88pathoffroad

I think you mean a 305 or a 350. Have you been talking to gearheads at the dragstrip lately? That wouldn't be a good combo for low-speed trail running. Considering Pathys come with either 4.3 or 4.6 gearing already, no need to go down a step to 4.10's. Also, a 700R4 4-speed OD would be MUCH better for on-road MPG's AND off-road crawling. The 700R4 has a granny low first gear that the TH350 doesn't even come close to matching.

The front diff always spins even when you are in 2WD. Stock R50's have drive flanges that are always locked, so when you're in motion the CV's turn and the diff spins along with them.

What's wrong with your pitman arm? Those are pretty damn beefy to begin with and there are no moving parts to contend with...

That is the cat's air injection line. It goes from the AIV case up front on the driver's side, to the cat. Allowing a small amount of fresh air into the cat at normal operating temps helps unburned fuel combust more completely. It is an emissions part.

Auto or manual?

Matt sold his Pathy a long time ago and I think he moved.

I've seen worse. MUCH worse.

I broke a set of the stock Nissan hubs once...the internal gear ring stripped out for some reason. HB trucks got those, I found them at a junkyard. AFAIK there are still like three or four sets out there.

You need more padding on the clutch plate firewall pass-through...a few vibrations, a few wires rubbing against bare metal and pow, no power or fried wiring...

Yes, several people, and recently. I suggest searching a bit...

The balancer has one key and the timing pulley has one. They all do AFAIK.

Do you have the torsion bar and anchor off? Looks like the bolt head is right behind that, inside the frame bit that the LCA bolts to. The FSM shows a bolt there, nothing special.

Actually, the manifolds don't have threads. The heads have the threads. That's a tight, dirty, tough job.

Woops, my bad. The starter's out of my Pathy and all the wiring's unplugged so I didn't have it to look at for reference.

More details, please...

By the way, mine was doing the same thing for quite some time, going off by itself and whatnot...pulled up the carpet on the driver's side under the seat and what do you know, a heavily corroded ground wire for the alarm. Fixed that and it's worked perfectly ever since.

I have the owner's manual for that available for download... Found it in a junkyard glove box. http://nissan.damagedreality.com/vssmanual...anVSSmanual.zip

That's your starter solenoid trigger wire. Mine has the same plug but no boot. Needs to be plugged in for the starter to work IIRC.

From experience with cheap small power inverters, I'd suggest going with a somewhat midrange price and power rating. 300 watts might sound like a lot, but running a TV and laptop at the same time will heat that puppy up something awful, which shortens the life of the inverter bit by bit. 500 watts is a nice round number. I couldn't recommend any brands in particular but I wasted a Coleman 400W inverter, a cheap off-brand (??) 300W inverter from Big Lots, and a buddy of mine cooked a 1200W Coleman inverter (but he was running big 1/2" chuck drills with it at work). Now I have a PureSine 1000 with a data display face that gives you battery voltage, amp draw and whatnot. It's mainly used when camping to charge the laptop, run a light or various hand tools, angle grinders, blender, etc.

I've done that. My friend Brian did one that was borderline suicidal, the Pathy flew at least 50-60 feet at about 50 MPH. Aaaaand Steve-O went one further at a slower speed and got about this high:

Mine is this tall. I'm 5'10" or so. I had to air down to 10 psi and flip the CB antenna down to get it into my garage. hehe

I'd check the wiring on top of the tank for problems first.

The only problem with the SLR stuff is that SLR is out of business. http://www.spencerlowracing.com/

I've done that before. Press the pin out with a bench vise, swap bushings and it's all good.

What's your address? I'll send ya one.