88pathoffroad

Ew, they raised the prices. Bastards. Technically, they're 1/2" and 1" spacers, the 1 1/2" term comes from the additional amount of ride height you can get by cranking up the t-bars after installing them. I put on my 1" spacers and left about 1" between the UCA and the bumpstop, just so it still has a bit of leeway either direction. You don't technically HAVE TO crank up the t-bars after installing either of them, but that's the whole point of getting them in the first place. If you install the spacers and don't crank up the t-bars, you won't get any additional lift at all anyway. They simply allow more room between the UCA and the bumpstop so you CAN crank the front end up higher.

Mine has six toes, too. Catcher's mitt paws! hehehe

Heh. There's also L&P Performance. They make burly centerlinks that basically do the same thing, minus the high cost and the idler arm/pitman arm replacements. http://www.lpperformance.com I'm getting one of these next month, along with a few other goodies...

Masta Chilton say: There are two switches on your brake pedal. TWO! One is A.S.C.D. cancel switch for cruise control. One is for brake light. Switch on left is brake light switch. Now go! Make wiring work, grasshoppa!

Masta Chilton say: Reverse light switch located on transmission! Probably passenger side! Get under truck, unscrew switch! Unplug ONE wire! Not two, not three, ONE! Then put new switch in. Plug ONE wire back in. Reverse light now work. For fog light: trace wire back to relay. Check relay! Should work PROPERLY for normal fog light function! Turn switch on, check for 12VDC+ at relay. Should be one on fulltime, one only on when switch is on! Just ONE on fulltime! If relay good, then check switch! If switch good, then check for different fuse? Go get masta another incense stick, grasshoppa.

You can run it with the t-bars cranked all the way up, but it'll make it real hard to align and the steering will hate you for it. The balljoints also won't last long, in all probability. That webpage was written a couple of years ago before anyone had really tested out the limitations of doing that. If you got a pair of 1/2" balljoint spacers from AC for about $40, it'd be a little better. New lift UCA's is the ultimate solution, though.

Seen it. Hehehehe.

'Snot a chain, it's a belt. If that belt broke before you tried pull-starting it for 1/2 a mile, kiss most of your valves goodbye.

The deal with synthetics is that they generally tend to be slipperier than dino oil, which allows the synth to be pulled past the piston rings into the combustion chamber and burned more easily. If a leak was present before using synthetic oil, then it will probably leak more when using it because of the same physical characteristic, it's slipperier on a molecular level and can seep past already-leaking seals easier than dino oil ordinarily will. Using a thicker weight synth oil can help on the leakage and consumption without hurting anything on start-up or longevity. Synthetic gear oils and transmission fluids have been proven to last longer and lubricate better than dino oils. That's something to consider... On the topic of having to always use synthetic oil after putting it in once, I call bullshyte. I've used both kinds of oil in three of my vehicles and there's no discernable difference when using dino oil afterwards. I never noticed them running differently, using more oil, leaking more or anything else. Is there some sort of fact or reason for this notion?

Hey, I'm gonna be the first to say it...sweet project Chevelle, man. I always wanted one of those. I still have my '76 Laguna, but it's down/OOC until I win the lottery, ya know? http://media.damagedreality.com/Lagunaj031.jpg http://media.damagedreality.com/Lagunaj032.jpg

"I swear, I could throw this dog 50 yards... GO LONG! BAROOOOooooooooo..." /Denis Leary

Unless you go extreme offroading (read: rock crawling) or have special need for extra low gearing, you shouldn't get the Calmini T-case gears. They're horribly expensive and won't benefit you at all if your Pathy is street-driven. Just do a standard rebuild on the t-case. Perhaps you could find a junkyard t-case for less than the cost of rebuild parts...they rarely go out like yours did.

Only on the 87-89's, I think. No snap ring or mating hub on the axleshaft for the 90-95's. I could be wrong.

It's probably just tightly fit in there. The bulb has a large o-ring around the base to seal it in the headlight housing that's probably keeping it in there pretty tightly.

Wow, top center? I need to look at more of the newer style Pathy brake setups.

Well...dunno about drilling a set of stock rotors. You could try it and see. *shrug*

Aha! I missed seeing the auto hub clutch disc and brake still on your axle. Yep, that should do it. If it doesn't, try checking out the Warn website for info, maybe...

The LSD rear diff has an orange sticker on it on the driver's side facing the rear bumper that says "Use only LSD-type fluid", basically. The SE's with rear disc brakes are almost all LSD, if I'm not mistaken. There may be some that are not LSD that have rear discs, though. The stock LSD diffs are known for allowing a lot of slippage and wearing out after a while. It's not a really good LSD diff, in other words. Under heavy use it will generally not work too well.

The only way the high beams are gonna flicker is if the switch is malfunctioning. The relay isn't gonna do that by itself, and the plug on the back of the headlight bulb won't do it, cause the high beam +12V wire wouldn't be on anyway unless the switch was causing it to be on. Re-check or replace your headlight/turnsignal switch, I say.

They're all aluminum cased, and mine specifically calls for GL-4. Most Toyota t-cases take GL-4, and they're all alu-cased, too. Dex II is an old formulation. Dex III should have the same fluid friction-modifier characteristics and viscosity ratings that the old version of Dex had. Read the label on the bottle and see.

Gas is averaging $2.20 for 87 here, I've seen as high as $2.50 for 87 in some out-of-town areas.

Ugh, lemon wine coolers. Gross. SO weak, too! I think Bud Lite has more alcohol in it.

Yeah, they bow out a little when they're compressed. So do stock coils. Let's see pics, man!

Well, the board search didn't give me anything useful and I didn't feel like doing more. It's not my question!

We HAD a discussion goin on around here about that, but dammn if I can figure out where it went. The search returns a million things I didn't want.