88pathoffroad

The Exploder cooler is located directly behind the front grille in the center. Four 5/16 bolts hold it on along with two 1/4" hose clamps at the bottom near the bumper. The ones with the tow package have a 8x12 cooler, the standard ones are 6x10. Measurements are approximate...

You'd need to do all 8 bushings. Unless you want to have to take them back out again when the opposite bushings go bad on you down the road...

Trailer wiring is simple. Splice the new trailer wires into the correct light wire already existing inside your Pathfinder for each operation, such as turn signal, brake and running lights. Run the wiring through a grommeted hole in the rear floor near the taillight on the driver's side. You'll also need to provide a ground wire for the trailer lights. There's nothing model-specific about trailer lights.

About the first thing you need would be more agressive tires. 31x10.50 is the size you need, look for a M/T tire for mud use, or an A/T for all-terrain purposes. Which brand you choose is up to you. Me, I always go for the best or most agressive thing I can get that serves my purposes, hence the 33" Swampers.

I don't think they do. Kinda like Spencer Low Racing, they make AWESOME Nissan parts, but only for Frontiers and Xterras.

I just put $20 in today... at $2.18 for 87 octane. Cheapest place in town is at $2.08, but it's owned by a bunch of idiots and they're not getting my business...darned Arco station, you have to go inside to pay, can't use a credit card, charge you 35 cents to use a debit card...and the price is going up by 2 cents per day, on average for the last two or three weeks.

I see, I see. My bad. I had to read those AC posts and think REAL hard about it before my brain joggled facts into place.

http://www.4wheelparts.com/4wp/products/pr...RAN&expand=sub6

The transfer case will be perfectly fine, man. How do you figure it'd have anything wrong with it if the hubs are unlocked and it's in 4WD? The front axleshafts would simply spin inside the hubs.

No. You will have to have the center holes enlarged so that the hubs will fit. Wheel adapters will not solve your problem.

Eeeeeh, it's not so much a matter of the hubs being locked all the time. Newer Pathys have drive flanges instead of hubs. The wheels are simply locked fulltime to the axles via splined flanges that are bolted to the brake discs. The selectability comes from disconnecting the transfer case via the switch on your dash. Just to clarify.

W T F . I still want to see pics of a bunch of brand new 1995 Pathfinders in a warehouse for sale. Tell this guy to post something here!

They're still selling the kits, so it can't be too terrible.

Most Pathfinders came without a steering stabilizer. If you want to mount one on your Pathy, this information and thread is for you. A thread already exists discussing installation of the Rancho steering stablizer on a Pathfinder. It can be found here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=1044 Other information that is useful to know: The pin which mounts on the frame near the steering box is Nissan Part # 48612-31G00. The frame already has threaded holes that match this part...however, you will have to buy your own bolts and washers. Cost is approximately $9 or less for the Nissan bracket and hardware store generic metric bolts. Part # for a standard OEM Monroe replacement stabilizer shock is SC2939. Again, no bolts, washers, or nuts are included. One end fits the Nissan pin and the other end fits the existing mounting bracket on the Pathfinder centerlink. Cost is approximately $30, much less than the $60 Nissan OEM stabilizer. Comparatively, the Rancho kit is $45 for the shock itself and about $20 more for the bracket kit to install it, plus you have to either remove or modify the centerlink brackets so they don't hit on the Rancho setup. The OEM setup mounts to the driver's side frame, like so: The Rancho setup mounts to the passenger's side frame, like this: Hope this helps!

Ever get an answer on that one, Mike? Inquiring minds want to know!

I can get you one if you really need it. There are about five Pathys out in my local junkyard.

With no connected swaybar on the back end, of course it will sway back and forth after a turn. Perhaps you need new shocks. Do the push-test: push down hard on a corner of one of your bumpers and let it go. The vehicle shouldn't rebound and bounce more than twice. If it bounces more than that, your shocks are probably shot.

Maybe I didn't bend mine enough. Seriously though, when I was done with my BL, the shifter just plain hit the edge of the floor and stopped WAY short of being in 4LO...I checked!

The Search option is your friend in this forum, man.

Could simply be a bad door pin switch that joggles loose when you shut the door but stays stuck shut sometimes.

I had to bend mine AND cut the floor out to get it to fit. o.o

They might make the No-Slip, but I dunno if they make one for the H233B rear diff, Dieselboy. Drain the gear oil out of the rear diff first. You have to unbolt the e-brake cables AND the brake lines to get the axles out far enough to remove the centersection. I suggest removing the axles completely so they don't rest on the axle seals and possibly dent the seals, which would make them leak onto your rear brakes. If your axle bearings are starting to get wobbly, take both axles to a machine shop and get new bearings installed. How many times do you want to have to remove those things? Replace the axle seals too, they're only like $7 each. The bearings are a press-fit and aren't removeable by hand. Pinch off the rear rubber brake hose with some vice-grips, then unscrew the brake lines from the brakes. Use a flare nut wrench instead of a standard wrench or pliers, unless you want to replace your brake hardlines... When you unbolt the rear driveshaft, ziptie it up to one of the rear upper control arms so you don't have to take it off completely and have a bunch of oil drain out of the t-case in your driveway or garage floor. The centersection is HEAVY. VERY HEAVY. I AM NOT KIDDING HERE. When unbolting the carrier case bolts, use a wrench on one bolt to hold the case in place and another wrench on the next bolt over to break them loose without having to put the whole thing into a vise. A coffee can works OK for a holding platform. When you get to the last bolt, just re-tighten the one next to it a bit, as long as it's not cranked too tight you'll still be able to take it back out OK. Definitely punch-mark the bearing preload adjusters and put them back together the same way with the marks matching. Make sure you don't try to put them back together with the adjusters one thread off each, ie, one screwed in one thread too far and one screwed out one thread too far. The marks will still match, but the bearing caps will not want to go on, and putting it back together wrong will almost certainly screw something up. You can use RTV silicone as a centersection gasket. Works great. I used the black stuff. Just apply it to the housing with a fingertip (go around all the bolt holes) and let it set for 15 minutes or so before you put the centersection in, cause that thing's HEAVY and it'll be kinda awkward to position when you're under the Pathy. Standard GL-5 75W-90 or 80W-90 is fine to use. If you want to use a LSD additive, go ahead. I hear it makes the locker a bit quieter around corners.

A-yup, that's your transfer case. Bolted to the transmission with two driveshafts coming out of it. Maybe it's been leaky and it's out of fluid?

somethingcool: Mine specifically says GL-4, man. Better check on that one... For the auto tranny, yes. Manual should take about 4 quarts, by the book.

Yep. The Rancho UCA's are so much different that you're required to buy new wheels with different offset to even use the Rancho kit at all.