88pathoffroad

OH HELL YEAH! Thanks for the pics man! This should be good stuff.

"Addicted to Chaos" by Megadeth or "Here I Go Again" by Whitesnake.

I think you have an engine problem, not a trans problem, it just happens to be more manageable at a different RPM or gear? Check the simple stuff first...vacuum lines, plug wires, cap and rotor, etc.

The E-AT switch changes the way the transmission shifts. When it is set to Auto, (or off?) it shifts normally. When it is set to the other position the transmission will down-shift sooner, hold gears for longer and help get you moving faster. For best fuel economy the switch should be set to off or Auto. OK, someone else help me out here. I don't have a 4-door and the 2-door version of the E-AT switch is a "Power" button on the shifter. It does the same thing but it's labeled "Power Shift" and the switch is either "Auto" or "Power". Is the E-AT switch on the 90-95's labeled Power and Auto too?

I think that's in the EF-EC section. Some stuff is hard to find in an FSM! Here, I found it on page EF&EC-25 in the 1994 Pathfinder FSM. Leftmost mark on the crank balancer is ZERO. Top Dead Center. Each mark to the right represents 10 degrees BTDC.

Simon: my water was shut off for a week one week ago. I didn't touch the money then and I won't in the future. I actually filled buckets at my brother's house and walked them over so I could flush the toilet and wash stuff. B... I know where you're coming from and I understand. Again, I'm sorry.

Gee, thanks, B. Very subtle. I'll admit, this is very very long overdue and I am sorry the need for this has come. To begin with: It's all there, I'm not spending donated funds on ANYTHING personal. 'K? I don't know what else to say except I'm sorry and I've been freakin broke for a long time. I'm not backing out on what I owe B, I simply don't have it. $20 is a large amount for me right now, much less $800. I never should have taken it in the first place... I had such high hopes of being able to pay it back right away and things never worked out. I am properly ashamed of myself and I'm not taking pleasure in denying B his money. I actually did have a $400 money order to mail when I sent that PM...then my power was shut off and I had to use it to get the power turned back on. That's why it never went out in the mail. I still don't have a running Pathy. Just a hulk in the garage taking up space. I told myself I wouldn't fix it until I paid B back...no spending money on it, etc...

If you're experiencing detonation with the timing at 10 degrees, then maybe something in the timing train is off a little. Is it possible that the driver's side cam is one tooth off on the timing belt? That would drop back the base timing for the distributor (because it's driven by the DS cam) a little and might cause what you describe. Has the distributor ever been pulled and dropped back in? It'll run with the dizzy one tooth off but it'll be noticeably low on power. Stock timing for my 88 VG30i is 12 degrees, for the 93 it should be 15 degrees IIRC.

Well, that was a mean trick. Who thinks I should ban Kingman? lol

LOL, old Chryslers are the worst.

Switch is probably dirty or shot.

As in, the wires come directly out of the motor with no way to unplug them at all. If you can find spade connectors to fit the prongs, make sure they're heavy duty ones, or at least quality ones...that fan pulls a hell of a lot of amperage on startup and you don't want weenie crimp connectors starting fires, heh.

I bet you could score some 15" black steel wheels for around $50 each new at Les Schwab. Tirerack.com has 16" Ultra Type 62's in plain silver with 3.75" BS on sale for $69 each. 15's aren't on sale, apparently...$97. Same wheels I have. I didn't do a lot of searching, but it seems like you could probably get a set of new cheap wheels that still look good (or at least better than stock?) for about the same price as the spacers...

You can get concrete cleaner or bleach at Home Depot or Lowes. Purple Power or Castrol Super Clean does a fair job as well.

I have a 5 ton dump truck pintle hitch on my van. I'm waiting for someone to give it a love tap, heh.

Oh Lord, it's a Citroen. *hides*

All 4. It's possible the rears were replaced in yours with non-adjustable shocks.

^^^^ Seal preserves?

It shouldn't matter if OD is on. You shouldn't get grinding from 4HI to 2HI, though.

You might ask for a second opinion. Mechanics have been known to tell people they need more work than they actually do sometimes. Best way to test for bad rings is an initial compression test dry, then add several tablespoons of oil to the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do the test again. Increased compression with the addition of oil indicates poor ring sealing.

Mine did that too. I replaced the brushes in the starter for $7 and it works great.

With all the road noise I get it really doesn't matter to me, lol. I have a pieced-together sound system that sounds great even though the tweeters came out of a junkyard Taurus and the sub amp cost me $99 on Ebay nine years ago.

Pull the distributor cap and crank the engine a little to see if the rotor turns. If it turns the belt is still on.

The economy tanked in Country because they didn't limit income for the top players or provide anything for them to purchase to keep the massive amounts of cash down. I tell ya, getting the economics right on a game like that seems to be damn near impossible. It's happening on 4x4 Mayhem too, not that I play that any more either.

There's a reason they use yellow light in headlights. Human eyes see much better in the yellow spectrum than they do in any other, especially blue.