88pathoffroad

I have had all 3 UCA's side by side. Stock, AC and Rough Country/Superlift. The AC arms do not correct the BJ angle. They market them that way so they can sell more. In fact, they're even flatter than stock arms are, which makes the BJ angles WORSE than stock. Idiots.

Damn, man. Jared was a good soul. He was nice to everyone and always tried to help out in arguments. We'll miss him and I'm sorry to hear of this.

Hi... LTNS, NPORA. I somewhat recently had my hosting package canceled due to a mix-up with debit card numbers and expiration dates, so allllllll of the pics I had hosted for NPORA went away with the hosting package. To quote Charlie Brown, "AAAAAUUGGH!" >.< I got the account fixed and re-uploaded 99% of all the pics that were missing. Problem is, when I uploaded the backups I neglected to keep the capital letters in the filenames (dammit) so if a pic had a capital letter in the name originally and I re-uploaded it in all lower case it won't show up. If you find more missing pics of mine in any how-to's or important threads, please post here and let me know. -88

You can't crank the front end up that high without making problems for your CV axles. They're still stock axles and they still have a stock range of angularity/movement. You need about 1/2" between the UCA and the upper bumpstop at least. There's really no way to match maximum front lift to rear lift with these things due to the IFS front suspension setup. Ball joint spacers are not good in general if you intend to wheel your Pathy. Did you find the 1/2" spacers? I had a set on my Pathy and they nearly immediately broke my front suspension when I went wheeling. On the JGC springs, you HAVE to measure them. The spring wire thickness is key. They also need to be 9 coils tall. I found some at a local junkyard that are .58" thick, which gave me about 3" of lift.

Read the can, man. Details are all over it.

Change the fluid, drop the pan and clean the magnet off and the filter screen if possible.

Search is your friend, it's been covered many many times.

"Sucking a valve" or "dropping a valve" is what happens when a valve breaks at the stem end and drops into the combustion chamber with catastrophic results. I'd check the timing first.

A 95 IS a WD21. I don't really like the R50 front ends anyway. Meh.

Test your battery to make sure it doesn't have a dead cell or other problem. A bad battery can kill an alternator in short order.

I could have used those spindles with the nice end mounts...I've bent two so far.

Calmini is the beefiest, but also the most expensive. You can look at their kits at www.purenissan.com

Yup.

I went from 31's to 33's and boy, did it kill my ability to climb sand dunes. With 31's I made it up most everything I aimed at, with 33's it bogs down and stops most of the way up. NEED MOAR POWER

Hahaha, that's some crazy cage work on the rear. Post pics of the engine!!

Yeah...from what I've seen the 4-cyls had the smaller front and rear diffs.

Yes, the TCU uses the TPS to determine WOT and idle, shift speeds etc. Have you tried adjusting the TPS? It can be adjusted quite a bit.

I made my own out of 4mm steel plate and a cheap borrowed Lincoln 110 welder. Cost me about $10. It sleeves the stock mount and uses two very beefy bolts to attach to the stock mount. Doesn't slip, no problems yet. I think mine gives 2" of drop...at least it's closer to horizontal than it used to be.

You can get aftermarket UCA's and crank up the torsion bars, then put bigger tires on for more clearance. That's about it. I would leave the TM lift on and see how well it actually performs before just deciding you don't like the way it looks and taking it all apart. Max suspension lift in front is 7" with the TM lift and a UCA lift. After that there's only an SAS, which still doesn't help front end clearance...

We need cheaper re-gearing options. Bottom line. That's what's going to sell if the price is lower than NISMO. Are the cro-mo rear axles really necessary? Biggest tire a guy could run is about a 35 with an IFS rig and I've only ever seen two or three people break a rear axle.

3/16 should be enough, the frame's not very thick to begin with. You can attempt to remove the gas tank or simply shield it with something inflammable, which would be tons easier.

Your measurement should be correct, the FSM shows .52" as the wire diameter of stock coils. The ones I first measured were actually .50, could have been a manufacturing error? Count the coils when hunting for springs. The ones with 8 coils are NO GOOD!

I have a pair of gas-charged 27.5" length shocks from the rear of a Chevy 2500 pickup I scored at the junkyard a while ago. They worked great with the JGC coils and no swaybar.