88pathoffroad

One thing you may want to take into consideration is the amount of light spray you're going to get through your sunroof. I had lights on my roof right at the front above the windshield and I couldn't see crap at night with them on because they shed so much light down onto the windshield.

How much space is there under your upper control arm bumpstop?

There is a wire mesh screen inside the pan for the pickup and several mesh screens inside the trans itself. That's about it.

Sometimes the front frame to crossmember bolts need tightening. Those are the four bolts on the sides of the front diff crossmember. When they loosen up it will move slightly and make a popping or grating noise. The turn stops for the knuckles can also make a grating metallic noise...there are plastic caps that go on the ends of the turn stops. After time they break and/or fall off, resulting in metal-on-metal contact which can produce noise when you turn the steering wheel all the way one direction or the other. Give them some more grease and see if the noise stops. There could also be a problem with the tension rods (aka compression rods) that bolt to the frame and to your lower control arm in the front suspension. The tension rod bushings have a nasty habit of loosening up, then making the hole bigger and letting in water to create rust. This can cause some noise as well as loose or sloppy feeling suspension. Hard turning can be an alignment issue or a steering box issue. I'd try to find the source of the noise first.

No, the yellow one should be engine oil. The trans check stick is on the passenger's side near the back of the engine.

Sounds like they got the wrong hubs in the box. They should at least match up on the bolt holes. Count the splines inside the hub, how many are there?

You'd be better off to find Rough Country upper control arms. The AC control arms are poorly engineered, poorly built and don't do the job they advertise.

Who have you known that has had any kind of body lift problem? I've never heard of anyone with a Pathfinder body lift problem except for the install...

Yup. 33's put me at a disadvantage for everything but crawling in 4LO. It kills your power on the road and kills your ability to climb sand and steep inclines. I think I'll be going back to 31's eventually.

The FSM shows it's location but not specifically how to remove it. Here: http://nissan.damagedreality.com/FSM/ha-2.jpg http://nissan.damagedreality.com/FSM/ha-3.jpg

Run the ECU error codes first.

Alternately, I think you could take off the brakes and disconnect the e-brake cable from the brakes, that would get you some more droop if the cables are what's holding you up. The HF spring compressor works fine as well. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...Itemnumber=3980

Only problem is you can't get Nissan diesel parts in the US...or certainly not for cheap.

Have a close look at your steering components from underneath. Sounds like something is binding up under loads.

Here are some pics of my factory service manual for an 88, I don't think much changed for wiring color and setup aside from adding a daytime running light module for Canadian models, etc. Main powering diagram http://nissan.damagedreality.com/FSM/el6.jpg Headlight wiring http://nissan.damagedreality.com/FSM/el38.jpg Exterior clearance, license, tail and stop lights wiring http://nissan.damagedreality.com/FSM/el42.jpg Exterior turn signal and hazard wiring http://nissan.damagedreality.com/FSM/el46.jpg Let me know if you'd like anything else.

I'd definitely try changing the fluid. Do you have an aftermarket external trans fluid cooler installed? If not, GET ONE. The stock cooler clogs up over time and kills the transmission. These aren't cheap trannies, either.

Mine started leaking from the sector shaft seal long ago. It gradually got bad enough that the fluid would actually pour out faster than I could pour it in. Had to find a junkyard steering box and swap it in. $100

http://www.myspace.com/fullmetalpathfinder There ya go.

I don't see a need to debate it so fiercely, alex. You get more flies with honey...

For an R50, you have to buy the lift kit. There are no cheap lifts for the unibody 96-04 models.

It was white material to begin with. Same stuff, yep.

No, an open diff has nothing but gears in it. There is nothing inside to lock. It's just that if traction is approximately equal to both tires they will both spin until one loses traction more than the other. A limited slip diff has clutch discs, friction plates and springs stacked sideways in between the side gears that provide an outward pressure on the side gears which has a tendency to press the side gears together, making both turn at the same time. The clutches are there to allow slippage in a controlled fashion. In a tight LSD, the clutches will not slip very much at all, meaning that when you hit the gas you will spin both tires most of the time. If the clutches and springs wear out or lose tension, the clutches slip against each other more, which lets one wheel or the other spin just like in an open diff. Open diff explanation and video: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential2.htm Clutch-type limited slip page: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential4.htm

I made my own TB spacers out of 3/8" UHMWPE and cut-to-fit gasket material. The new TBI base studs were hard to find and spendy! ($5 each x4) I didn't notice any difference after adding them. Meh.

Bottom line, the LSD in R50's is really weak to begin with. If you do have a LSD, it's about 50% weaker than the ones in a WD21 IIRC. I have no clue why they did that. An open diff can and will spin BOTH tires if traction is equal to both tires. I've done it numerous times on gravel, in sand and even on dry pavement.

I did some research a while back on TB spacers. The reported gains versus the actual gains have not been proven in any way shape or form EXCEPT by the manufacturer, and what would they have to gain by falsifying dyno sheets or power increases? Any time I saw a dyno before/after test they always did it with several mods, not JUST the addition of a spacer. Like, "Oh, we added a NEW EXHAUST and a TB spacer and gained 14 HP!!!" RIIIIIGHT.