88pathoffroad

LOL! We think alike...

Tell that to the people that have had theirs plug up and make the auto tranny die on them, man...

12! ...or at the sand dunes, about 4-6. hehe

Plug-and-play. Line in, line out. Closed loop system. Make sure nothing leaks, that's about it.

Hmmmm, freebies. Don't know where to start. My spare tire, F-O-R-D... Found On Road Dead...hehehe

I thought it was the 200SX's that had the V6.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&ie=...kit&btnG=Search Personally, I'm using two coolers out of junkyard Ford Exploders with the tow package($10 each), installed inbetween the radiator and AC condenser with a $5 cooler mounting kit from a local auto parts store and some zip ties. I'm using bulk rubber reinforced hose and standard hose clamps. Been running it for more than a year now, no regrets.

Steve started it!

I want to see pics!

Front and rear diffs both take standard GL-5 80W-90. T-case takes GL-4 75W-90 or 80W-90. Can't say on the metallic hum noise. Try this for the rear diff LSD test: jack up the rear diff, chock the front wheels, put it in drive. Use a piece of 2x4 placed flat under the tire to apply pressure upwards on the tire from the front, which would act as a brake to slow the wheelspin. If the tire stops spinning and the other still spins, you have an open diff. If it takes a significant amount of pressure to stop the wheel or it won't stop at all, you have the LSD. Be careful testing this way because if the vehicle falls off the jack or stands it could run away in gear.

Yeah, they weld themselves together or melt a bit, hehehe.

Jiffy Lube can do a tranny flush for you if you're worried about it. 15 quarts should get all the sediment out, don't you think? That's what I had done. I attempted a pan drop myself as well, deemed it excessively problematic, put it back together and left it alone. My auto tranny is at 140K and still running fine with dual external coolers. I highly suggest adding a aftermarket external transmission cooler and completely bypassing the stock one inside the radiator. The stock one eventually clogs up and kills the tranny via low fluid flow, which overheats it. Standard Dexron II/III is the proper fluid to use. Incidentally, Dexron is also used for the power steering fluid. 16 pints is what the book says for the auto tranny. That would be 8 quarts or two gallons. Standard antifreeze is fine to use. Should take 10.5 quarts. The thermostat is a real pain to get to, it's in the center of the engine behind all the belts in front. I think the lowest temp thermostat you can get is a 180. It's NOT a standard style thermostat. Spark plugs are a PITA to change, but if she's going to be far away from home, it might be good insurance to change those out while you can. Front and rear diffs use standard GL-5 80W-90. If the rear diff is a LSD, use gear oil with LSD additive, or find a small bottle of additive to go with the standard fluid. When changing diff fluids, unscrew the FILL plug first. That way you can be sure you'll be able to refill the diff, just in case the fill plug is seized or something. The H233B rear axle should hold 5.6 quarts, the R200A front should hold 3.1. Just fill the diff until fluid comes back out the fill plug hole and put the plug back in. Be sure to clean off the rear diff drain plug, it's got a magnet. Transfer case uses GL-4 75W-90 or 80W-90. Takes about 4.6 quarts. Same fill procedure as the diffs. Hope that helps.

I think mine unscrewed, but there's a generous amount of glue or threadlocker on the inside of the knob. Fun stuff.

Mine has everything in it, including my personal picture.

With the number of shocks rolling around this world with the boots on them still, I really don't think it matters much (if you don't sink the Pathy into mud holes very often). Just try to spray the shocks off occasionally.

The rear upper swivel bolt is easier to get to through the wheelwell.

Oh, OK. I thought they quit importing them for us in 94. My bad!

I've heard of a few people having pinhole leaks in the gas tank from internal rust.

Toast nothing, it runs fine enough for me! 86-89 Maximas should be the same/close match engine.

Done and done. Anyone care to add anything else to the list? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28

Last time I went to NAPA, I was trying to find a single outer tie rod for a Ford HD pickup. They wanted $98. Same exact part at Knecht's Auto Parts was $23. I don't like NAPA. For one, they rarely price the shelved items, so I'm always wondering how much stuff costs when I'm browsing, and for another they price things ludicrously at times. Like tow hooks. Pair of chrome 10K lb tow hooks at NAPA: $32. Pair of chrome 10k lb tow hooks at Harbor Freight: $7.

Yes, you have to replace the distributor to fix the angle sensor. Cheapest price I've seen on a rebuilt unit is $190. A OEM replacement is upwards of $480. Mine has been throwing the same 11 code forever too. I swapped distributors with a junkyard unit from a Maxima and it still does it. The only noticeable effect is a occasional idle stumble. When revved, it runs perfectly. I don't know if the distributor from a VG30E would work or not, but I do know the ignition systems are different from the VG30i. Resetting the computer will erase the error codes, yes. Sometimes it'll take a day or so for the code to be generated again and stored in the ECU. Code 44 means "ECCS Normal Operation", according to my Chilton's manual.

I'd love to see you try and get it out from the top.

The intake's not going to be hot enough to melt a plug wire, just so you know. If it is, you've got big problems.

$100 and 15-20 minutes is all it takes for me to change an alternator out on mine. It's not all THAT expensive, considering many newer alternators run upwards of $220. You can usually get one for that price with a lifetime warranty, which is good for later if it does go out on you again. In my opinion, the stock Pathy 60 amp alternators are a joke. The vehicles are equipped with WAY more accessories than the alternator and battery will run. Add some nice lights, a decent stereo and drive it in the rain at night with them all turned on, and you've got one overused alternator and battery. By the way, a $50 junkyard Quest alternator and a day's worth of messing around with it are all it took the last time mine died...and now I have a 110 amp alternator that should outlast all of the prior rebuilt ones I've been putting on.