Reshma Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Failed to take get it to move, trying to cut across a small tract of land in my neighborhood, where an electrical transmission tower chain goes through. No traction on any wheel in wet grass. I did get it to back up, though, that was good. Ended up slinging mud everywhere, taking the normal route back home. I swear, never a dull moment in these trucks. Every post you make...im liking you better and better. no homo ov course. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
E_ROCK Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 (edited) Installed my old Pioneer AVIC D3. I had it in my Maxima a couple cars ago and it's been collecting dust ever since. The old Maxima wire harness plugged right in too. I routed the GPS antenna and tapped into pin #26 of the ECM harness above the gas pedal for the VSS wire and everything is working great! It's nice having 90% of my iTunes library again instead of only a couple of burned CDs for my 45 minute rush hour commute. (took this picture before the wires under the console were routed out of view) Also grabbed the 8" sub from my Jeep project and made a 1/4" acrylic mount in rear storage area. Routed the speaker wire to the floor compartment under the cargo mat where the 14 year old Alpine amp (that was also pulled from the corner of a closet) now lives. The mount started out clear. I added some foam tape as a buffer and then pre-drilled the holes before screwing everything together. (the black container with flip lid was removed so more air can move) I thought I had all the power/ground wires and fuses in my old electronics box but I've misplaced them as they weren't with my spare RCA cables. So I had to buy a $28 amp kit from the store I hate the most...Wal-Mart...as Best Buy, Radio Shack, etc. had nothing. Bummer, I thought this system was going to be "free." Edited January 11, 2012 by E_ROCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchizophrenicMC Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Lookin' good with the radio there man. I checked out the FJ thread in Off-topic, and I see this now, and I really wanna do something with the rear cargo area of my Pathfinder. Put some subs in there, or something cool. Hell if I know, yet, but something cool. Every post you make...im liking you better and better. no homo ov course. Of course Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 I bought 3qts. of Mobil 1 75w-90 gear oil. I put two quarts into my t-case. I started to put the 3rd quart in, and I was paying attention for some to dribble out, but it never did. I ended up putting ~2.4qts in the T-case. I guess the t-case is different that the 2.2qt. mark ISN'T when it overflows? I also topped off my front diff with the other .6qt. Just to triple check the compatibility of gl-5 in my t-case, I called Mobil 1. I saw the "call us for questions or..." on the back and I gave them a ring. I got on the phone with a technician who told me that Mobil 1's gear oil is not gl-4 friendly. He mentioned something about ATF and then I said "the FSM says to use gear oil OR ATF". He thought this idea was ludicrous. "If your owner's manual is telling you to put whatever you want in your t-case, I would be suspicious. Gear oil and ATF have completely different viscosities and lubricating properties, not to mention color and smell." I then called a dealer who laughed at my idea of putting gear oil in the t-case. I put it in anyway. I trust the people on here. The worst I'll have to do is drain 2qts. out of my t-case that I barely even use. On a more positive note, I got my scary whining to go away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Towncivilian Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 WD21's T-case takes approximately 2.32 quarts of fluid, and the '95 FSM specifies ATF or 75W-90 gear oil as we both know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Put the first coat of paint on the driver's side half of the frame, and the second coat on the driver's front fender well. I will have gone through 5 quarts of Rustoleum, 2 cans of Rustoleum spray, 5 cans of 3M pro undercoating, and 6 cans of Eastwood internal frame coating to do the job. One more relatively nice day here in Chicago (high in the high 40s/low 50s) and I'll have the paint dry just in time for the snow expected on Thursday. Yay! Out, Out, Damned Rust! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1994SEV6 Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 WD21's T-case takes approximately 2.32 quarts of fluid, and the '95 FSM specifies ATF or 75W-90 gear oil as we both know. I actually called for something else than I got wrapped up in the gear oil. No big deal. You have definitely done a great job of making sure I got the right stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
devonianwalk Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Also grabbed the 8" sub from my Jeep project and made a 1/4" acrylic mount in rear storage area. Routed the speaker wire to the floor compartment under the cargo mat where the 14 year old Alpine amp (that was also pulled from the corner of a closet) now lives. The mount started out clear. I added some foam tape as a buffer and then pre-drilled the holes before screwing everything together. I totally dig this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vagabond Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 WD21's T-case takes approximately 2.32 quarts of fluid, and the '95 FSM specifies ATF or 75W-90 gear oil as we both know. This goes back a few years and I believe it was the NP 208 transfer case that Ford, Dodge, and GMC were using. GMC was using ATF, ford was using 90 weight gear oil and dodge was using 50 weight gear oil same transfer case just different lubricants Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchizophrenicMC Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Took it into some mud on a whim. Got stuck. My buddy Matt was with me and we were near his house so we got a shovel and some boards, but nothin', so we kept trying to get it before giving up and calling Matt Smith, who goes mudding a lot. He comes over, gets himself stuck about 150 feet ahead of my truck (came in from the other end) so he just floors it in reverse and gets out. Went around, both Matts and Nate get behind the Pathy and start pushing while I try and get it moving. Finally, I drop it into second and floor it while Nate gives a big shove and we just said screw it and got her moving. Turns out my automatic hubs are out. Not locking at all. We weren't THAT stuck, if all 4 wheels were driving, it would have gotten us out. So that's a bummer. Still, glad to get her properly dirty. (Nathan, Smith, Long - I took the picture) I gotta get new hubs, though. Stupid expensive.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Gutted most of the interior, got rid of all the mold, shampood the seats and carpet, put everything back in and drenched it in Lysol. The seat belts were the worst. That'll teach mold to grow in my truck again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 If you got it stuck in 2 wheel drive THEN switched to 4wd then they would not be able to engage. Autos need a full wheel rotation to lock in, so if your front tires aren't moving because your stuck, you're not in 4wd. A lot of people forget this and drive until stuck then think they can just get out with 4wd. its better to engage 4wd before getting stuck. OR, switch to manual hubs and never have this problem again. Just thought I'd mention that in case that was what happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Usually. Sometimes with enough CV axle spinnage they'll engage but it's violent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchizophrenicMC Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 If you got it stuck in 2 wheel drive THEN switched to 4wd then they would not be able to engage. Autos need a full wheel rotation to lock in, so if your front tires aren't moving because your stuck, you're not in 4wd. A lot of people forget this and drive until stuck then think they can just get out with 4wd. its better to engage 4wd before getting stuck. OR, switch to manual hubs and never have this problem again. Just thought I'd mention that in case that was what happened. I put it in 4wd before I went into the dirt at all. Made sure to go a short distance for the hubs to lock. Assumed they did. Got stuck, realized no front torque. In any case, upgrading to manual hubs should have been on my list regardless. Now it's there by necessity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Actually the hubs will lock if you put into 4wd while stuck, you just have to be gentle on the skinny pedal and you will here a soft thunk followed by no longer being stuck sounds like the brake plates are worn on your hubs. you can replace them with a good used set and be good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Really? I've never had them ever engage while stuck on the previous 2 pathy's I owned while stuck stationary. If the vehicle had a little bit of movement forward to back and you're careful on the pedal as you mentioned, then I could get it to engage, but when I've been stuck without any movement, I've never been able to get them to engage. Just rear wheel spin digging. I even used a high lift to get my front wheel off the ground and rotated each of them manually to engage them. Then got it out on its own power. I was told it was necessary to have the tire rotation to engage them and that made sense to me from my experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Opened the door and saw mold. Everywhere. Guess that's what I get for letting it sit for so long closed up. Also drilled and extracted the broken manifold studs. If its on the dash and steering wheel at leasst get a new steering wheel, that sheit will eat the vinyle/plastic wrap right off them and will come back after bleaching/ cleaning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJSquirrel Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Finished painting the frame! I need to reassemble the front suspension, replace the transmission, t-case and diff oils; GL4 in the trans and t-case, and GL5 in the diffs , bleed the brakes(again!), drill and retap the holes for the front skid plate, reinstall the ECUs and seats, and paint some rust spots around the windshield, and finally SeaFoam the whole mess. That should hold her until spring when a 3" lift and full front suspension rebuild and replacement of all the remaining fuel/brake hoses/hardlines is in order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 (edited) If its on the dash and steering wheel at leasst get a new steering wheel, that sheit will eat the vinyle/plastic wrap right off them and will come back after bleaching/ cleaning. Oh really? There was a lot on the steering wheel but none on the dash. I bleached the center console and the hard plastic panels, didn't want to bleach the steering wheel and have it do some serious damage because it's already in pretty bad shape. I need a new one anyways. I just noticed the seats are still damp from washing yesterday, and since it's 25 degrees they're frozen. Lol. Edited January 12, 2012 by Kingman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchizophrenicMC Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Really? I've never had them ever engage while stuck on the previous 2 pathy's I owned while stuck stationary. If the vehicle had a little bit of movement forward to back and you're careful on the pedal as you mentioned, then I could get it to engage, but when I've been stuck without any movement, I've never been able to get them to engage. Just rear wheel spin digging. I even used a high lift to get my front wheel off the ground and rotated each of them manually to engage them. Then got it out on its own power. I was told it was necessary to have the tire rotation to engage them and that made sense to me from my experience. Well, the hubs are free-running from what I've ascertained, so as long as there is axle movement forward, below a certain threshold, that's what actually locks the hubs. Free-running hubs are like a bicycle. When you pedal and the drive axle tries to move forward faster than the wheel, it locks and causes the wheel to move forward. When you don't pedal and cost, it just ratchets along. When you pedal backwards, it has no effect but to ratchet. Same concept. (And the reason Reverse doesn't drive the front wheels, as I've read it doesn't) Of course, I could be wrong, and if I am, do correct me. Regardless, I prefer the reliability of manual anything, so I'm looking to swap 'em out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle94 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 last night i set the ignition timing. today, listed it on CL. any one on here want it?? its either someone buys it, or its getting trade for a jeep, or a subaru legacy/legacy gt/legacy gt wagon/legacy wagon/ legacy sport touring turbo/legacy touring turbo wagon. or a nissan maxima. unless i can decide what the hell im going to to do with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwd5021 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 (edited) to that ^ I cleaned out the back of my truck and found out 3 of the screws holding the carpet down are rusted in place.. Edited January 13, 2012 by rwd5021 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchizophrenicMC Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Checked the oil and other fluids to see what might be making this metal-on-metal noise I keep hearing at low RPM. All's good. Thinking of checking gear oil this weekend, while I'm working on stuff for Sammy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kodi3482 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 i fitted and built a custom sub box the fits over the drivers side rear fenderwell. it gets carpet, sub, amp, and wired tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 i fitted and built a custom sub box the fits over the drivers side rear fenderwell. it gets carpet, sub, amp, and wired tomorrow Post some pics of that. I have a few designs drawn up but never made them, I'd to see one actually made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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