88pathoffroad

"Sucking a valve" or "dropping a valve" is what happens when a valve breaks at the stem end and drops into the combustion chamber with catastrophic results. I'd check the timing first.

A 95 IS a WD21. I don't really like the R50 front ends anyway. Meh.

Test your battery to make sure it doesn't have a dead cell or other problem. A bad battery can kill an alternator in short order.

I could have used those spindles with the nice end mounts...I've bent two so far.

Calmini is the beefiest, but also the most expensive. You can look at their kits at www.purenissan.com

Yup.

I went from 31's to 33's and boy, did it kill my ability to climb sand dunes. With 31's I made it up most everything I aimed at, with 33's it bogs down and stops most of the way up. NEED MOAR POWER

Hahaha, that's some crazy cage work on the rear. Post pics of the engine!!

Yeah...from what I've seen the 4-cyls had the smaller front and rear diffs.

Yes, the TCU uses the TPS to determine WOT and idle, shift speeds etc. Have you tried adjusting the TPS? It can be adjusted quite a bit.

I made my own out of 4mm steel plate and a cheap borrowed Lincoln 110 welder. Cost me about $10. It sleeves the stock mount and uses two very beefy bolts to attach to the stock mount. Doesn't slip, no problems yet. I think mine gives 2" of drop...at least it's closer to horizontal than it used to be.

You can get aftermarket UCA's and crank up the torsion bars, then put bigger tires on for more clearance. That's about it. I would leave the TM lift on and see how well it actually performs before just deciding you don't like the way it looks and taking it all apart. Max suspension lift in front is 7" with the TM lift and a UCA lift. After that there's only an SAS, which still doesn't help front end clearance...

We need cheaper re-gearing options. Bottom line. That's what's going to sell if the price is lower than NISMO. Are the cro-mo rear axles really necessary? Biggest tire a guy could run is about a 35 with an IFS rig and I've only ever seen two or three people break a rear axle.

'82 Chevy G20 van. It's the only running vehicle I have now. If I ever get B paid back and have enough money for a loan, I've been considering getting rid of the fullsize van and getting a nice 90's AWD Astro van. But that's far away and in the future.

3/16 should be enough, the frame's not very thick to begin with. You can attempt to remove the gas tank or simply shield it with something inflammable, which would be tons easier.

Your measurement should be correct, the FSM shows .52" as the wire diameter of stock coils. The ones I first measured were actually .50, could have been a manufacturing error? Count the coils when hunting for springs. The ones with 8 coils are NO GOOD!

Happy birthday, Rami and all others!

Happy birthday, everybody with a birthday today!

I have a pair of gas-charged 27.5" length shocks from the rear of a Chevy 2500 pickup I scored at the junkyard a while ago. They worked great with the JGC coils and no swaybar.

That sounds like either slippage in OD or the trans computer not working correctly. Hmm. That's not to say it couldn't be fluid related, those are just the first two things that came to mind. I'm of the mindset that the fluid is meant to be changed to begin with so just change it and see what happens.

Progressive rate springs have a tighter coil at the top than at the bottom, with the spring wire diameter at the top often being smaller as well. This allows the less stiff coils at the top absorb small bumps while the larger coils at the bottom can take more compression with a stiffer rate. I already tried Ford Aerostar progressive rate coils in my Pathy...way too weak.

My Dad's giving a hand up and letting me swap a month's rent in exchange for helping paint his house. When I get paid again in two weeks I will be able to send at least $100. I have a set of PIAA 520's I wasn't using that I'm sending as well, not as partial payment, but as a gift. I'll post back with a tracking number if I can get a chance to visit the post office during the day.

I was looking into doing this too, but the hinge support bracket placement put me off...doesn't fit in without cutting up the sheetmetal, apparently. heh.

The shift kit is a cool idea but it involves a near-complete teardown and rebuild. I have one sitting on a shelf...thought I could install it myself, then I got into the instructions. There are a TON of parts to replace, re-seal and take apart. If you've done work on the internals of an automatic before and you have the tools, space, time and patience, go for it.

Happy birthday, both of ya! Red's a year and 5 months older than me.