88pathoffroad

Jaos still makes stuff for Nissans, eh? Interesting.

Which ZJ coils did you get? .52"....54"....56"....58"? Just wondering.

Ohhhh, I get it now. You're looking for a larger MAF housing to see if it helps with power. The sensor itself makes no difference to power output. Some people have tried using a larger throttlebody and/or enlarging the MAF housing but it just doesn't make enough difference to make it worthwhile.

The reason headers for Xterras won't work is that the R50 has pre-cats at the ends of the exhaust manifolds. There's a big round flange on the pre-cat that bolts to the mannies. They don't even come close to fitting. Take a look under your hood some time, you'll see what I mean.

An aftermarket remanned (or even new) MAF sensor isn't an upgrade AFAIK. Your best bet is to drop the cash on an OEM part if you need one. Second best bet: working OEM used parts.

Meh, it was an idea I got from my uncle and a few other websites. The idea is that the clean propane flame and controlled heat helps eliminate excess crud inside. I have no idea if it helped or not, lol. The method I used was to remove the O2 sensor, then using a propane torch heat the tip to just about red-hot; try to keep it at that color for about 15 seconds before letting it cool a bit. A final brush-off and blow-off and a reinstall is the rest. I'm unsure about soaking O2 sensors in any kind of solvents, I wouldn't try it. They're not designed to be dunked in liquid, they're designed to react with hot gases.

I've found that a doubled-up zip tie around the chrome shaft works OK unless the strut is completely dead. When you shut the hatch the ziptie slides up the shaft, then when you open the hatch just slide the ziptie back the other way to the cylinder. The small amount of friction presented by the zip tie on the shaft helps weak struts stay up.

The tire carrier only attaches to the body, don't worry about it. For the rear bumper, you can simply move it up a notch into the next bolt hole, buy some new bolts and it's done. When the bumper's off you'll be able to see what I mean about simply bumping it up a hole.

The trans has no vacuum lines, and a dead/dying battery can cause shifting problems due to the trans not getting enough voltage. Get your charging system checked asap!

Brake proportioning valve.

I think you're thinking of the knock sensor, which an 87 does not have. The temp sensors for the 87 are right up front, they don't cost too much and they're fairly easy to change.

Sealing shock boots doesn't work. They move way too much, plus the boots come with drain holes in them already, generally speaking. I just plain took the boots off, they work fine that way.

You need a flare nut wrench for removing the brake lines. A single 10mm shouldn't cost more than 5 bucks or so at a hardware store or auto parts store. When you get a new MC, you have to bench bleed it to get all the air bubbles out, instructions will come with a new MC. Rockauto.com has MC's for either $40 or $48 new.

Could be a bad wax choke (thermo element), O2 sensor, temp sensor, and I'd suggest pulling the heater blower fan to remove debris and make sure it's not blocked. Early WD21's are notorious for running rich when cold. Have you tried checking the ECU error codes yet?

I've seen some people say they have no CEL on the non-CA emissions-equipped WD21's. No idea why.

Did you guys see the "dyno sheet"?? Pooper charger! lolol ...that should tell you how it works right there.

I just stuck mine on top cuz the pic was already the right size. It's not anything special. I was the first TOTM, so I get top rank? lol YAY PEZZY!! The banner and everything looks GREAT!! What would we do without you?

Should be on the wiper motor. Mine has one, it's a 2"x2" brown box on the front of the wiper motor.

The pressure regulator is under the hood, if you want to take a poke at testing that. I'd run the error codes first.

Woohoo! You two did a great job on everything. Thank you so much! Sheeeeit, now we all look professional an' stuff...lol

Advance Adapters USED to make one, but they were hideously expensive and hard to find. Like... ~$1000

How much?

We'll move things in as we find them. No worries!

Everyone say thank you to Steeve-O for suggesting this Fab forum. Here it is!

The CV's don't spin in 2WD, so if you're experiencing this in 2WD it is likely tire balance, tire wear or worn steering.