88pathoffroad

27 here. Been working on cars since I was 16.

I take it you only want the driving lights to come on when the high beams are on, right? Get an electrical tester or voltmeter. Turn on your headlights. Unplug one headlight plug from the back of the housing. There will be three wires, one ground, one low beam and one high beam wire. Now, probe the terminals inside the plug to determine which wire is currently running 12 volts. That will be your low beam power wire. Note which wire that is, and turn on your high beams. Probe the terminals again and find which wire is now also running 12 volts. That will be your high beam wire. Very simple to find out. I would suggest wiring your new lights through a relay using the high beam wire as the trigger or switching wire. Trying to run a set of driving lights off your high beam wiring will burn it out in short order, if it doesn't blow a fuse first.

Where do you think I got the Ford spring in my pictures? Huh huh? The PM I sent you should help.

Hehehehe

Hell if I know. All I can say is that I'm sick and tired of trying to fix the thing. It runs smoothly, stays running for prolonged periods of time, and doesn't die in the middle of the road any more. I'm not TOUCHING it again unless I have to! Oh, BTW, I get more like 4 MPG at the sand dunes. A whole tank of gas in 75-90 miles of driving.

Edit by 88pathoffroad: Sorry, had to take the link down, AC removed it so it's not there for anyone anymore. Just thought I'd toss this up for everyone to read, just in case. The subject DOES come up a lot.

Feh. I get 10 MPG. Tanks holds 22 gallons, supposedly. So I get about 200 miles or so before it goes completely empty. On another note, I am SO TIRED of the wimpy-a$$ gas guzzler V6 in mine...

Sure. Let me know which one.

Yeah. You can get those locally at most auto parts stores, as far as I've seen. I have a sneaking suspicion that differently colored LED's behind my instrument cluster won't do much, cause all the lines and numerals are already in orange.

This is a copy of a PM I recieved from someone on the AC BBS. Just thought I'd post the info here, as it applies to everyone, pretty much. "Well, Chris... That's a two-edged sword you're looking at there with the cheap rear lift and no front lift. On one hand, if you do just stick the rear springs in and lift that end but leave the front alone, you'll be OK on the steering bit, but your Pathfinder will look really funny. On the other hand, If you want it to look good and ALSO be more trail worthy, you'll really need to crank up the torsion bars. You don't have to max them out, just push 'em up till they come close to matching the rear lift if you go with that in the end. A set of aftermarket upper a-arms is a good idea. The steering problems are from running bigger tires and offroading your Nissan. If you mostly drive it on the road, I would say that you would be just fine cranking up the t-bars, as long as you get it aligned afterwards. If you offroad the piss out of it, you should EXPECT to have to replace parts. It's like they say, "You play, you pay." Keep in mind here, the Nissan designers didn't envision your Pathfinder running through mud bogs, over rocks, or over tree stumps...they simply built it to go off the pavement and do a good job on moderately level surfaces with minimal wheelspin. It all depends on where you go and what you do with your Nissan. If you drive it like a goofball, expect it to die pretty quickly. If you drive it well and take things easy, it should last a while. Hope this helps.

You're all aware that the front CV axles only spin when the transfer case is in 4WD, right? Therefore, you will never hear any kind of "clunking" noise from a CV axle when turning in a Pathfinder in 2WD... Also, if the CV boot is ripped and you just need to keep stuff out of the joint, taping it up or covering it with something will work until you can replace the boot or whole axle.

I think a set of upper a-arms by themselves and new torsion bars along with a set of JGC springs would be the best/most economical route to lifting your Pathfinder about 3". And yes, get an alignment afterwards.

Email it to me. The address is in my profile.

How about 450 lbs of tools and equipment? Right before a 700 mile trip across two states...

If anyone here needs a picture hosted for their BBS signature or for any other reason, I will host it for you and send you the link for it upon request FOR FREE. I can also offer image resizing, cropping, and editing so that anyone without access to photoediting programs can have a decently sized and arranged picture for your signature or for demo purposes. Either post here or PM me. Also, please keep the size of your signature pics down to the bare minimum. They should be around 15-30 kb in size, and yes, it is possible to have a small filesize picture that still looks good. Mine is 13 kb. How's that look? I'm not trying to nag, just trying to keep things rolling along smoothly here without getting bogged down by too much data. If one page loads with the same person's oversize picture posted three or four times, the time it takes to load each page goes up. Dial-up users will definitely appreciate this as well. Thanks!

It might also depend on which stock stereo setup your vehicle has. On some SE's, they have an amplifier that runs the rear speakers. If you take out the stock stereo that feeds the rear amp power and the proper amount of input signal, then your rear speakers won't work with an aftermarket CD player, becaus ethe CD player isn't equipped to send both power and signal back to that amplifier. I think the easiest option is just to run new speaker wires into the back and splice them into the original speaker wiring AFTER the amplifier, if so equipped. It's not too hard to do, you just have to remove some interior panels.

stevew1: Oh, the GF at the time. Long gone, and I don't really miss her, except for her...cravings...shall we say?

Exactly. A cheap spring compressor would have made it a lot easier for me. I hate having to make do with prybars when another tool could make the job easier, but I was in the middle of the project! I wasn't about to quit! hehe

Your Ford beast? I thought this was a Nissan Pathfinder forum! stevew1: Sly dog indeed! She was pulling me into the back while there was a party going on outside! Good thing I have tinted windows.

How to pull ECU error codes for 87-95 Pathfinders and hardbody pickups: The ECU is under your passenger's side seat. You can gain access to it by simply sliding the seat all the way forward and removing the plastic cover from the ECU. You can also remove the seat if you want, it makes access a little easier. The VG30i ECU's have a tiny toggle switch on the side of the ECU with a small snap-in switch cover that must be utilized to select the diagnostic mode of the ECU. The 4-cylinder ECU and the VG30E ECU has a slotted switch that turns 1/4 or 1/2 turn clockwise and counterclockwise to do the same task. Some early 4-cyl HB ECU's have the switch as well. In any case it will have one or the other. Pictures: This is the ECU from my very dirty (and wrecked) 89 VG30i Pathfinder. VG30E ECU's have a slotted round switch in the same place as the toggle switch. Seat removed; ECU in place on the floor with cover. The cover has ONE screw holding it down. Remove that and the cover will pull off. Diagnostic selector switch with cover installed Diagnostic selector switch with switch cover removed and set on top of the ECU. This is where the LED lights are visible on top of the ECU. For 4-cylinder: 1. Turn the ignition switch on, but do not start the engine. All of the lights in the dash should be on. 2. Turn the 'diagnostic mode selector' screw on the ECU fully clockwise. The check engine light will go out. Wait 5 seconds, then turn the screw fully counter clockwise. 3. The check engine light will then begin to flash the trouble code. (number of long flashes is the 1st digit, number of short flashes is the 2nd digit) 4. To clear all stored codes and turn the check engine light off, turn the screw fully clockwise while it is in diagnostic mode. Wait 5 seconds, then turn the screw fully counter clockwise. 5. To keep the codes stored, simply turn the key off as the check engine light is flashing and the ECU will keep all stored codes and the check engine light will remain on. For V6: 1. Turn the ignition switch on, but do not start the engine. All of the lights in the dash should be on. 2. For VG30i: There is a little plastic tab you pull off of the side of the ECU(facing the door). A small toggle switch is behind it with 2 positions, "ON" and "DIAGNOSTICS". Using a small screwdriver or tool, move it to the diagnostics position. The red and green LED's on top of the ECU will blink simultaneously. One time, pause, then 2 times, three times, pause...so on for each mode, 1 through 5. Mode 3 is the most commonly used mode and will yield the ECU trouble codes you need to figure out what's going on with your engine. For VG30E with slotted switch: Turn the 'diagnostic mode selector' screw on the ECU fully clockwise. The check engine light will go out. Wait 5 seconds, then turn the screw fully counter clockwise. 3. After it blinks both LED's 3 times move the toggle switch back to the on position. After about five seconds it will start to output out the diagnostic codes as with the 4-cylinder ECU. Note each code as it is displayed, the red LED flashing once for 10's, and the green LED flashing once for 1's. Meaning: One red flash and two green flashes means code 12. 4. To clear the ECU of any trouble codes, move the switch to the "DIAGNOSTICS" position then back to the "ON" position and turn off the key. 1986.5-1995 Nissan ECU Flash Codes(all engines) 11 Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor. 12 Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor. 13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. 14 Vehicle Speed Sensor. 21 Ignition Signal. 22 Fuel Pump. 23 Idle Switch. 24 Throttle Valve Switch. 25 Idle Speed Control Valve. 28 Cooling Fan Circuit. 31 ECM. 32 EGR Function. 33 Heated Oxygen Sensor. 34 Knock Sensor. 35 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor. 36 EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer. 37 Knock Sensor. 38 Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2). 41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor. 42 Fuel Temperature Sensor. 43 Throttle Position Sensor. 44 ECCS Normal Operation. 45 Injector Leak. 47 Crankshaft Position Sensor. 51 Injector Circuit. 53 Oxygen Sensor. 54 A/T Control. 55 No Malfunction. 63 No. 6 Cylinder Misfire. 64 No. 5 Cylinder Misfire. 65 No. 4 Cylinder Misfire. 66 No. 3 Cylinder Misfire. 67 No. 2 Cylinder Misfire. 68 No. 1 Cylinder Misfire. 71 Random Misfire. 72 TWC Function right hand bank. 73 TWC Function right hand bank. 76 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank. 77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit. 82 Crankshaft Position Sensor. 84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line. 85 VTC Solenoid Valve Circuit. 86 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank. 87 Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit. 91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank. 94 TCC Solenoid Valve. 95 Crankshaft Position Sensor. 98 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. 101 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank. 103 Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit. 105 EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit. 108 Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit ECU Diagnostic Mode Procedures Mode I - Exhaust Oxygen Sensor Monitor ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Use Mode I to determine if the Oxygen Sensor is functioning properly. Warm the engine to normal temperature. Run the engine above 2000 RPM under no load while looking at the ECU. Make sure the GREEN LED goes on and off more than five times during ten seconds at 2000 RPM. If the number of flashes are not more than five, replace the oxygen sensor. If the LED does not flash, check the sensor's circuit. Mode II - Mixture Ratio Control Monitor ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Use Mode II to determine if the air/fuel mixture is cycling correctly. Warm the engine to normal operating temperature. Turn the dial on the ECU fully clockwise (or if you have a switch, turn it on). After the LED flashes twice, turn the dial fully counter clockwise (or turn the switch off). Run the engine above 2000 RPM under no load while looking at the ECU. If the RED LED blinks simultaneously with the GREEN LED, the air/fuel mixture is cycling properly. If the RED LED stays off, the mixture is more than 5% rich. If the RED LED stays on, the mixture is more than 5% lean. If the RED LED stays on or off above 2000 RPM, complete the diagnostics before beginning repairs. Mode III - Stored Fault Code Reporting ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Use Mode III to retrive all stored trouble codes in memory. Use the above posted procedures. Mode IV - Switch Operation Monitor ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Use Mode IV to determine if the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), Starter circuit and/or Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) are in proper working order. Turn the ignition switch on, but do not start the engine. Turn the dial on the ECU fully clockwise. After the LED flashes 4 times, turn the dial fully counter clockwise. Make sure the RED LED is turned off. Make sure the RED LED turns on when depressing the gas pedal. If not, check or replace the Throttle Position Sensor. Make sure the RED LED turns on when turning the ignition key the START position. If not, check or replace the starter. Drive the vehicle with the ECU unbolted and within view. Make sure the GREEN LED turns on when speed is 12 MPH or more. If not, check or replace the Vehicle Speed Sensor. Mode V - Real Time Diagnostic Function ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Use Mode V to determine if the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS), Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAFS) and/or Ignition signal are working properly. Start engine. Turn the dial on the ECU fully clockwise. After the LED flashes 5 times, turn the dial fully counter clockwise. Make sure LEDs do not flash for 5 minutes when racing or idling the engine. If it flashes, count the number of flashes, turn engine off, and see the following 3 paragraphs. Perform real-time diagnosis insepction and repair or replace malfunctioning part if present. if LEDs do not flash for 5 minutes, turn engine off. If the RED LED flashes 3 times for 1.5 seconds, check the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Check the harness continuity at CPS when the engine is stopped. Inspect the harness for dust and clean if necessary. Check the pin terminal at ECU for bends and remove them as necessary. Reconnect harness and recheck continuity. During real-time diagnosis, tap the harness connector or component and check if trouble code is displayed. If so, replace terminal. If the GREEN LED flashes twice-3 times for 0.5 seconds, check Mass Air Flow Sensor. Check the harness continuity at MAFS when the engine is stopped. Inspect the harness for dust and clean if necessary. Check the pin terminal at ECU for bends and remove them as necessary. Reconnect harness and recheck continuity. During real-time diagnosis, tap the harness connector or component and check if trouble code is displayed. If so, replace terminal. If the GREEN LED flashes 4 times for 0.2 seconds 3 times, check the ignition signal. Check the harness continuity when the engine is stopped. Inspect the harness for dust and clean if necessary. Check the pin terminal at ECU for bends and remove them as necessary. Reconnect harness and recheck continuity. During real-time diagnosis, tap the harness connector or component and check if trouble code is displayed. If so, replace terminal. Hope this helps...

Whoa, Steve...your sig pic is a bit big, man. 137 K!! That'll take more than 5 seconds to load on dial-up for JUST YOUR PIC on every forum page that your sig pic is on. If you posted more than once on a page, your pic has to be loaded for every post you made. Want help resizing/reformatting it so it's smaller in filesize? That being said...2-doors kick arse, but the 4-doors have more interior room, I think. Hehe. This is coming from someone that has "rocked the Pathfinder" from the inside and knows. ;D

The crankshaft on the 300Z engines are LONGER - which means that you will have to get a new harmonic balancer, all the accesory mounts (so that the belts will match up), and the oil pan will have to be swapped out due to differences in crossmember height and oil pump pickup specs. The intake and top end are different as well. You'll need a new oil pan, intake, airflow meter and computer at a minimum. This being said. you might be better off finding a junkyard VG30 engine somewhere close by, just cleaning that up and putting it in.

This is a discussion regarding replacement rear springs that can be used to lift your Pathfinder without you having to spend $100 on new springs. You can use either Jeep Grand Cherokee front coil springs(I6 or V8, AWD, from 1992-1997) or Ford pickup coil springs(from 1970-1978, 2WD, V8), depending on what's more readily available to you and/or what you personally prefer. I bought my JGC coils for $10 each at a local junkyard which seems to be a fairly cheap price after hearing from a lot of other people, but that's what they asked. Other people have used actual lift springs for a Ford truck and have had to cut down the springs to get them to fit properly, so this is not an end-all post regarding which springs you can use, it's simply a post that includes the easiest to find, modify and install springs for lifting Pathfinders. Further updates and some clarification on coil spring rate and usages: Thanks a million guys, working together we can help everybody stay on the same page and not have any problems with finding the RIGHT springs! -88 Here is my install and review report on the JGC coil springs. A NEWLY UPDATED review of the Ford coil spring/Jeep coil spring installation with before and after pictures can be found here: http://www.damagedreality.com/fordcoil.html =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= These springs will yield: 2 1/2" to 3" of lift over stock Pathy coils, longer than Ford coils, higher rate than stock Pathfinder coils, cheap($10 each), and fairly easy to find. There were at least ten wrecked JGC's in the junkyard when I got mine. Coils have been installed and driven around on. Prognosis: Awesome fit. Same amount of lift I had with the Ford coils, almost the same stiffness-wise. I'd highly reccommend a set of JGC front coils for lifting over the Ford coils. PICS: A stock Pathfinder spring, a JGC spring(before cutting), and the old Ford spring(with the pigtail coil cut off). You can see how much burlier the Ford coils are, spring wire diameter-wise. This is how much of the JGC coil I cut off. I used a $20 angle grinder from Harbor Freight Tools. Then I beveled the inside edge of the cut and deburred the edges of the ground-off coil end to clean it up. Installed coil springs...nice shiny black powder coat from the Jeep factory. Passenger's side spring, this is the one that droops the most on the trail because the panhard rod on the other side of the axle limits droop a bit more over on the driver's side. Note that there is no looseness! I've been having some nasty problems with the Ford coil dropping out of it's socket on the passenger's side on the trail. FIXED! The only thing I would like to mention otherwise was that the stock spring isolator/seat that goes on top of each stock coil spring wouldn't fit back in after installing the JGC springs. They're a tight fit, which is a good thing. I used four rubber donuts cut out of an old mud flap in it's place on both sides(two top, two bottom). I had to jack up the driver's side with TWO jacks and unbolt the lower shock mount & panhard rod to get the axle to droop low enough to get that darn coil in there(with the aid of a prybar and some heavy twisting). Then I had to pull downwards on the coil with one hand while shuffling the rubber donuts in under the end of the coil on top. I don't believe I'll have any problems with that, I just wanted to mention it. The passenger's side coil is easier to get in there, because that side of the axle droops more with the shock unbolted. To remove the JGC coils from a donor vehicle: 12, 13, and 14 MM sockets and ratchet will be needed, some pliers or a small crescent wrench, and the JGC will need to be jacked up/supported so that the front suspension is at full droop. There is a brake line bracket that needs to be removed(two bolts), then the lower coil retainer strap(one bolt), then the shocks will need to be unbolted(one nut on top of the shock), and the front swaybar's upper endlink bolts(BOTH sides) will need to be removed for the rest of the suspension to droop all the way and let the coil be taken out. I had to use a bit of an improvised prybar to get the spring to come off it's seat in the vehicle I got my springs off of. You simply need to pry it off the lower seat to get it to slide out to the front. Stepping on the hub with my foot also helped drop the suspension a bit lower. On the DS spring, I had to "unscrew" the spring until it dropped low enough to clear the steering components. Nothing special needed, just some basic tools and some elbow grease. It has come to my attention that due to the differences in weight ratios and setups on different year and model Pathfinders, some people may not get as much lift out of the JGC coils as I did. My Pathy is a 2-door with no rear tire carrier. Four door Pathfinders with the rear tire carrier have a LOT more rear end weight and will only get about 1.5" of lift from the JGC coils. A set of poly or rubber spacers along with the new coils may be a good answer for a cheap lift on a four door. Edit by 88: updated with fresh information and know-how, 10/9/06.

Hi Steve. *wave* ^_^

The studs should be changed out regardless and upgraded to the 300ZX revised manifold studs instead of using the OEM Pathfinder studs. The Nissan dealership should know all about this. I've heard that a good procedure when trying to remove old studs is to tap the tip of the stud a few times with a hammer and punch. This loosens the rust in the threads and makes it easier to remove the stud, thereby reducing the chances of the stud breaking off inside the head. I don't know where you've been looking, burnevans94xe, but with a single Google search, I got about 25 hits on "Nissan Pathfinder headers". Lots of places sell them, http://www.4x4parts.com being one place to get performance and replacement Nissan parts.