88pathoffroad

Could be a slightly bent rod from inhaling water, but I would think it'd make some kind of noise. You never can tell though.

I highly doubt it.

Take apart the steering wheel and see how the contacts for the CC are. I seem to remember unccpathfinder saying something about fixing his once...

What color are the wires going to those mystery plugs? They COULD be fog light plugs. Does your Pathy have the CC buttons on the steering wheel? I've seen complaints of the CC not working because of the steering wheel contacts wearing out.

Jack up the LCA a little, you should get some room that way.

Pull your spark plugs and give it a compression test to see if you have a blown head gasket. White smoke is burning coolant. It may be dripping into a cylinder when it's turned off and then when you start it, it begins burning it off.

Most shops will charge you whatever they can get away with, up to $500 or more in some cases. You might try calling around to find a shop that will actually install one in the first place, most shops won't touch body lifts.

You could run either without problems, the longer ones will simply benefit your rear axle more in the articulation department if you disconnect or remove your rear swaybar. If you're going to leave the swaybar on full time, the shorter ones would be fine.

Coolness! Metric bolts are all standard sized/threaded...there's no such thing as a "specialty bolt" threaded differently/specifically. I don't think there'd be much point, the cost of the special bolts would be higher than standard ones, etc. There ARE some that are longer than most bolts, like the rearmost body mount bolts on a 90-95, that's about it. You can pick up a cheap bolt sizing template set at Harbor Freight Tools that you can use to tell what the thread pitch is on bolts.

Collector pipe, AKA, y-pipe...

Check your vacuum lines for cracks or looseness, replace the cap and rotor every now and then, run some FI cleaner through it, clean the MAF sensor...hmmm.

I'd check the headlight switch itself first to make sure it doesn't have a broken contact inside...then pull the back end taillight access panels and make sure that wiring is OK...hmmm.

Check fusible links also. Sometimes they corrode away at the battery terminal end, yet stay connected. Give each one a little tug to make sure.

Yeah, that's a spendy list right there...

I emailed Sandman the day it happened. I have yet to see a response. Bastard anyway. Blazin offered me 30 days instead of 300 if I pay back any monies made during the time I left the auto-refresh on...I said "30 days for making a mistake??? That's excessive" He said "Everybody knows you can't use a refresher, it's common sense, even just to watch the oil market" SURE. It's all printed in the rules and all over the forum, isn't it?

You'll also need to remove the flexplate, get a flywheel and bolt that up in it's place. You can't bolt a clutch set to an auto flexplate. Lots of hardware stores carry metric bolts and nuts, you can also simply switch to SAE bolts if necessary. I got some UCA spindle bolts for mine at a farm and tractor supply store, lots of tractors use metric bolts nowadays and they're not all little!

Try it again now? Who knows... You can also test the resistance of the injectors, it should be pretty low, like 4 ohms IIRC. If it's high on both then you'll probably need new injectors.

Yup, run the ECU error codes first.

There's a shock discussion thread already in progress somewhere around here...stock length Ranchos are 5118's, I used 5112's with about 4" of lift with good results. Basically, yes. You could also go buy a Trailmaster 4" lift kit, which drops the front diff and torsion bars down 4". The real limit on front end lift is the CV axles. You cannot lift it more than around 3 inches max without maxing out the angles on the CV's and potentially ruining them every time you go wheeling. I've replaced at least 4 trashed CV's by now, so I can say this with some authority. See above. The rear can be lifted much higher than the front can, so take caution with the 5" idea.

Bot my butt. I have a FF add-on that auto-refreshes the browser at set time intervals...I set it for 5 minutes, I was watching the oil market for price dips...went and did my crimes and went to bed, forgetting it was still on. Fed jail time! Oh boy.

Put it up on a simple webpage that has a donation button. Better yet, make a donation mandatory before allowing a download. You do realize that you have the one and ONLY 1990 Pathfinder FSM in the US in electronic format, right?

Stock fuel pressure for a VG30E is 43 or 46, I forget. The Nissan pump will push up to 70 unregulated PSI IIRC, the pressure regulator is the bottleneck. Get a different FPR and you'd probably be in business.

It detects cylinder detonation due to lean mixture or advanced timing and allows the ECU to readjust timing or fuel mixture to get the stoichiometric ratio of gasoline to air correct for best operation.

It'll drag down your gas mileage and spinning the front diff at 65-75 MPH probably isn't the best idea...

I bet your cable is frozen or rusted up inside, and you have to take the tire off to get water out.