88pathoffroad

The timing belt on a 94 should be changed every 105,000 miles. Welcome to the NPORA forums!

I think the vaporization effect is pretty minimal, even considering the internal volume of the tank.

It's an 80's Chevy truck MC. IIRC all you have to do is redrill the mounting holes and then adapt the brake line ends to the Chevy size. Don't get a hydroboost MC, it's totally different.

I seem to remember seeing some stuff about the PCV valve blowing enough crap into the intake to cause the left side cylinders to carbon up more than the right side. It may be crap in the rings or on the valves, or perhaps the cam on that side is wearing more than the other one? Hmmm. I hate mystery problems that require tearing apart the engine to diagnose.

Did you try wiggling the output shaft a bit when it was up close but not going forward? I hate alignment issues with transmissions, they're so damn heavy and difficult to maneuver...

It might be that the UCA's are in fact too short to allow you to lift it at all and still have it aligned properly. Still have a stock UCA laying around you can compare measurements with? Try measuring from the center of the spindle (as close as you can get) to the center of the upper BJ hole.

I have a pair of hood grilles from an early 80's turbo Dodge Daytona I want to set in my hood some day if possible. You know what else would look cool is an Isuzu Impulse RS scoop...kinda small but still. I think it's an AAMRAM type.

I would start with fuel first. Do you get fuel at the TBI? Do the injectors spray after you turn the key and crank it? KISS, start simple. Since the last thing you worked on was the TBI, start there.

I've thought about how to reduce CV angles on the stock IFS as well and the best/cheapest solution I came up with was to drop the diff as much as you can. Which isn't much, cuz the CV's will hit the torsion bars.

The trans CAN make a whirring noise if it's got something wrong with it. Mine did when it blew. Steady whine/brrrrrr noise.

Congrats man! Took ya long enough!

Hey Steve: you kick ass for getting this set up.

lol I was working on dismantling an old loading dock a while back and found some candy boxes and Twinkies wrappers with prices still on 'em...Whoppers for 20 cents and Twinkies, two for 25 cents...Nestle Crunch bar for 10 cents...old stuff is cool.

The switch is what's going to heat up on you. I've had more switches die from not using a relay than anything else. Melted fuses, too. Here's a website with a lot of correct, useful info on how to wire stuff using a relay and WHY. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

IIRC it says "instrumentation" for the gauges, doesn't it?

Mine is a Yakima rack with roof rest mount and extenders (cuz I have a 2-door). It clips to the sheetmetal above the doors, then has extender bars going back along the roof to another set of towers that just rest on the roof. I can grab the rack from either side and shake the whole Pathy with it, it's pretty damn solid. I scored that baby at the junkyard for $50. The towers alone cost $110 a pair brand new! I made my own front light bar out of a piece of 1"x3" steel. Simple install: drill holes, bolt to extender bars, bolt lights on.

Brian: It worked fine. Thanks a lot. Holy crap, Mark. Thanks a ton man! A big thanks to EVERYONE ELSE as well...I couldn't do this without you all!

I would ask the kind people at AC that "engineered" those UCA's if they have any ideas as well. For aftermarket lift UCA's AC certainly makes the worst ones on the market even though they talk a string of crap about how cool they are. I've had AC, Superlift and stock UCA's all side by side and the AC UCA's were the poorest built, with the closest angles to stock. Take some pics for us?

Perhaps you could use a cheap spring compressor to compress the springs a little before install. It should bolt together OK that way.

Looks like you have it handled, man! I did mine in the driveway with one jack, some 2x4 and two jackstands. It took a while but it was worth it.

I've tried both kinds. They both suck. I think a better fix would be to take in your knuckles and centerlink and have them reamed to fit something more common and beefy like Chevy or Ford tie rods, whichever comes closer to stock size. I know that moves the steering weakness to the next weakest part, but after repeatedly hammering tie rods straight on a rock on the side of a trail it might be worth it. If the house brand has a warranty, KEEP THE PAPERWORK and trade 'em in when they get slopped out.

As always, if you have an auto, get an external trans fluid cooler and do NOT use the stock cooler. Flush the fluid and bypass the stock cooler. I'd try a fluid change first and see if it helps. A long pause between gears is a bad sign as far as I know.

are too I've seen a unlocked, open diffed HB pickup spin all 4 tires on sand. Repeatedly. Seriously.

I've had K&N filters on many cars and trucks over the years and never had a problem. Maybe it only happens to other people?

Hell yeah, you're welcome.