88pathoffroad

OK people, Google.com is your friend... http://www.carcentral.net/content/guides/H...liaryLights.php

Yep yep, stock manifolds are flow-restrictive and heavy, hot and ugly. Headers flow excellent (which adds power to the engine), are lightweight, run cooler and are nice to look at. Just had to throw the beauty angle in there...

I stuck mine inbetween the radiator and the AC condenser. I had the radiator out at the time, so it was pretty easy to stick them in there. Running the hoses is simple, mounting the cooler is simple, and putting it back together is simple. I'd say go for it if you have any mechanical experience. If not, then at least have a friend that knows how help you.

Oh, and I looked up the engine output specs...this is kinda wierd. 1986 Z24: 103 HP@4800 RPM, 134 FT-LB@2800 RPM 1986 Z24i: 103 HP@4800 RPM, 134 FT-LB@2800 RPM 1986 VG30i: 152 HP@5200 RPM, 162 FT-LB@3600 RPM 1987 Z24i: 103 HP@4800 RPM, 134 FT-LB@2800 RPM 1987 VG30i: 152 HP@5200 RPM, 162 FT-LB@3600 RPM 1988 Z24i: 106 HP@4800 RPM, 137 FT-LB@2400 RPM 1988 VG30i: 145 HP@4800 RPM, 166 FT-LB@2800 RPM ARGH, they changed the rating standards for my engine so it's lower than the two previous year models! Hehe

No it isn't. Mot unless somebody added it on somewhere in the past. Most of the 4-cylinder Nissan engines from 1970-1986 are solely carbureted. There was ONE Z24i fuel injected model in 1986. There would be no point in adding a fuel injection setup to a carbureted engine. They would have to add more sensors and an engine computer to run the injection system. Check your engine designation tab undedr the hood and see which one it is. If it says "Z24", then it's carbureted, if it's "Z24i" then it's FI.

I agree. My Pathfinder has dual tranny coolers just as a safety precaution. I run it hard sometimes.

If you don't offroad it, why would you need longer shocks in the first place? So...no. It's not a problem. Stock length shocks will work fine for you. Longer shocks are for better rear axle articulation and flex.

Yep. Adding ride height makes it worse. The suspension components in the rear tend to tweak a little more under power than they would if the suspension was at stock height.

Any contaminants on the surface of the bulb (such as oils from your fingers) can cause hot spots on the surface of the glass when the light is turned on, which in turn generally causes the bulb to break or explode. That's why you never touch the glass surface of a gas-filled headlight bulb. If you do, clean it off with an alcohol wipe or alcohol soaked cloth. Just make sure it's clean!

A swirl valve is basically just a simple butterfly valve located inside the engine's intake tract that causes the incoming air to swirl, as opposed to flowing straight in. It's supposed to make the air/fuel mixture "mix better". If the swirl valves are closing when they're supposed to stay open, that would cause your bucking while accelerating problem... Can't say that I've ever heard of this particular problem before, sorry.

Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. Top of the intake in the front, I believe.

If you get on the gas while turning slightly, like changing lanes, the locked rear axles will try to push the vehicle straight ahead as opposed to just inline with the front wheels. Feels wierd, slightly disconcerting, but nothing violent or distracting. Every now and then I get a nice "bang" from the rear end as the Lock-Right side gear locking rings disconnect from the side gears while under JUST the right amount of torque. Sounds terrible...scary even, but is apparently normal and wont cause any damage. Good write-up! That's perfect.

Ah, my site is up and down like a cheap hooker at times. Just try it again sometime. http://www.damagedreality.com/tmaster.html

Getting worn, they sure don't look new any more. Tons of cuts on the tread blocks and a few gouges in the sidewalls...but I've had them on for about three years now. I dunno about mileage, but it would seem to me to be at least 20,000 miles since I had them put on. I didn't buy them for their treadwear properties.

The offset is what you need to worry about, not the width of the wheel. Well, unless you wanted to use a 10" or wider rim, I suppose. 7" wheels work fine anyway, you won't NEED 8" rims unless you want to go to a 12.50 or wider tire. I'm running 8" wheels and they fit just fine. It's all about the backspacing. Keep it close to stock and you'll be fine. Cranking up the t-bars a little bit is a good idea just to level it out and keep things nice and steady.

OK ok ok...I was talking about travel, not overall length. So sorry, Android. You know what I'm talking about!

MMmk, now that I measure, these KYB's are 16.5" compressed. I'm just going to say that they're the equivalent of a Rancho 5112. They also help support the rear end a bit, cause they're gas charged. The Ranchos aren't. Here's a pic of the spacers and shocks installed...

Hm hm, it'd be nice if I actually had money to spend before trying to make offers on parts from people... Dammit. Lemme see how long it'll take me to make some more moolah... *starts cranking on the dollah bill printer handle*

Getting to the manifold bolts through the fenderwells is a bit easier, I think. Hit each stud with a small hammer and/or an impact tool a few times before attempting to unscrew it from the head. This seems to loosen any rust or corrosion holding the threads of the studs and make them easier to remove. Otherwise you may end up with a handful of broken-off studs and no room to drill them out. If you do need to drill one out, use a reverse-cut drillbit or a stud remover, if at all possible. DO NOT drill too far in or you'll puncture the water jacket of the aluminum head and then you'll have to replace the head. A good way to test the shocks is to push downwards as hard as you can a couple of times on one corner of a bumper and let go. If it rebounds only once or twice at the most, they should be OK. If it continues to bounce three or more times, then your shocks are probably shot and need replacing. Shock choice is up to you, other people like the way OEM shocks feel on the road and I can't stand them. A good all-around replacement seems to be Monroe Sensatracs or something like that. I prefer gas-charged shocks like KYB's or full-out offroad shocks like Ranchos.

That's real nice! Heavy-dutay!

I had to trim more material out of the center of the spacers after I took this pic, but otherwise, there they are. That's 3/4" rubber floormat material. I'll getcha a pic of them installed in a bit.

'K, let me go look. The new one had the glass pneumatics removed already. Bastards. 'Course, that's where I got my spare parts steering setup, no thread dings or big scratches/dents. Miracles never cease...

'Bout half an hour to take off the skidplate, unbolt the idler arm bolts and put the new ones in, another half-hour to bolt on the new bracket, open up the box and put together the stabilizer and u-bolt bracket, then another half-hour to put it all together and put the skidplate back on. Maybe an hour and a half tops? Oh wait, that doesn't include messing with the stock CL SS brackets. Bend them out of the way with a crescent wrench or cut them off with an angle grinder...either way it'll only take a few minutes.

'Pears to me to be a tray base with two studs welded on, bolted through the two vertical bars on the carrier. I presume the top locking bar helps carry weight of the can when it's full, otherwise that's a good bit of weight for two small studs to carry...

By the way, here are overall shock lengths for the following Rancho shock numbers: 5118: 14" compressed, 22.25" extended, travel: 8.25" 5116: 14.875" compressed, 24" extended, travel: 9.125" 5112: 16" compressed, 26.25" extended, travel: 10.25" I'm going by shocks with the same mounting style(L1), top and bottom, by number. Actually, the 5116's are slightly less than 1" longer than the 5118's. My bad. These KYB's are at least 2.5" longer then the 5116's, though. Maybe they're NOT the equivalent of the 5112. o.o Hmmm...*looks* 5012: 19" compressed, 32.5" extended, travel: 13.5" O.O I gotta go measure tomorrow when it's light out. Wow. That reminds me, I need to lower my rear axle bumpstops. That or get full replacements. Eesh. Wouldn't want to compress it too far and squash a shock. I already broke my rear rock light by hitting it on the panhard rod. D'oh.