GrimGreg

Dust sheild on the disc brake maybe.

Yeah, all good size wise. Only thing I noticed inside was where the weld came through the joints a little much in a couple places, not huge spots, but if I was going for high performance out of them, those spots would need some smooth out work. If I were to have a complaint, it would be the use of clamps and pipe over pipe connection between the header and crossover. I would much rather have had a standard 3 bolt header flange for that connection on either side.

To dig this up from the grave; I bought the Pace Setters and they bolted on beautifully. Build quality was average, but nothing left unwelded or anything. For $50 more than a new stock crossover/y-pipe I'll take em.

3M also makes a good plastic polish. I think 3M, or someone else also make a complete kit (easily pieced together) for redoing really bad scratched or worn plexy/plastic that contains like 6 grades of sandpaper and 3 grades of polish.

Your connections at the starter end migh be loose or corroded. Or you could have a bad fusable link.

It was the L side, Lee's truck and upgrades. As for what happened, they built it then they went away (Lee left, Phil went MIA). Never got so far as making a kit for sale and the original got parted out IIRC.

Do what I do, just live with it till you are driving down the road and it gets quiet. Then you know whatever was rattling just fell off and will no longer bother you. (Truth to a point, had a rattle and lost it half way up the Smokey Mountains along with a distinct clang as a piece of metal hit the pavement and bounced away.)

You touched anything American made in the last 20 years? They're worse!

Simple fix, but hard to get to the linkage to do it. I just fixed my driver's door this spring.

If it's to play with and beat on why would you worry about cosmetics?

Be carefull thre, or you'll be in my situation. I put a stubby flexible aftermarket mast on mine then decided I wanted to change to a different one. The adapter stud snapped off in the fender mount. That was almost 2 years ago and I'm still mastless. I listen to CDs 90% of the time anyway. I did try to use an easy-out on it back when it all happened and that broke also. Evenually I'll probably drill it all out and re-tap it for a new one.

Wrong, all king kab models have a center console and bucket seats stock.

BMXCARD has those lights on his Pathy, they are a bit brighter. Not sure from the driver's perspective if they light up the road more though.

I'm amazed at the preformance of that Harbor Frieght winch. It held up even though it's a light duty unit.

Yeah, most things from the B pillar forward are interchangeable with a Hardbody body and interior wise. The tail lights are about 2"-3" taller then a Pathfinder tail light.

I just got one not to long ago from a friend. He kept the original lights with the "Nissan" covers though.

You mean unlocked right? I thought the newer models were full time engaged at the hub.

For the bumper, not many options but the winch bumpers, all of which are heavier. TJM, ARB, KMA are the ones I know have made bumpers for the WD-21. I think TJM is no longer making new ones, ARB are almost $800 new now and KMA are kinda made to order.

The one I posted was from VA. Search around the AC board in the R50 section, he went by "infinitiqx4me" IIRC, he sold it about a year and a half ago. As for the hubs, I thought they were the same as the Xterra and Frontier?

All Pathfinders had composite headlights (lens +bulb), but only someearly Hardbodys had them. Most HBs had the little square sealed beams which require a different grill and corner markers. You can swap over the style on your Pathfinder to the sealed beams if you get all the parts and redo the wiring harness. There have been 1 or 2 writeups on doing it on the AC forums.

I've never lifted one without a winch and lights on it, but a guess would be about 50lbs just the bumper.

That is so sad for 2 reasons, 1. He has a nice project he has to give up on, and 2. I don't have the money to buy it.

Yeah, everyone has a few of those just laying around here in the states.

I think that is BS, Calmini is crap. Aside from that, go for it. The major stumbling block for Long travel on our trucks is the CV angles. Even lifted and within normal movement range the CVs will grenade. The only other issue is the T-bars, if you can engineer them out of the picture then it would be great even if it was normal travel.

Same here in Ohio, no motorized unless you use an ATV or dirt bike:wackinit: .