GrimGreg

Maybe use a hammer to adjust the front foot forward or back a little to make it line up better once bolted in.

Looks like your hard line either got hit or rusted. Have to either cut and splice in a new piece or run all new.

Step one; cut off stock connector. Step two; crimp or solder on new connectors on the ends of the wires.

FYI on the rear wiper, if the glass isn't closed it won't work. You might have a bad switch at the latch or need to adjust the latch for the glass. It might not be the motor.

In an emergency, whatever works.

If it is aftermarket tint, double check that they didn't razor cut down the grid and slice every bar but the one.

I forget if Ky;e mounts one in his (KMA) bumpers or not, I know on a few other models he has, and he almost definitely would if asked (for an added cost) add one if not standard. Otherwise like others, I have seen a few custom ones made that are either welded or bolted to the front of the frame.

The guy has had pics on ACs "post your pictures" for at least 2 years.

I think you are on the right track, like you mentioned start with the cap and rotor. Clean your MAF and throttle body, since it never hurts even if it isn't causing the trouble. Given the time since the last tune it might be time for some new plugs or at least an inspection and regap (if you are REALLY cheap, me, if I go through the headache to pull a plug, I'll replace it). See what those things do for you, no fix, start checking things like the engine temp sensor, O2 sensor, testing for bad injectors, etc.

Never thought about that.....

Yeah, you can swap zerks in where the plugs are, I did on mine. They are all 6MM IIRC.

Might need to crank the torsion bars up a little, they can sag with age. If the adjusters are maxed out, search the forums for "re-index".

Where were you a month ago? Anyway, they did make some with 2 for a while, my friend in FL got a set for his 94 HB V6 and it had one on each header.

The A-pilar cover with tweeter grill, or the actual tweeter? The tweeter it's self is nothing pretty to look at.

Psst, he has a 2dr, different rear speaker setup.

Whatever, it comes on when I double tap only.

Not on mine Mr. know it all. I've floored mine many times with no pop into power mode.

Don't make me you. It is probably happening (and I have noticed this while I'm driving) like that because you are ever so slightly letting up on the pedal before mashing it to the floor.

Basically you want to stay in the auto setting unless you are hauling stuff or offroading. The power setting does (as you noticed) shift at higher RPMs which puts less strain on the motor when you have a load, but it also eats gas like mad in the process. BTW, when in auto mode, if you want to pop it into power without hitting the switch just double pump the gas pedal. To switch back out just let off the pedal for a moment.

One other "clunk generator" on our trucks is when a U-joint on the driveline starts going bad.

I made mesh ones for mine and just glued the mesh in place.

Same deal in my trade (carpentry), "Hey kid, go get the board stretcher out of the gang box!"

Yet. I know a couple people with newer ones (01 or newer)also, and they are almost worse than the old ones.

IIRC the older ones were 3 pair of bolts, and the newer ones were 5 single bolts (WD models)

You trying to be funny? Because that's a joke, Hyundais are still crap cars, at least the ones on this side of the border (and last I read you guys get our Lemons).