

Whoever you end up going with, I would replace the steering before you even take it offroad with lift/bigger tires. Mine was shot after half a day of wheelin' at Harlan, KY. I had a friend build me a new CL and install the idler arm brace, and the steering has been tight ever since.

That looks pretty cool. Im moving to Arkansas in July so I'll have to check that out some time. Im not sure if AR is considered Midwest or but the superlift park in Hot Springs, AR is pretty sweet... http://www.orvpark.com/