88pathoffroad

You can always just use some washers to space out the hood hinges and lift it up in the rear. I remember some people doing this in the past and it helped with cooling while on trail runs, etc. You have to make a few adjustments to the hood latch but otherwise it's really easy to do.

There is no way for the pitman arm to be "loose" aside from having loosened the nut underneath it, which I would be worried about! The pitman arm has ZERO moving parts. I would rotate tires first to see if it's the tires, then check steering parts for looseness.

I fail to see how 15" wheels can make your brake pads fail quicker aside from not letting enough air in to cool the brakes. As long as the wheels don't rub the brakes they should be perfectly fine.

Making tight turns in 4LO on hard surfaces is a NO-NO. The t-case locks front and rear diffs together and when turning, the outside wheel spins quite a lot more than an inside wheel, hence the binding or 'hopping" feel. Take it out of 4WD.

You can always space the hood hinges out a bit with some spacers or washers if it's just barely touching.

I've seen others use a 240SX wheel. No clue on CC operation but I bet it'd be fairly easy to make it work out OK.

Nice...does the hood fit with the SC sticking up?

I went from 31's to 33's and never had any VSS problems aside from the speedo being off.

I had KYB Gas-A-Justs on my Impulse, they were awesome. Some cars came stock with KYB's, they're a pretty good shock for everyday driving.

Could be shocks, worn swaybar end links, shot tension rod bushings, lots of things. Try to narrow it down before buying new parts, it's always a disappointment when you spend money and it doesn't fix your problem. Does it sway side to side too much? Does it bounce too much? Does it steer funny? Only in 4WD or in 2WD? etc..

I didn't have fender flares when I bought mine. I think WD21's look way better with the flares on. Plus they help deflect mud and rocks from thrashing the sides.

I vote for longer UCA spindle bolts and a ton of shims to fix the problem. Are the spindle bolts tight as it sits? With zero shims it will do that when using the AC UCA's.

Sounds like you burned the clutch pretty good. Did it smell like hot metal or hot brakes? That's what burnt clutch smells like.

Nice work man! It's always good to see someone innovate and create what they want instead of just asking everyone else for how to do it.

Open the windows and freeze his ass out? Check the blower housing, he might have a nest inside.

I witnessed a fairly major screw-up from Les Schwab once...bucket truck went in for tires. Came back and drove around for half a day before both dually tires on one side in the rear came completely off and rolled on down the hill. They broke 6 out of 8 lugs off completely and it took half a day's driving to break the remaining two studs that were left. It's beyond me how you can break studs off and not notice, but hey...8 broken studs on one wheel says something went wrong at the shop. They paid for towing and repair.

The steering is a weak link. Calmini's steering is good and so is a modded centerlink from HooHaa.

The CA ECU is equipped on vehicles with an exhaust gas temp sensor and all the emissions controls that you'd expect on a Cali model. Dunno about the map in the ECU, I bet it just has an extra line or two to deal with the EGT sensor and emissions operation, etc. I have a spare 89 ECU. It's probably a Cali model. I'd have to find it in the garage and look up the serial.

True. Your fuel pressure regulator should be next to the fuel filter. (he has the VG30i, not the VG30E) To be honest, these problems sound like either an injector problem or the MAF not working right. I dunno why it works fine in park tho. Weird problem.

My thoughts: Most people that drive Pathfinders aren't skilled enough to mess with de-soldering the chip, much less programming a new one and troubleshooting the fuel map. One screw-up and you have to buy a new/used ECU... Most Pathfinders are still stock. Headers and cams work well with ECU upgrades but for a stock vehicle an ECU upgrade is generally too expensive with too small of a return. Please prove me wrong! Pathfinders aren't performance vehicles, hence the small following. Performance cars get all the good stuff!

Personally, I think it has more to do with the altitude than with the O2 sensor. The O2 could read wrong due to the thin air, triggering the CEL...could be that the sensor is fine but the thin air was too much for the ECU to calculate values for. Mine always did run poorly in the mountains and at high elevations. As far as I know there's nothing on the engine or in the ECU that compensates for elevation, only the feedback from the MAF, O2 and TPS. A turbo or supercharger would fix that problem.

You should have the cable-driven speedo if you saw a square-drive poking out of a cable housing behind your cluster. You can switch to an electronically-driven speedo but getting to the speed sensor and removing it is tough for most people. Adding an aftermarket tachometer is fairly easy, you just have to find a place to mount it that doesn't bother you.

Do you have the high-speed wire connected as your main fan speed when it turns on? High speed pulls +/- 30 amps to start but evens out after it starts.

lol, the e-brake is purely mechanical, no vacuum required. Check for vacuum leaks. Test to see if it does it only when you step on the brakes, etc.

PIAA 1500 driving lights. PIAAs always make a huge difference. The 1500 is rectangular just like your old lights and they produce LOTS more light. I've owned about 4 sets of 1500's and have yet to be disappointed by them. You can get driving or fog style in that series, driving lights produce a rounded spot of light further ahead of you and fog produces a narrow horizontal beam of light closer to you. The 1500's are the smaller lower lights on the front of my Pathy. Mine are driving lights with the ion yellow lenses.