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The wheels were different between 1996 and 1999: http://www.finishlin...SAN/PATHFINDER/ But yeah, I like the look of the Nissan wheels better too but I wanted the specific tires and they didn't come in a 15" size so I had to find a solution that worked. I might add some coil & strut spacers later but I don't think I'll need wheel spacers based on the initial test fit. Regardless, I think I'm going to run the stock tires for a bit longer until they hit the wear bars and swap the new ones out then. Thanks. **EDIT** I messed with the picture a little because the silver doesn't look right in the pictures...do these look any better?

Before pic: How the wheels looked when I got them home: After sanding and a couple coats of Duplicolor wheel coating & clear (don't like the product after use): Wheels and tires installed and everything clears (no spacers anywhere)(sorry for funky color...lightened up with phone app): Strut clearance (no rubbing but I can't fit my finger between tire and spring cup): The stock LE alloy wheels are 15x7 with 5.5" backspacing (I measured and confirmed) The Tacoma steel wheels are 16x7 with 5.25" backspacing (I measured and confirmed) Here is a chart showing the difference between the stock wheel/tire combo and the new wheel/tire combo: http://www.rimsntire...0&text1=&text2=

265/75/16 (32") Cooper Discoverer ATP for $95/ea at Discount Tire, plus a $100 mail in rebate. I currently have stock 15" LE wheels but found a set of 2005 Tacoma 16" steel wheels on Craigslist for $50 for the set, which I'm picking up this weekend. I chose the Tacoma wheels for a few reasons: price, look and fit. Obviously they have the same 6x5.5 bolt pattern but just as important is the large center bore size to fit over the Warn hubs. I've been getting mixed info on the backspacing on these wheels. I read 5.5" down to 4.65". If the latter, I might not need wheel spacers to clear the struts but I'll test fit before I order spacers. I looked at several other wheels including 18" six spoke Titan take-offs but didn't feel like machining the wheels (assuming my internet research was correct) or spending more than $95/tire for 32s. Anyway, the tires will get mounted to the "new" wheels next week which will give me time to make my 1.25" HDPE strut spacers. I'll probably leave the rear suspension height alone unless I don't like the look once everything is mounted and then address as needed. I already put some Rancho 9000s in the rear (that I had on the Jeep a few years ago and have been collecting dust ever since). Obligatory pictures below... Cooper ATP tread: Tire info: http://www.discountt...covereratp.html Random wheel pic from a Google search: HAPPY MEMORIAL DAY WEEKEND!!!

You could use a standard wiring harness but you won't get the most out of your setup. I ran a standard wiring harness for a week before removing it and going back to the PAC in the Pathfinder and it is so much better now. I'm running a decent (albeit old) HU and now have full range from both HU and speakers (factory Bose & aftermarket sub). I'm not saying that ripping out all the Bose equipment, running new wiring and installing all new aftermarket equipment isn't the way to go if you were competing in Nopi events (is Nopi still around?), but the value for money just isn't there for a daily driver compared to getting a proper wiring harness for the factory Bose equipment. If I were in my early twenties, I'd disagree with myself, but a decade later and the voice of reason steps in. Pic of my HU for reference:

LIke others have said, there is a sound quality issue installing an aftermarket headunit (HU) in place of the factory Bose HU. However, the PAC ROEM-NIS2 is the best harness I've found that let's you keep the Bose speakers/amp and keep sound quality fairly good. I've installed one on every Nissan vehicle I've owned (2 Maximas & 1 Pfinder) and I've always kept the Bose speakers/amps, then added an aftermarket sub/amp. http://www.pac-audio...1&CategoryID=26 http://www.amazon.co...s/dp/B000CE9OY2 http://www.sonicelec...ac=1&zmap=11164 **EDIT #1** The Sonic Electronics site I referenced lists applications for vehicles up to 2002 and I see you have a 2003. Call PAC AUDIO to verify application. **EDIT #2** I double checked the PAC AUDIO (manufacturer) site and it lists Pathfinder applications through 2006.

Did a little spring cleaning in the garage over the weekend and found a pair of forgotten Rancho RS99116 shocks that came off my Jeep project. Took off the JKS bar pin eliminators and stud conversions and cleaned them up a bit. Checked dimensions and thinking about mounting them on the rear of my '99...maybe this weekend when I fiddle with my custom HDPE strut spacers.

65 miles/day M-F round trip

Updates on speedo correction?

Nice link, thanks. I think I'm going to my Metal Supermarket guy tomorrow to get some aluminum prices and start on my own spacers.

What's wrong with this picture...

I currently average just over 19mpg but I was averaging about 17mpg before installing the Warn hubs. Mostly highway miles and usually the tail end of rush hour traffic or none at all. Everything (suspension/wheels/tires) is stock running at 35psi and I don't rev the engine above 3000rpm.

Is there a source for just the bare housing/lense and not the guts? I already did a HID projector retrofit (from www.retrofitsource.com) in my stock '96-'99 housings and vacu-formed some new clear lenses but I'd like the look a little cleaner and the JDM lense/housing looks good. eBay appears to only have complete sides which I neither need nor will pay for. Thanks.

This. Happened in my Maxima....died 60 miles into a road trip and had to get towed home. No warning signs before the road trip but the brake & battery lights came on during.

If only there was an entire thread of members showing tire size vs. lift stickied somewhere...

Advance Auto Parts (and possibly other auto part stores) rents these tools for free. You have to put down a refundable deposit but you get the entire 6 or 7 piece kit.

I got my front seatbelts replaced for free under Nissan warranty! I never knew how exciting new seat belts could be...

I busted a headlight 2 weeks ago and went to two Pull A Part junkyards to grab a couple of replacement assemblies. While I was there, I looked at all their Pathfinders within the year range that would have rear discs as an option but I've had no luck yet. There's a third PAP in Atlanta that I want to try out and I'll grab the entire axle to start my conversion if it has discs. (for my references later...) http://nissannut.com/projects/H233b_disc_brakes/ http://www.roninwheelers.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=5307 http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=858428

I went to a dealership in Atlanta this morning to have my front seat belts inspected since they do not retract properly. I mentioned the warranty up front over the phone when I made the appointment to let them know that was why I was bringing it to them. After the technicians looked over the car for a few minutes, I have new seat belts on order completely covered under the warranty! PS, they looked into doing the d-ring fix but didn't believe it would help since the issue was with the retraction mechanisms and not d-ring build up. Thanks guys!

http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-replace-brake-rotors-and-pads-for-2001-qx4-pathfinder-t445492.html

Thanks. Yeah, they probably are just different enought not to work. I don't mind a little tweaking to make things work if it looks factory in the end. Good news though, the radiator support looks the same for all years. I'm trying the new headlight lenses again this week so the front end swap may not happen anyway.

Are they the same fenders? They have different part numbers but they visually look the same. I haven't been able to get measurements on the '99.5-'04 fender, specifically around the corner lamp. Though I may do a parking lot creep this week and take some. I'm contimplating a front end conversion and already have the hood, grille, bumper fillers, headlights, corner lights and bumper on the list but trying to figure out the fenders. Anything else I'm forgetting? I need to research the bumper reinforcement some more. The original option was to vacuform some clear headlight lenses for my '96-'99 headlights so I can throw a Retrofit Source HID/projector kit in the stock housings but I like the entire front end conversion better. Thanks,

Put 2004 tail lights in my early model 1999. The wiring harnesses were the same too so I had both sides done in about 5 mins start to finish.

Here's my $0.02... I stay away from the drilled or slotted rotors because I'm not a race car and will never use the "features." Also, 4x4s tend to get junk in the holes. With rotors, more mass to absorb and dissipate heat the better. I've used various rotors over the years, from Brembo blanks to auto part store house brands to super-duper cryo treated slotted, and finally used and stuck with the Centric brand. I only use ceramic pads now (less dust, quiet, etc) and for our year Pathfinder, here's what I like: Pads Centric Posi-Quiet Ceramic Brake Pad with Shims P/N 105.0691 ('96-'04) $27.77 on Amazon.com with free shipping Rotors Centric C-Tek Standard Brake Rotor (good, clean ready to install rotor) P/N 121.42063 ('96-'99) P/N 121.42068 ('99.5-'04) $30.70 on Amazon.com with free shipping Centric Premium Brake Rotor with E-Coating (above rotor with black e-coating and extra finishing, great installed look and performace) P/N 120.42063 ('96-'99) P/N 120.42068 ('99.5-'04) $59.07 on Amazon.com with free shipping FYI, I hate drum brakes so I haven't looked into the rear brakes except for wanting to convert to discs. (updated part numbers)

How is this hardcore?