88pathoffroad

Does the fuse still blow with both of those relays unplugged?

I'd lay money on it being an SE mainly due to the leather seats. I've never seen an XE with factory leather seats. 88 XE: Auto, 4.6, no LSD, disc/drum, no tire carrier, non-adjustable shocks, roof rack, base model seats, no fog lights, manual windows and door locks. 89 SE: Auto, 4.6, no LSD, disc/disc, tire carrier, side steps, adjustable shocks, sun roof, roof rack, patterned cloth seats with side supports, no fog lights, PW, PDL.

It could be the switch at the pedal, yes. Check it with a flashlight (torch) maybe? Another cause could be that both bulb filaments are simply burned out, or towing wiring could be wonky, or perhaps corrosion exists in the bulb sockets.

See, this is why we're here!

Yes, if you can get the pan off you can change the solenoids out, but...you have to buy a full solenoid pack at a dealership and do all of them at the same time. I don't specifically remember how deep inside the trans those are but you definitely have to pull the pan and filter screen at the very least.

Check your fusible links at the battery. One of them feeds power to the dash and ignition. If it's loose, no ignition, no run.

The 87-89's have 27 splines and the 90-95's should be 28 spline. You're sure about the 29 spline count?

If you have access to a hydraulic press, I'd use that. Otherwise, best bet is to burn them out with a propane torch (which is smoky and messy). Those old stock bushings have a tendency to weld themselves to the UCA/LCA.

BTW, the indexing of the torsion bars have ZERO to do with front-end alignment. All that matters is where the adjusters are set and how high the ride height is. After setting the t-bars the alignment can be messed with. If the alignment cannot be set to anywhere near factory specs at that time, I would highly suspect AC sent you a sh!t pair of UCA's. As far as I know they build those things on demand and the pair I had a while back had some pretty questionable welds...maybe they sent you a set of Frontier or Xterra UCA's?

Radicalmark, stop with the crap posts please. That's enough.

Could be a shift solenoid sticking.

Check your headlight switch as well, they are common points of failure with regards to the headlights.

Obviously Josh is out of the picture now...just like the last three guys that said they would produce decals for us... Give us a while, I'm going to see about having a run of decals made for NPORA. By the way, Josh's contact info is: Technical Contact: Clark, Joshua sales@afterfxstreetdesign.com 5 Woodland Drive Bristol, Vermont 05443 United States (802) 453-3433

Shot headlight switch, shot rear wiper motor, possible lifter tick or exhaust manifold leak, and 16-17 MPG sounds good to me, I get about 10!

Check the compression rod bushings and mounts, as well as the upper and lower control arm bushings. Something has some slack in it somewhere, I think.

You'll have to swap out the pinion gear on the speed sensor to get the speedo corrected. Problem with that is the speed sensor is a REAL PITA to get to and remove. After you remove your old one you can figure out which new one you need to buy at a dealership, if they can get one.

You typed it wrong... THIS....IS.....TEXAS!!!!! heh

A nice WRX scoop would be a huge addition to a Pathy hood...

Nice mod! I picked up a newer S-10 Blazer overhead map light and Homelink control...hoping to get it working some day and maybe even use the buttons for lights or something else.

Calmini makes the one and only aftermarket panhard rod drop bracket you can buy separately. Trailmaster's 4" lift comes with a drop bracket too but I dunno about buying one separately, or if TM even still makes the lift kit. I made my own bracket that basically sleeves the stock bracket and drops the mounting hole down a couple of inches.

Ditto. Buying someone else's half-finished project can be time-consuming and expensive. If you're in the market for some of that though, go for it!

AIV = air injection valve It injects fresh air into the exhaust to produce less emissions when it's working properly.

I've used Ranchos and KYB's and never noticed much difference. 'Course, I don't really give half a crap how it rides as long as I can go places nobody else can. RS9000's really can make a big difference if you adjust them really stiff or really soft.

Sometimes the gear inside the speed sensor strips out which renders it useless. I wonder if the shop even did the service and really replaced the switch...it's notoriously hard to get to and remove. They also could have left the wiring unplugged...

Putting specific models down doesn't help, I for one have never even seen some of the lights listed much less seen the light they produce. When choosing lights, go with what you like, what will last and what will give you the light output you need for what you intend to use the lights for. Light pattern is key! Fog lights put out a wide, horizontal beam in front of you, driving lights put out a small spot of light that shines further ahead. The 85W = 100W statement is a sales pitch. 85W = 85W. Seriously? I've never seen a relay with a fuse inside. All that aside, I've always liked PIAAs, always used PIAAs, but I've seen some crazy amounts of light coming from KC's, Pro-Comps, Hellas, Lightforce, etc...I'd own a set of Lightforce lights...adjustable focus, interchangeable lenses, mmmmmmm.