88pathoffroad

I'll look for some for you, then.

There aren't any. If you want one like that, I do believe you'll have to do it yourself. DIY. Why not just stick the single spare on the roof? That'd work.

He's probably referring to just the bulb. Who knows?

Tailgate/hatch lift supports are about $30 each brand new...the glass ones are more like $20 each. Who needs what? I can probably get good items locally from the junkyard.

Eeeh, I think you have the proper term for the device in question. I'm used to messing with pots, so that was the term that came to mind at first. My bad!

Sheesh. I don't have that much spare time. On another note: Nice! It's always good to get better gas mileage in these days. Keep up the good work!

Must be something like the VATS keys on some 90's Chevys...the chip in the key will only start that car with that key...

Wow, that's a new one on me. I never even thought about that possibility.

3 inches of lift won't cause driveshaft vibration as far as I know. Your rear u-joints might be going on you. Check for looseness or play in the rear driveshaft. Also check clearance between the driveshaft and the safety hoop in the back. Don't let the driveshaft rub that thing...

Your potentiometer in the dimmer switch is fried, stuck in the same position, but not very well... Needs a new one. That's my take on things.

Take them both off and send them to L&P for porting and polishing. Lee knows what he's doing...

I ended up paying $11,000 for my 88 with 98,000 miles in pristine condition(minus the bad brakes) in 1999. Dammn 26% interest. And it was a 3-year loan, too.

What, this one?

"Known for flipping over"?? Where'd you hear that? I guess if you drove it around 90 degree corners at 55 MPH and hit the brakes, it'd tip over, but so would most SUV's. The 2WD's perform just as well as any other vehicle in ice and snow, which is to say, if you don't have a LSD rear axle you'll probably end up not moving at all...

My man, he owes you a new head. If there's coolant coming out of the hole, he either drilled into the water jacket or the head's been cracked and that's generally not repairable. Sorry to have to be the bearer of bad news, but it's the truth. Unless he thinks you won't know the difference and tries to fix it with JB Weld or something equally tacky like that...you might be in trouble. I'd call him on it and let him know it probably needs to be replaced now that he's screwed it up good and proper.

Oh! Good point! If the axle you were given to replace your OEM axle was for a 4WD HB with the 4-cyl from 87-89, it'd be smaller, I think. That would cause those problems for sure. Good pointing out work, JeepRescueService14!

Yup, I used to have a set of those. The only thing is, dunk them in water and they suck in water that doesn't come out, then the insides get rusty, and they look like crap...but that's why they're only $25.

Nothing I don't have on hand right now...

Chromotech...jeez man. Think. They don't make Nissan stock replacement parts. They make generic fog and driving lights. You can use some of the lights they make to replace your stock lights and from what Mr. Pickles says, they work better. You will probably have to modify your stock wiring to accomodate the new lights, yes. Generic lights don't come with Nissan plugs attached to them.

With beer or without beer?

:'(

If it's moving up and down a bit AT the knuckle, then something's wrong with your hub inside there. You may have to tear it all back apart and see. I know that the axle should move around a little with no hub on at all, just because the grease seal doesn't keep the axle in place, but movement with the hub on and everything bolted together suggests to me that perhaps the flange inside the hub is broken or not assembled correctly.

Should be the exact same for the 93 and the 95 engine. I think they just misquoted what year should fit. They should have said "Fits 96-up Pathfinders".

I've been using a water hose and blasting all the crud off the top off the plugs before removing them. The water drains off in a bit, so none gets into the cylinders. By the way, say hi to the AC guys for me. I notice that a lot of n00b questions in the Pathfinder forum aren't getting answered or are getting the wrong answers. Dumbasses...

Push DOWN on the shifter, then pull it back another notch. That'd be Neutral for the t-case. (The vehicle will roll if on an incline with the t-case shifter in this position, regardless of transmission gear selected.) Then pull it towards you another notch and it should be in 4LO. Uninstallation is the reverse of installation...thank you, drive through!