88pathoffroad

Could also be a brake caliper with seized slide pins.

Ebay, and I think you'd be lucky to find them in KPH.

Mine used to be a damn donut spare. It was ridiculously small.

New How-To article posted in the Garage: How To section. Enjoy!

This How-To applies to all WD21 Pathfinders from 87-95. http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/Campingart/nistail/ In case the link goes dead... What you'll need - A trip to the Nissan dealer - you will need 2 Pins (P/N E7245-41G60) and 4 Bushings (P/N E7247-416G0) - Don't believe the Nissan parts guy - the listing for my 91 showed only 2 bushings total, not 4. I ended up making two trips - my own fault for not knowing more than him! Tools - No sissy stuff here. You'll need a good air or electric grinder, hammers, some metric sockets, a few punches, and some quality grease. You may also wish to have a good drill (or drill press) with a ½" carbide or tungsten bit, and an air chisel. Oh, and you'll need a helper for a few seconds during the job. Time - This should *should* only take about an hour, mine took longer, I'll go into detail later about my horror. Process - Remove carrier, grind or drill out pins, pound out bushings, install and grease new hardware. Put it back together. Space - You'll need a workbench to place the entire carrier on. Step 1 - Remove spare tire (duh..) and open carrier Step 2 - Remove the bolts you can see on the passenger side of the beast Step 3 - Loosen the bottom bolts first on the rear of the truck, then loosen the upper ones. Step 4 - Remove one of each bolt, be careful. Step 5 - Get someone to help you, and have them support the weight of the tire carrier as you remove the lower bolt, and then the upper bolt. Be careful, the carrier is heavier than it looks on the end that bolts to the body. Don't let it smash or scratch the body. Step 6 - Remove the carrier. Step 7 - I started with the mushroom ends - I used my grinder to make an "X" in the head, and then feather it off. I did (and you will) have to grind into the bracket (just a hair). Keep track of which side is up. You CAN reinstall the brackets upside-down or get them mixed up. Do one at a time. Step 8 - Once it ground down, use a punch, or air chisel and pound out the old pin. Step 9 - Use the punch again and pound out the old bushings. Step 9.5 - (optional) - Primer and paint the brackets where you had to grind them. Sand blasting them might be nice.... Step 10 - I added grease to the bushings and the new pin, and installed them, pay attention to the tabs on the bushings. Tap them in *gently* with a hammer. I broke the head off of one when I was hitting it. Not a big deal, I think they are brittle. It's a tight fit. Note the grease point, make sure its clear - later down the road this is where grease (with a pin style injector) can be injected into the joint. Step 11 - Do the same for the other one, and then get your friend to put the carrier back on. I found it was easy to have the carrier locked into its latch. I did the left body mounts first, then the rear ones. Get all the bolts started before you torque them down. Torque bolts to 50 Ft/Lbs.

LPG is liquefied petroleum gas.

Pics of the problem would help.

I have no idea how the stock rev limiter could be removed unless you have a modded ECU. The values for rev limit are hard-wired into the ECU. Yoszi, chill out. Jesus.

I wrecked a MOOG arm once. Took one day. After I pulled it off, it spun around on the bracket like a New Year's razzer. Totally not worth the hype or money.

The stock rev limiter kicks in way before 7000 RPM.

Spark plug indexing won't help on low-compression everyday engines. It has minimal effect on anything other than race engines from what I hear.

Lee from L&P used to make adjustable cam gears. He cut the center out of stock gears and fabbed slotted centersections for them that let you adjust valve timing in 2 degree increments.

Conserve momentum. Inflate your tires. Reduce your weight. Accelerate slowly. Use cruise control when possible on flat ground. Do a tune-up. Clean your MAF sensor and throttlebody. All these things can help mileage. Google "hypermiling" for some more ideas.

Some 86-87's had the 3-speed. All other autos have the same 4-speed OD automatic. crward: you're ABSOLUTELY sure you're in 2WD? The only way I can imagine being in 4th gear at 35 MPH is in 4-LO. The standard gearing in the diffs, transmission and t-case simply aren't set up to be that low in 2WD. Either you're stuck in 4-LO or....I dunno.

Dayum, man. What an asshole! Good catch!

I've seen people put the 96-97 hood on a WD21 Pathy. Works fine.

LSD/discs were separate options. I have an open diff that came from an 89 with discs.

Try adjusting it first. Check the wiring plug as well for corrosion or poor connection. The TPS is on the back of the throttlebody facing the firewall.

87-89 VG30i O2 sensors are 3-wire heated sensors. I think there's only one sensor on 90-95 VG30E's, too. The 4-cyl sensor may be a two-wire sensor, I don't remember.

Ignition coil. I would also try cleaning the MAF sensor and the EGR valve. Check vacuum lines for leaks also. All cheap and easy.

Mine touches the crossmember at times too. I've been planning to mess with that some day. I would probably cut a notch out of the xmember, then weld an angled/gusseted plate across the bottom below the cut-out to keep it laterally sound.

Remove old hubs, put new hubs on. It's easy.

If a hub were stuck, it might be possible that the CV's would still spin in 2WD. Otherwise the auto hubs should allow the CV's to be stationary in 2WD.

You chose a Pathy to SAVE money on gas? Wow, you must be the first. I'd look for an aftermarket manifold and have it installed by someone you trust. Check pricing, it may not be as bad as you think.

They set it to factory specs for camber, caster and toe. Otherwise you'd have terribly uneven tire wear.