88pathoffroad

Here's the one I made. Didn't take all that long and it works OK, but it's still not as good as a standard bulb for brightness. LED's are so damn directional! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=3810

No, the fogs should be separate. Hey, fill out your profile so we know what you drive, etc. Fogs should have their own relay either on the fenderwell under the hood on the pass. side or at the firewall, same side. Single black Bosch relay with brightly-colored wiring. Purple, yellow, green, black. Check the relay and see if it works first. Check grounds for the fogs next. Check bulbs after that. To upgrade headlights with a relay you don't have to replace a buttload of wiring, just use the low beam wire on one headlight to turn on a relay which should then send power from the battery directly to the headlights. Take a bit of splicing but it's worth it. If you're unsure on how to wire things in or use relays, check here: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

Check the headlight switch first. Very common problem.

I've had bad experiences with a Firestone locally. We took in a bucket truck (dually rear axle) for new rear brakes. They slapped 'em on, cranked down the bolts and didn't test-drive it. Took a drive and when I hit the brakes I about vibrated out of the seat. When they torqued everything up for the new drums they either warped slightly or they were warped(out of round) out of the box. The whole thing had to be torn back down, the drums turned and the brakes re-inspected. Then we took one truck in for an oil change and a MAP sensor(IIRC). Got it back leaking antifreeze badly from an intake hose and with the air cleaner lid skewed 4 inches to one side and CRANKED DOWN THAT WAY. It was the most obviously wrong thing on an engine I'd seen in quite some time. This was on a 454 with the round air cleaner housing that uses an offset ('bent') threaded rod for the lid...the rod was twisted 45 degrees the wrong way. What complete morons.

According to the FSM for an 88, your problem is either the MAF sensor or the injectors. The ECU will go into fail-safe mode (engine operation limited to 2800 RPM) if either the MAF or injectors fail to operate. I suppose that COULD point at a crank angle sensor being off, but I think it'd run pretty ratty with that many errors. Sorry I didn't see this post earlier. The Recent Posts function of this board frequently drops topics off the list on me for some reason.

Why wouldn't it be in the How-To section? You wrote up an article on how to do the job complete with pics. Thanks for that, BTW.

AC's dual-filter kit costs $69.95 versus $41.95 from Summit...lol Seems they shoot themselves in the foot every chance they get.

It's got more parts and is more complicated than a simple panhard rod. Extra mounts, holes etc would have to be fabbed. I don't think there's any real guarantee of any benefits from converting an existing panhard-equipped axle with a Watts linkage setup instead. Is there? If mounted up high enough it would reduce your chances of hanging up on the panhard rod when offroading...coil springs would stay seated better...?

None of the US HB's were carbed, they were either TBI (Z24i) or MPFI (KA24) on the 4-cyls. Same TBI unit as the VG30i, from what I've read.

I stuck a screwdriver through the sprocket to get mine off. The bolts weren't all THAT tight.

'K....the driveshaft hasn't moved, so it's not that. Check your CV axles. Are the torsion bars cranked too far up? You have to leave SOME down-travel.

I used 3/16 steel and basically sleeved the stock panhard rod bracket on 3 sides, then drilled through the stock holes and bolted it up with huge bolts. With a welder and some patience you can do a lot of things! Works great so far.

Which lift did you put on?

I had some high-wattage headlights once, I think they were 90W low, 100W high...melted the crap out my my headlight wiring sockets just by using the low beams. Both quit working within a few months. I had to find replacement sockets. If you put 55W and 65W on at the same time, say hello to melted plastic!

I dunno, isn't this mostly a moot point unless one engine is noticeably better than the other? What would the pros be for swapping the 4-cyl? Better gas mileage? Less weight?

I have a Yakima rack that clamps to the doors in front and rests on the roof in rear with rails attaching both crossbars. It's all made by Yakima, you can get a wind deflector for it, and I can rock the whole Pathy back and forth just by holding onto the roof rack. They're pretty beefy!

That's funny, cos most people around here with extra lights drive around during the day with them all on and nobody I see ever gets a ticket. Not to mention the old folks driving everywhere with their HIGH BEAMS ON. Ugh. I've gotten a warning for driving at dusk with headlights off and two sets of fog lights on, but that was a technicality, I simply wasn't supposed to have two sets of lights on at the same time. lol

AB = Anti-Backfire. The AB valve re-routes intake vacuum when you're driving and suddenly let off the gas. That way it doesn't backfire through the intake and cause an engine fire. I took mine off, but I don't have emissions to pass.

A 30 amp relay will be fine for two lights. Let's see...for four lights... 100W x 4 = 400W A=W/V 400W/13.5V = 29.6A I'd use two relays.

Bah, just keep the frame washed out. I was actually floating in this pic for a few seconds.

Dunno, it may be slightly different from the earlier H233B LSD's...the breakaway number sure is.

Oh they made quite a few 90 2-doors, just not for the US. Canada got some and the overseas market got lots.

They're ALL 21.1 gallons for WD21's.

The circled bit is the tension rod (compression rod).

L&P is no longer a viable company, the guy running it has basically ripped off people on this forum. You can get a HooHaa centerlink or a Calmini centerlink. The pics for the Calmini setup show it to be fairly obviously beefier than stock...www.purenissan.com