88pathoffroad

Also make sure your gas cap is tight. *nodnod*

You could get a small cooler out of a Ford Exploder at a junkyard for about $5 or $10. I have two HD ones from an Exploder in my Pathy for tranny cooling duty.

Inside the wall on the back, I think. I could be wrong.

It would be easy to install a small cooler inline with the reservoir hoses and place the cooler in front of the radiator. Simply buy a lot of new braided hose and some hose clamps, a cooler and spend a few hours doing it. Couldn't hurt. I know of one other person that has one on his Nissan, and he seemed happy with it.

About $350 a set, with the crossover pipe. They're ceramic coated, I think.

Actually, you can get more like 2.5-3" out of the stock front, but it'll be riding on the bumpstops and you'll have no downward suspension travel in the front. It will need an alignment afterwards, for sure.

My man, this topic has been beat to DEATH on hundreds of websites and boards. Yes, it's a factory defect type thing, and no, it's not cheap to fix. It'd be cheaper to buy some Thorley headers and have them installed with a whole new exhaust system than to replace the stock ones, actually.

Yes, if the t-bars are adjusted properly. They may need to be reindexed though, due to age.

Those idler arm bolts will take more torque than your arm can make, so just crank 'em on down nice and tight, but don't overdo it of course.

I'll measure tomorrow when I go to the junkyard and find out for sure.

Well, of course you wouldn't bolt a winch to your bumper. It takes a brush guard or other kind of frame-mounted winch plate for that. If you had a burly, heavy duty front bumper with a 2" reciever in it, you could use a winch cradle, and it'd be swappable from front to rear. And yes, many other people have winches mounted in their brushguards and aftermarket bumpers, like Jim.

Nope. A body lift doesn't have anything to do with shock length.

Use a pipe or breaker bar to loosen the nuts(with another wrench or ratchet on the head of the bolt), and you'll have to check on the clearance for the CL mount. It might work to just bend the brackets out of the way.

You could try L&P Performance's centerlink as a stock replacement. I'll be getting one when I have the $$.

Are you saying you just want to run the pipe only, or with a muffler? Straight piping sans muffler, it will be LOUD and raspy. 2.5" pipe is a good size for our engines.

I believe so, yes.

5252 front, 5118 rear. If you want rears that are 1.2" longer, go with 5116. More flex from the rear!

They're on the frame end. If you notice, the bumper brackets go through the body in the front... The front bumper lift brackets are the rectangular holepunched gold ones. You didn't need to take out your AC and grille man, but that's your thing. *shrug* http://www.damagedreality.com/tmaster.html

I didn't say that the 87's ONLY came with sealed windows, it was simply an option that year. Mine doesn't have a glass opener switch, but it's an XE....ah well.

That doesn't look like anything broke, it simply looks like a worn out fragment of clutch disc spacer or something. That's a very small piece. The kind of chunks you don't want to see are little crunched up bits of gear teeth... Did you add the limited slip fluid when you changed it? That might be another thing to consider.

The RS9000 and the RS9000X are the adjustable ones. The 9000's are 5-way adjustable, and the 9000X's are 9-way adjustable(with triple tubed body walls). The 5000's are standard heavy duty offroad valved shocks, RSX's are nitrogen-charged, with different internal valving that self-adjusts for each impact or compression. The 5000's just react the same way with each bump. Top of the line:

Has anyone tried swapping tires for a set of new ones and seeing if that helps? I've heard wierd things about tires just plain causing vibration after they get enough miles on them, and new tires fixing the problem...

Pics aren't working. The H233B will hold 3 quarts. It's a big diff.

It may very well be your auto hubs. Try taking them apart, cleaning them up and regreasing them. That might do it, I dunno.

Sounds like the floorpan shifter boot didn't get put back on the right way or something. That's kinda wierd.