GrimGreg

Just figuring this out are you? Just like everything else in this world, the media said it, so it has to be true. All those trash auto mags are the reason they don't make things that are worth a damn. A bunch of fat a$$ writers go all crybaby because they felt a bump and next year they make the damn thing a unibody....

BTW, that is complete system capacity. If you only drained the pan you probably only removed 3-4 quarts at the most. The torque converter will hold some along with the lines to the cooler and back that will not drain when you pull the pan/drain plug.

Junkyards are goldmines for us older Pathy owners.

Just follow the wire looms and se if anything is pinched on the frame or something.

Here and there, I had done some repair before that pic, and have had someplaces get worse since that. Salty roads love metal frames....

Wow, just got it and already calling it a "car"

I have a set of $25 Pyle 5x7 speakers in the front, and a set of $125 Eclipse 5x7s in the rear of my 93.....the fronts sound 10 times better.

Most who raise the rear use those 2 holes that are into your hitch to relocate the bumper. You no longer use the stock bolt/bracket dog bone thing, instead just 2 regular nuts and bolts.

Yeah, a bad sensor won't do anything but cause you to run rich or read wrong on the guage. Only 2 things that will cause poor heat from the heater, bad T-stat or clogged heater core/ heater hose.

If it is an auto it could have a leak from the lines to the cooler. It will drip down the inside of the splash guard then spray across everything on the bottom of the truck. Mine are leaking on my 93 from the clamps I used, they are cutting into the soft tubing .

I have never nor now have any urge for SatRad, especially for the same reasons. Why pay some monkey to play music I MIGHT like, when I can throw half my 400 CDs on a jump drive and listen to stuff I DO like.

93s were the last year of cable speedo.

Can be done, has been done. True duals will run like crap, and a set up with a crossover pipe will work but won't help with power at all.

12x1.25

As Kit tried to explain, with the auto hubs, even if you shift into 2wd at the T-case, the hubs remain locked in until you change direction (ie reverse), the manual says 3 feet, but mine will usually let go in about half that. While the hubs are still engaged your front drive axels and driveline is all still turning with your wheels. Since your front wheels are trying to turn all that it causes drag and makes your truck sluggish, drive like that to fast or for to long and you are going to probably cause undue wear to your front drive components, which might have already happened giving you your noise(s).

You didn't miss anything. They talked about how messed up the engine was and how to rebuild it, only to say towards the end that they were swapping in a new one. A 5 second product plug for Crapmini since they are regearing the T-case. Then the "camera crew" breifly explained their gear locker they are going to build in the back cargo area. If they do anything truely inovative with the build, I'll be shocked.

If you want to paint and stripe yourself on the cheap side, get some of the Duplicolor that matches and stick on stripes. For the cowel vents, yes you can get new pins, but dealer only IIRC.

When mine were brand new (Rockcrawlers):

I would use whatever size fits the hole in the factory box the whole way.

What fails is the valve body IIRC. If what I read in the past is correct, Reverse requires higher fluid pressure than any other gear, which is why it fails first. So, normaly your tranny can't make the pressure to switch, and your "tween" trick is probably helping to produce enough to engage the gear would be my best guess.

Can't you swap the throttle connections and springs from one to the other?

Well, I've got a couple hundred thousand miles of no issues....

Yeah, while being the same engine, the exhaust is completely different on a turbo Z. Unless you tunneled out the firewall you couldn't fit the turbo exhaust since it crosses OVER the bell housing at the rear of the engine. Now if you are into trying to make your own custom piping, give it a go if you think you can cram everything in our tiny engine bay.

Unless you are taking them apart regularly, skip the specialty socket. I usually use the punch method, or take a large pair of needle nose pliers. The hardest part is when you do the assembly, getting it to line up so you can screw the lock back on it.

My MTs stick out almost 3" past the fenders on my 88. No problems in any of the places I have been with it; OH, IN, KY, VA, WV, NC. I also have no mud flaps on it, I know some people, some places get hassled about that.