88pathoffroad

Isn't it though? I hate that, you can't touch the dang gas pump yourself, even if you've previously worked at a gas station and know what you're doing in the first place. Crock of crap.

The transmission is in neutral before you're attempting to shift into 4LO, right?

Cheapest gas in Salem, Oregon: $1.96 per gallon for 87 octane. Expensivest gas: $2.19 for 87 octane, I don't know how some of these places stay in business... Most I ever paid for gas, unwillingly: $2.59 per gallon for 87 octane in Ashland, OR last summer. The Texaco had mini-service pumps and full-service pumps with DIFFERENT GAS PRICES and little tiny signs that I didn't notice. After it was done, I looked at the cost and asked the guy why the big sign said $2.09 when I was paying $2.59 at the pump, he says "You're at the full-serve pump station. Want me to check your oil or wash your windshield?" I about lost it my temper. Got in the van, slammed the door and powerbraked a nice black strip of rubber with lots of white clouds of smoke right there before I left...

Use some WD40 on it(just a little) and the boots should slip off and back onto the new ones without being too slippery...

Dammn! That looks very nice! ARB used to make rears, but they were kinda small and not very cool looking...

Leave the rubber boot off completely. All they do is collect mud, dirt, dust and water that in turn starts to make your shocks rusty and degrades the chrome piston rod...which eats away the top end seal and eventually makes the shock leak fluid.

How much work is it to remove the upper intake, anyway? You could thoroughly clean it out if you did take it off...

You can't. You will need to take at least two of the wheels to a machine shop and have them enlarge the center holes to fit over your hubs.

The generic links are because there aren't enough companies producing custom intakes for Pathfinders. Take what comes, know what I mean? I can't do ANYTHING to mine (intake-wise) except drop in a stock replacement K&N filter. Your Pathy has a tranny cooler, yes. It's inside the stock radiator and it doesn't do a very good job. Adding an external one will help immensely. If you do decide to add one on, put the new cooler on the output side of the stock cooler, then loop it back out to the return line for the tranny. That way it'll run thru the radiator first and warm the fluid up a bit on colder days. The front bearings are the only ones that will ever need to be repacked. By looseness, I mean if you can rock the wheel up and down or left to right any more than a tiny bit, you might be having problems. I have no idea what BG44k or BG MOA is, so that one's up to you. The Pathy should last you well over 120,000 miles (in most cases, at least 200K) with proper care and oil changes. I wouldn't worry too much about it.

I'm rich! ..... BEEEEEATCH!

What did the hand say to the face, Steve? SLAP!

First to 1000 posts! Who wants to try and beat me to 2000?

The diesel and the V6 drivetrain should be the same, if I'm not mistaken. I couldn't really say, we never got the diesel models over here. Sorry.

You don't have a transfer case or front differential. "LSD" refers to a Limited Slip Differential. Those are only found inside the rear axle. Look underneath your Pathy at your rear axle. If there's an orange sticker on the back side of the axle, then you have the LSD unit. Use the approipriate fluid for refilling it if you do the service. Not unless the belts are worn, loose or slipping. Same for the brakes. If the brakes NEED replacing, have the brake system flushed at the same time. Other than that, they shouldn't need anything done to them. Same for the bearings. They should be fine unless they're making funny noises or your wheel appears to be loose when jacked off the ground. The power steering fluid should be fine, too. A transmission cooler would be a great addition to your Pathfinder if you live in a hot climate, yes. Hayden makes a fine line of cooler kits that are complete and relatively easy to install. Perhaps you're not looking in the right places. I found a bunch of stuff in a few seconds using Google.com. http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=UTF-...formance+intake http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=UTF-...ormance+exhaust

When I had a leaky axle seal, the leaking gear oil on the rear brake pads made one of the rear brakes lock up when ever I would try to slow down...

We don't have radius arms, but we have tension rods. Good point. Same theoretical placement and bushing replacement.

I think they stopped producing 300ZX's for the US in 1994. Does your friend live outside the US?

Hehehe

This question has been asked many times. The Power button changes the way the auto transmission shifts. When the switch is off, it shifts normally. If you hadn't noticed, when you mash the gas quickly sometimes the light will come on. That means that the microswitch on the gas pedal is triggering Power mode in the transmission computer, which modifies the shift points (it will downshift faster and upshift at higher RPM's) and revs the engine a bit higher than it normally would for better acceleration. When the Power switch is turned on, it will be in Power mode fulltime until you turn the switch off. Again, the 4LO question was just recently asked. To shift into 4LO, put the auto transmission in neutral, then pull back on the transfer case lever one notch, which puts it into 4HI (you can shift it into 4HI in any gear and up to 45 MPH safely, but the vehicle must be stopped and in neutral to put it into 4LO). Then PUSH DOWN on the lever and pull it towards the rear of the vehicle another notch. That puts the t-case into neutral. (In this position, the vehicle will roll on an incline, regardless of transmission gear selected, so keep your foot on the brakes.) Pull the shifter back one more notch and you will have it in 4LO. Sometimes a bit more pushing downwards is required to get it back into 4LO. Uninstallation is the reverse of installation. Thank you, drive through!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...3093986886&rd=1

Front or rear, or both? Is it sitting on level ground to begin with? How'd you notice 1/8" anyway? That's a tiny amount.

No...they never call, they never write... just took my money and left me all alone...

Mine: 3" Trailmaster body lift 3" t-bar crank/reindex lift up front with 1" BJ spacers 3" lift in rear via JGC coils with the pigtail re-bent out for max height, plus 1" spacers above the coils. Rancho RS5000 shocks, RS5252 front, RS5116 rear, switching to RS5136 front soon because they're 1.5" longer than the 5252's. I want longer rear shocks too, but I need to make a panhard drop bracket first. THEN you'll see some mad flexing from the ole Pathy. At least in the rear.

I bet he means that they have 1,995 different Pathfinders on hand for sale, not a bunch of 1995 year model Pathfinders.