88pathoffroad

That sounds like either slippage in OD or the trans computer not working correctly. Hmm. That's not to say it couldn't be fluid related, those are just the first two things that came to mind. I'm of the mindset that the fluid is meant to be changed to begin with so just change it and see what happens.

Progressive rate springs have a tighter coil at the top than at the bottom, with the spring wire diameter at the top often being smaller as well. This allows the less stiff coils at the top absorb small bumps while the larger coils at the bottom can take more compression with a stiffer rate. I already tried Ford Aerostar progressive rate coils in my Pathy...way too weak.

I was looking into doing this too, but the hinge support bracket placement put me off...doesn't fit in without cutting up the sheetmetal, apparently. heh.

The shift kit is a cool idea but it involves a near-complete teardown and rebuild. I have one sitting on a shelf...thought I could install it myself, then I got into the instructions. There are a TON of parts to replace, re-seal and take apart. If you've done work on the internals of an automatic before and you have the tools, space, time and patience, go for it.

OH HELL YEAH! Thanks for the pics man! This should be good stuff.

I think you have an engine problem, not a trans problem, it just happens to be more manageable at a different RPM or gear? Check the simple stuff first...vacuum lines, plug wires, cap and rotor, etc.

The E-AT switch changes the way the transmission shifts. When it is set to Auto, (or off?) it shifts normally. When it is set to the other position the transmission will down-shift sooner, hold gears for longer and help get you moving faster. For best fuel economy the switch should be set to off or Auto. OK, someone else help me out here. I don't have a 4-door and the 2-door version of the E-AT switch is a "Power" button on the shifter. It does the same thing but it's labeled "Power Shift" and the switch is either "Auto" or "Power". Is the E-AT switch on the 90-95's labeled Power and Auto too?

I think that's in the EF-EC section. Some stuff is hard to find in an FSM! Here, I found it on page EF&EC-25 in the 1994 Pathfinder FSM. Leftmost mark on the crank balancer is ZERO. Top Dead Center. Each mark to the right represents 10 degrees BTDC.

If you're experiencing detonation with the timing at 10 degrees, then maybe something in the timing train is off a little. Is it possible that the driver's side cam is one tooth off on the timing belt? That would drop back the base timing for the distributor (because it's driven by the DS cam) a little and might cause what you describe. Has the distributor ever been pulled and dropped back in? It'll run with the dizzy one tooth off but it'll be noticeably low on power. Stock timing for my 88 VG30i is 12 degrees, for the 93 it should be 15 degrees IIRC.

LOL, old Chryslers are the worst.

Switch is probably dirty or shot.

As in, the wires come directly out of the motor with no way to unplug them at all. If you can find spade connectors to fit the prongs, make sure they're heavy duty ones, or at least quality ones...that fan pulls a hell of a lot of amperage on startup and you don't want weenie crimp connectors starting fires, heh.

I bet you could score some 15" black steel wheels for around $50 each new at Les Schwab. Tirerack.com has 16" Ultra Type 62's in plain silver with 3.75" BS on sale for $69 each. 15's aren't on sale, apparently...$97. Same wheels I have. I didn't do a lot of searching, but it seems like you could probably get a set of new cheap wheels that still look good (or at least better than stock?) for about the same price as the spacers...

You can get concrete cleaner or bleach at Home Depot or Lowes. Purple Power or Castrol Super Clean does a fair job as well.

I have a 5 ton dump truck pintle hitch on my van. I'm waiting for someone to give it a love tap, heh.

All 4. It's possible the rears were replaced in yours with non-adjustable shocks.

^^^^ Seal preserves?

It shouldn't matter if OD is on. You shouldn't get grinding from 4HI to 2HI, though.

You might ask for a second opinion. Mechanics have been known to tell people they need more work than they actually do sometimes. Best way to test for bad rings is an initial compression test dry, then add several tablespoons of oil to the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do the test again. Increased compression with the addition of oil indicates poor ring sealing.

Mine did that too. I replaced the brushes in the starter for $7 and it works great.

Pull the distributor cap and crank the engine a little to see if the rotor turns. If it turns the belt is still on.

There's a reason they use yellow light in headlights. Human eyes see much better in the yellow spectrum than they do in any other, especially blue.

...which all amount to about 100 lbs tops and doesn't do anything after you've added a toolbox or eaten a large meal...

There are no cheap, easy bolt-on mods that produce a substantial amount of gains in engine power or torque. Sorry.

So you went from the equivalent of a 29.5 x 9.5 x 17 to a 31.5 x 10.5 x 16. Plus the new tread depth compared to the old worn out tires. (some tires have more tread depth than others) Gain: 2" tire height and 1" width. +6.67% larger tire compared to the old set. Loss: -7.15% speedo reading, -47 engine RPM per mile. What size tires did the Pathy have when new? I wonder if there were several optional sizes.