88pathoffroad

My JGC coils were $10 each at the junkyard.

He's a Nissan tech IIRC, so probably the FSM.

The imports are Terranos, and the US never got ANY Nissan diesels, hence the missing info on Wiki.

What year, what axles?

Make sure the needle isn't touching the face of the gauges? If it's bent slightly it could stick when it touches.

Hit up phatG20.net for a free download of the FSM.

If it's already whining, who knows. At least it stays in gear and doesn't pop out, eh? I'd add the extra lube just for insurance and see if it perhaps quiets down a little?

No. I have no alignment problems with mine besides steering/suspension components wearing out or bending. I had zero problems picking out my JGC coils. I took a cheap plastic measuring caliper with me, measured and pulled the ones I wanted. Places that pull the parts for you need to measure coil wire thickness before pulling them to ensure you get the right coils. It's a perfectly reasonable request IMHO.

Wiggle the wiring plug a little and see if it comes on. Could be a burnt socket with a poor connection.

The cam may be stripping out where the distributor mates with it. I've heard of that happening before.

Ew, there's an inner seal aside from the axle bearing seal? Lame.

Where are you finding propane conversions for $600?? As far as I've seen they run from $1300-1800.

What year is your Terrano? They supposedly fixed this problem in 96.

I've sat the Pathy in a hot spring with the tailpipe under water and it never filled up the muffler. Weird. *brble brble brble*

Er, no. As far as I know they're stock Nissan uppers.

You missed a line there, unccpathy. To do the axle seal in the rear requires pulling an axleshaft out of the axle. You have to remove the wheel, then the brake caliper/disc/drum, e-brake cable aaaaaand...I think that's about it. Pull the axle, pull the seal, tap new seal in, put axle back in and bolt everything back up. It's not that bad if you have the tools. I've done it before.

What's 0325, the knock sensor? I'd say at least 75% of the Pathys out there will give you that code if you scan it. The knock sensors on these things are just craptastic.

I would think they need to be tacked on to keep the bushings from moving around too much.

The Calmini brace is the strongest, best designed brace for the idler arm. The more common 4x4Parts.com L-style braces are still susceptible to bending. The big flat plate under the idler arm really reinforces the whole thing. When I get a chance I'm making my own Calmini style brace.

I would screw the plug carefully back into the hole and attempt to use a long thin-bladed screwdriver to pop loose the crush gasket that's stuck to the hole. Blow out the hole before removing the plug, that way crud won't fall into the cylinder and damage anything. If you lube everything up the crud has more of a chance of sticking to the plug, then falling off into the cylinder when you pull it out. Everything should blow out if it stays dry. Some plugs do not come with a crush gasket, are you absolutely sure they're stuck in the heads?

Doesn't say anything about 'em. Sorry. Other people are using a pair of big bearing races(?) IIRC to replace the rusted cups.

Coil count on ZJ (Grand Cherokee) is 9. Coil count on XJ's is 8. I've never seen an XJ in the junkyard with 9 coil front springs.

Problem with the "supply and demand" theory is that demand hasn't gone up as much as the price has in recent years. Demand: Prices:

Yeah, their setup includes new t-bars IIRC, which you use to simply crank up the front a little.

It replaced the stock centerlink with one that doesn't allow torsional flex, which lets the tie rods bend themselves unto umbrella handles. With little to no torsional twist, the tie rods live longer and your steering doesn't need adjustments/alignment after every trail run. Heims are about 100% stronger than tie rods. The whole idea is to strengthen the steering so it will take abuse better.