88pathoffroad

This is a silly question. If you're here, you're about 90% likely to offroad your Pathfinder in the first place. This IS an Pathfinder offroad forum, after all.

Check the sticker under the hood? 10W-30 is good for all-around use and won't hurt anything.

Ditto. Hehehehe "If The Pathfinder's Rockin', Don't Come A Knockin'"

Did you buy it used? Does anyone else drive it? Has it been confirmed that it is a bottom end knock, or is this the opinion of one mechanic? Get a second opinion? I've never heard of this happening, but I've seen a VQ35 blown to bits by feeding it a 125 HP shot of nitrous. Oh, and the nitrous was being fed to the engine through a pair of turbochargers...

How much did you pay for those clear bumper lights?

Could also be from the thermostat housing in the center of the engine on the front.

I got one from the local junkyard for $50. Plus all the top side internal brackets needed. The lower end I'm really not sure about, cause on the Pathy in the junkyard, the lower bracket was spotwelded in and completely encased in the body sheetmetal...but I know someone else with a '89 that put a carrier on, so I know it's possible. I just don't know if the lower hinge internal bracket comes with every Pathfinder, or whether they only have one if they had a carrier in the first place. I think what I'll end up doing is mounting the internal brackets, then use a punch to lightly mark exactly where the bolt holes need to go from the inside...and go from there.

Nah, I just know where to look for info.

Hope this helps anyone with the remote entry unlock/lock system. If your remote control is lost, broken or stolen, here's the procedure for programming a new one to your vehicle. Info prompted by DylanMarley12, provided by 88pathoffroad. This is a PDF file, a copy of Nissan North America's TSB on remote programming procedures. It should apply to 96-up Pathfinders, even though the document says 98-up. Give that a try. http://Nissan.damagedreality.com/Nissanremoteprogramming.pdf If that doesn't work or you have problems, try using this as a reference. If neither of those procedures works for you, check your fuses. There is a 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse panel that feeds the remote control module, which also feeds the horn and hazard lights from what I hear.

You said it, not me. Sorry to have made that mistake. ...I don't know what else to tell you. It's entirely possible that something else other than timing belt parts could have died and started making the noises you're hearing....therefore, the dealer may NOT be at fault, and they would be correct in wanting to charge you for finding out what's wrong with it at this time. It may very well be the idler pulley for your water pump/AC belt. Are you able to take it apart yourself to test and see what you can find out? If you take the belts off and run the engine for a short while, that would tell you whether the noise is coming from under the timing cover or from one of the outer belt-driven accessories. Try that if you can.

The "filter" in the auto's is simply a fine-mesh screen. No real "filter" to change.

Should be the same, but remember to measure crank snout length to make sure everything will swap over. They need to be the same.

I've never heard of a Pathfinder sunroof rusting out on a 99 model. That's downright wierd. Must have been serious previous owner abuse/neglect.

Oh, I see. Cool beans. sssh

How'd you set it up with duals in and a single out? That's kind of, well, backwards, isn't it? There are duals coming all the way to the rear of an R50 Pathy? o.O

It's your front brakes, and you need to look into taking them apart to get them to stop squealing. Like I said, mine needs new rotors and it's doing exactly what yours is. Intermittent squeal at lower cruising speeds, which goes away at freeway speeds.

If you changed the t-belt yourself previously, and you don't want to pay the dealership to look at it, I think your only option is to take it back apart yourself and see what you did wrong in the first place. Also, please don't put cusswords in the title of a thread, we're trying to keep it clean. I edited it a bit for you.

Because you'd have to buy 20 hockey pucks to even start to make a 3" lift(5 body mounts per side, 2 pucks per mount for 3"), and you wouldn't get any of the relocation brackets or extension hoses or instructions that come with the kit.

Um, it's so vital that he's sold how many sets so far? hehehe Sales tell the story more than voiced demand and desire, usually.

Kinda tough. Go read the install page I wrote for it.

I had to both notch the floor and bend the t-case shifter for mine. I dunno about the manual shifter, though.

Probably needs new rotors. Mine does that and I'm getting REAL tired of it.

Any body lift for your year Pathfinder will work. The auto transmission is shifted via cable and there's tons of room for the lift. Nothing at all to worry about. Mine's an automatic and I have a Trailmaster 3" bodylift. Check here for more info on installing a body lift: http://www.damagedreality.com/tmaster.html

A-yup.

Could be a good thing, but what happens if you're working on, say, a water pump...and you end up breaking a stud. Two studs, even. Special Ford studs that're gold plated, reverse threaded and are slightly crooked so they fit better(we all know Ford is notorious for making impossible to replace specialty parts)...which aren't available anywhere nearby. You came alone, can't find a ride to go get one, and in the meantime, your completely disabled vehicle is sitting in an hourly rented shop space piling up charges? What if the same happens to someone working on suspension, so that it can't simply be rolled out of the shop and off the lift?