88pathoffroad

That should give the codes. Turning the knob one way and not the other way just puts it in Select Mode, I think.

Actually, it was 154 HP and 180 ft-lb of torque for the VG30E. VG30i's were rated at 145 HP.

Maybe you could un-wire them, remove the evidence of them ever having worked, take pics and show them to the judge...

I'd like to see pics of that one...Chevys use huge torsion bars. hehe

I've never looked at one beside a Pathy ECU but IIRC I heard somewhere that the plugs are different and you'd have to splice everything together to get it to work.

You could try laying underneath the back end and having someone beefy give the rear bumper some bounces...watch the control arm bushings and whatever else moves, that might help ID the problem area.

Nope, doesn't work that way. You can't disco internal engine parts. They can simply wire a switch to one injector and flip it off when they want to save gas...might trigger a CEL tho.

When I had the wrecked 89 Pathy, I found that it had a 300Z VG30 in it with the exact same problem...the guy simply strung v-belts on the grooved pulley and ran it. Apparently it worked, for a while...

http://www.phatG20.net

Being out in the sticks in SA really puts the ki-bosh on ordering parts, doesn't it?

I just stuck some faux sheepskin covers on the seats, nice and cushy now!

The max you can get out of the front is a little more than 3". The higher you go, the less downtravel the front suspe4nsion will have, the rougher it will ride and it will be more likely to break CV's.

3-cyl Geo Metros have been known to get 70 MPG without hydrogen, heh.

What is it, H233B 2-pinion, H233B 4-pinion, C200 and....hm. Oh, JUST the diff in the centersection? Ahhhh.

Auto or manual? PICS help.

Just like the old ones, can side down. Piston rod side goes up. No instructions in the box?

Martin: when I worked at Knecht's Auto parts I saw tons of greasy starters and alternators come out of new boxes shipped direct from the supplier. I don't doubt for one second that what you just described happens every day. Once I bought some rotors for the van that were so warped, straight out of the box, they couldn't shave 'em down and make them useable. They got sent back and I got a refund. The next week I went to a different parts store for a cheaper price and I got the exact same pair in new boxes. I was PISSED. They still had my blue Ford axle grease on the inside of the races and dirty fingerprints on 'em.

Are we talking about Brown's gas generators again? 'Cuz from what I've seen on Youtube alone you'd have to build an electrolysis chamber as big as your whole cargo area to even produce enough gas for it to idle on, much less drive at any kind of speed. Not to put a ka-bosh on your idea, it'd be really cool if you get something out of it!

That's a really good question, I've never had a LSD next to an open diff to compare those with.

What're you saying, Martin?? "Any dumbass can rebuild a starter...look, 88 did it, there's proof" lol

I took mine apart, stuck new brushes in it and it's been working great to this day.

By the way, you can get a package deal from 4WheelParts.com for all 4 shocks PLUS a steering stabilizer for $150 or so. I wouldn't drop $60 EACH on Rancho 5000's if I could get all 4 with the SS for cheaper. Pro-Comp ES3000's plus SS, $141.95, very close to Rancho 5000's. Pro-Comp ES9000's plus SS, $149.95, dunno how they compare to Ranchos but they have a 9 in the product number, it must mean they're better! Personally I'd roll the Pro-Comp shocks, I've never heard anything bad about them. http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kits-Suspe...amp;t_pt=100423

http://www.phatg20.net has all the FSM's you could ever want to download.

Shoot, with a pulley in the middle that winch could definitely help in small stuck situations.

It really IS that easy. Takes a 17mm and a 19mm wrench IIRC. I've always unbolted the panhard rod lower mount to get the driver's side shock off. There's nothing complicated at all about it. That mechanic would have made MONEY off of you!