88pathoffroad

Personally, I'd go to a car wash, get a bottle of Purple Power degreaser and pressure wash everything underneath and in that area to clean it up and make it easier to work on.

Swaybar end link. Needs to be re-welded to the frame.

What configuration did you use? How many amps? What did you use for electrolyte? Any measurements on output? ...so we now have ONE person claiming it to work and no proof to back it up with. Any more takers? I'd really like it to work, I just don't see definitive proof from anyone. Should we submit the idea to Mythbusters and get them to try it? Mmk...let's try to hash this out. A 3.0L V6 engine consumes roughly 3 liters of air every 24 revolutions. At idle (700 RPM) the engine will rotate at 11.6 revolutions per second, consuming roughly 1.4-1.5 liters of air per second. A smallish, car-portable 4-plate 12V 15-20 amp hydrogen unit can produce around .0167 liters per second of Brown's gas. That's one liter per MINUTE. You're adding a nearly MICROSCOPIC amount of Brown's gas to the total consumed by the engine, AT IDLE. Let's note that the electrolysis cell does not speed up with RPM's, so the ratio goes down even further with increased engine speed. You see where I'm going with this and why I don't believe this stuff until it's been proven to work, don't you?

The anchor is stripped if it's popping out.

Dude seriously, there's no need to ask the same question in three different threads.

At least 2 grand, probably more.

Ballpark: $2000 minimum. I've seen $5000 SAS'es...

Did you swap the whole third member or just the LSD case?

I guess so, yeah.

Just don't hose a whole can through the intake and then try to start it.

Most of the reason we're no help from the US is that we got very few inline 6 Nissans except a few in International Scouts and 280Z's, etc.

You may have to search for a decently-priced brushguard or push bar, companies seem to have forgotten that WD21's exist. Decals: you can have 'em custom made at any of a large number of sign shops, decal shops, Ebay, what have you. Fog lights? Any 4x4 parts website or Ebay again. I've scored many a set of PIAAs on Ebay for VERY CHEAP. Running boards: what for? Heh.

The only place to get Pro-Comp shocks is 4wheelparts.com or a 4WheelParts shop. Or Ebay.

http://www.rasta4x4usa.com/pathfinder.aspx Full set is around $830. All 6mm aluminum. Comments?

I can't really think of any reason for CV boots to tear apart if you're not really wheeling it, not lifted and they're new...

'78-86 or so on the front Ford coils. Beware though, the only reason they give lift is because they're a much higher spring rate than stock. They end up being shorter than stock and can fall out if you flex the rear far enough.

Alternator's going. Have it tested before it strands you on the side of the road somewhere...I've had it happen, you'll just be driving along and it'll peter out and die and roll to a stop.

The wheelwells are designed to fit 31's with a MINIMUM of clearance. My 31's used to rub before I lifted it. 33's will eat sheetmetal when the suspension cycles. There's just not enough room.

Basics: to lift the front, crank up the torsion bars. Aftermarket upper control arms are for correcting the angles of the suspension and allow it to be properly aligned afterward. To lift the rear, get new coil springs or install spacers on the stock springs. Longer shocks in the rear aid rear axle articulation, stock length front shocks work fine because front suspension travel doesn't increase when lifted. Remove or disconnect swaybars for max suspension travel when wheeling. 31" tires fit fine on stock WD21's (87-95), to fit 33's without rubbing and tearing up tires/sheetmetal a 3" body lift and a 3" suspension lift is recommended. I ran 33x10.5's on my Pathy with only a 3" body lift for a while but 3+3 is the best ticket to prevent problems and excessive fender trimming.

For those of us wishing to try out the old SLR-style diff drop bushings: Energy Suspension is making them and has them for sale CHEAP. SLR used to have the monopoly on these poly bushings (and sold them at the hideous price of $150 a set). Since SLR went out of business, Energy is selling them for $42. Diff drop bushings are made to drop the front diff by about 5/8 inch. This helps when you're running aftermarket UCA's with low-profile bumpstops for max travel. With the diff in stock location it tends to pull the CV's apart more than they're supposed to be at full droop and allow them to destroy themselves. No word yet on a positive install on a WD21 Pathfinder, but someone with a HB has installed them and says they work great. From NissanOffroad.net:

Check the codes, check to make sure the O2 sensor is actually plugged in...

How much lift do you have on the front?

Ew, ouch. Pull the plugs and crank it over to make sure you don't have excess water inside. The 02 sensor may be fouled due to burnt coolant or the plugs may need touching up to make sure they're OK...

Sounds like worn brushes in the starter. That's a classic symptom. Older Chevys are notorious for it. I'd check the starter wiring at the starter, the battery terminals and cables first. KISS!

They're screwed in from the inside, so you'd have to take the dash all apart to get them out. They do pop out if you're lucky, there's a little plastic stub on top and bottom but the plastic doesn't flex, it tends to just break.