88pathoffroad

Check to make sure the carpet on the ECU side isn't wet, just in case. I've actually floated my Pathy in ocean water at the beach before and it died, after a bit of drip-drying it ran again OK.

Seafoam is good stuff, just don't DUMP fluid into a running engine. You can hydrolock it and bend rods. Like the can says, go slowly.

The problem with wanting to SAS an R50 is that only one or two people in the WORLD have done it that we know of. It's all totally custom work and there are no "kits' to buy or aftermarket parts companies that make ANY parts for such a project.

Did you get the exact same tire size when you got new ones?

You can clean that out and use a Helicoil in it. I believe all it takes is included in a Helicoil kit if you can find one in that thread size.

I've got one of those in my garage. Lemme go count blades. Yep, 9 blades. Dated 10/91. Three wires, no removable plug.

I'm sorry, but I don't know of any companies that make headers for R50 Pathfinders. Stillen used to made headers but they were short-lived and tended to crack.

Overkill.

When you get right down to it, there's really not all that much you can remove that makes enough difference to make it worthwhile. It might clean things up though!

The third brake lights are all LED-equipped. I decided mine wasn't bright enough so I did a little modding on it using LED strips out of two Chevy third brake lights... Stock LED's. High-output LED's. On the Pathy.

Check your vacuum line for the CC actuator. No vacuum, no CC. When you replaced the EGR valve, did you clean out the lines for it? Could just be full of crud and blocked up. The knock sensor code doesn't generally cause a CEL to come on when driving, but I could be mistaken.

Ditto. If you need one I'll make it available. I even have some R50 FSM's saved on my computer.

I dropped mine about 3" with some scrap steel brackets I welded up. I felt like the cables were too tight and in need of some adjustment room. Also, when I was offroading when the rear would flex it would pull the e-brake cable and lock one wheel on me, so it was a functionality issue as well.

Mostly it's the cylinder bore size. The crank stroke is the same; VG33 swaps wouldn't be possible otherwise. The heads are slightly different as well. Aside from that the only differences are small things like sensors, wiring, ECU, etc. IIRC.

Manuals or automatics? Mine's an auto, lasted about 135k before going the way of the dodo and making plenty of noise while it did.

Yes, it's inside the tank. There's an access hole in the cargo area under your carpet to get to it. So either the injectors quit, wiring FOR the injectors quit, or there's not enough pressure to provide enough gas for it to run on. Check the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator at both ends just in case. If the vacuum was off I think it'd simply run full pressure all the time instead of no pressure, but weirder things have happened. You can test the injectors with a voltmeter using the resistance (ohm) function to see if any of them are simply out of spec. Should be 10-14 ohms between the two terminals on the end of the injector. Do you have a factory service manual for the 94 yet? Most of the testing procedures should be the same (engine wise) for your 92.

Holy crap, Dan. That is impressive. Thank you so much! Beautiful.

Could be a power transistor problem. Those damn things have been known to fail suddenly. That's the little black box wired to the coil. The power transistor is basically a high-speed electrical switch that the ECU turns on and off to fire the coil. No transistor, no spark. I really doubt you'll be able to measure spark voltage with a voltmeter, it turns on and off so fast.

I've hand-written a few notes for people and two of them actually came and joined up. We had a thread about making a NPORA flyer a while back, business cards sound cool too. Since we're not selling anything technically it's not spam to leave 'em on Pathy windshields...

I went from Salem, Oregon to Merced, California. *looks on Google Maps* 652 miles. Just over 10 hours. 1050 kilometers. Or: 1,147,520 yards. 3,442,560 feet. 41,310,720 inches. 1,050,000 meters. 105,000,000 centimeters. 1,050,000,000 millimeters. Heh.

I don't think I can buy insurance that would cover more than the minimums on my Pathy. Last time I asked they said it was too old for complete coverage. I said, "Well, I had it when I was making payments on it, why is it any different now?" Now it's not a piece of collateral against a loan for a big company...that's all. We don't have any inspections for anything vehicle-related here in Oregon. To register they have to see the car and verify that there's a VIN number that matches the title, that's it. 'Course, I'm sure if wheels were falling off and there was no windshield they'd stop me and make me fix it first but otherwise nobody cares.

Hurry up and complain to AC. Those idiots need a kick in the ass from time to time to keep them straight.

I've broken a set of those before. I think they're just a step below Warn hubs, actually. Warns always fully engaged, always worked first time. I completely stripped an OEM manual hub and got stuck 'cuz of it. Ask Slick if breaking a front diff is possible without it being locked or welded...

Topic un-pinned and relegated to the hall of shame in General Forums...

I think you'd have to try really hard to ding your gas tank under normal wheeling, even abnormal wheeling. It's already got a skidplate...