GrimGreg

Yeah, when was the last time you had the system checked, or recharged?

First I have heard of that anything like that. Only link related issues I know of are bent lowers.

Nice find!

Told you about $90 for a pair . Yeah, unless you are planning to use the J-yard set as a trail spare they aren't worth the hastle. Low miles wouldn't mean anything either, especially in the salt belt, if it has seen even 1 salty road, it'll have some salt stuck up under the bushings destroying things. I replaced mine early in my 88, they were still OK (frame mount was wallowed out but didn't fix that, DOH!) So I kept the old ones for my trail spares.

Ah, mine broke in front of the frame mount and the bolt end went rolling down the road, while the LCA end was hanging down about 6" below where it should have been (got a pic somewhere).

You can test the looseness of it with the top cover off. Grab it half way between the 2 cams and twist it, if you can twist it past 90° then it is too loose.

His main point is to debunk the HP gain thing. Well, if someone was claiming 17hp gain, I think I would be skeptical also. His other point is that it isn't any more efficient either.Yet he is making efficiency claims he can't even back up. He says himself he has no idea the CFM of the stock fan. And yes, water crossings are probably a rarity for an RX7. Being able to turn the fan off and keep it from flinging water everywhere and or breaking fan blades off is very nice.

Well, synthetic is better, but more expensive. Basically if your engine doesn't burn or leak oil synthetic is the way to go. Otherwise use a blend. As for your rusted bits, they are your auto-locking hubs,you can clean those up. Seriously, if the rust is the only problem, clean them up. If you REALLY want to replace them, you might look into getting some manual hubs.

Smash a window and give it a reason to be going off. (Complete joke BTW (disclaimer for the stuck-up types around here))

I highly doubt that. When mine broke you could tell there was something very wrong; first I heard the pop, then the front kinda sagged and the steering felt way off, hit a bump and it felt like my shock was gone because it was kinda spongey and bouncey. Mine broke as I was backing out of my driveway, I drove about 100ft and knew there was something wrong.

If it is the compression rod that snapped, you can buy that part at a dealer....at least you still could about a year ago. Though for both sides (all new parts) will be about $90 I think I paid. That was the 2 rods, sleeves and nuts(they are nylocks, 1 time use type), and the 4 bushings and bushing washers.

Cool, you could probably sell those. It looks better than the one AC offers.

If the cap isn't sitting on correctly, any attempt to do any other fix to the timing is futile. If you aren't afraid to get dirty you can probably get a J-yard distributor shaft, new cap and rotor do it yourself and be at about 1/3 the price you were quoted. With it in proper time it should give you more umph than with it off, but don't expect miricles, it is a 4 banger not a 350 V8.

Good to hear. BTW, since you were low on fluid you ought to check your brake shoes and pads. As they wear more fluid stays in the pistons and wheel cylinders, causing the MC to go low. Also, if the fluid was dark, you might want to completely flush and refill the fluid (basically bleed each corner till fresh fluid flows).

It'll move, just need to talk nice to it. (BTW, if you want to replace it it has to move also .)

I know when I am in D my light on the dash will come and go like whatever triggers the light is out of adjustment. Never had my truck not start though. It might be as simple as your starter solenoid is about toast and you bumping the shifter has nothing to do with it at all, just the retrying of the ignition kicks the starter into working. That was how mine acted at first when the starter went. It wouldn't do anything when you turn the key but light up the idiot lights. Turn the key off and back on and it would crank. As for shift-lock, that is a different thing, it keeps the tranny from being moved out of P without the brake pedal being depressed.

Nice, is it all custom or did you use a standard base and build off it?

Usually if there is trouble with the tranny ECU it will go into a safe mode where the tranny will not shift past 2nd gear. As for what it does do, it controls the shift points vs rpm. It is premapped as to what rpm is the most efficient for shifting. It also works with the power/auto settings. When you switch to power it changes to a different shift map. It will also decide when you need to switch to power mode on it's own based on TPS readings.

No, probably just dirty contacts on the light switch. Simple fix: Take off column cover and remove the 2 screws holding the light switch to the column, and disconnect the wires running to it. You'll notice one side has a semi transparent side on it with 4 little pegs, one on each corner. Pop the cover piece off those pegs and you will see 5 little brass colored blades, those are the contacts. If you look at an angle, you can see they have little tabs on the bottom that mate up with other tabs on the switch body. Slide some 100 or so grit sand paper in between those tabs and rub till they aren't black anymore. Test it to make sure you didn't bend a contact out, then reasseble everything.

Not sure where under the dash it connects in, or where at the edge of the windsheild for that matter. If your replacement has the antenna you can actually see it running right up through the center of the windsheild. You can see it on mine in the picture below, the fine brown line (this pic was before I broke my main mast antenna). My 88 does't have the windsheild one, not sure if they even put them in on the older ones, but it gets AM just fine....

Any body lift you find will work on an automatic. Actually the automatics are even easier because they are a cable system rather than direct linkage like a manual.

Mine is a U-Haul special, why?

Well, go test drive it and check that new install (AND BRING US BACK SOME BEER!)

There's no booster, but there was an antenna in the stock windsheilds. My 93 is missing the mast part (long story), but still has the windsheild part, I ONLY get AM.

No denile of that, just if it were mounted more verticle it would have less spillage when changed.