88pathoffroad

Pep Boys sucks. Period. They opened a huge store here and it closed less than a year later due to poor service, high prices, and terrible selection. The old Pep Boys store is now a Mexican Supermarketado. Your timing belt isn't due for another 30,000 miles if I'm not mistaken. I'd leave it be for now and just get replacement plugs, cap/rotor, wires and filters. It should keep running just fine that way. The dealership is the best place to go for a t-belt change unless you can do it yourself.

What, for stock replacements? Junkyard. Just make sure you get them off another Pathfinder and not a HB pickup, the rear pickup flares are different. I see those things on sale on Ebay all the time. Bushwacker sells two different kinds also. I dunno about the quality of the Ebay flares, but the Bushwacker flares are nice.

Read the tacked topic at the top of the Garage section about reading the ECU error codes. The search function works on here, too.

Hrrrr. Never had to get in there, personally. Sorry.

Swaybar bushings are easy. Simply unbolt and replace. Rear axle control arm bushings are hard, so are upper control arm bushings. Generally requires a press to remove the old ones, or burning them out with a torch.

Monroe Sensatracs are good stock replacements, AFAIK. Tenneco makes them, same company that makes Rancho shocks. Just unplug the stock adjustable shock wiring and install the new shocks. Or, you could go with replacement adjustable shocks from Nissan, I hear they're not that expensive from the dealer(stealer)...wonder of wonders... Springs won't "blow out", but they do tend to sag down after a long time and become more flexible, rather than supporting the weight of the rear of the vehicle properly. Body cracks, eh? Are you sure it's not simply cracks in the undercoating? Or are the cracks really big and visible? That's a new one on me.

Yeah...maybe 1987-1989 SE's got shoulder belts, mine is an XE. Fairly spartan...no power windows or locks, no power rear window popper, no remote anything, no tire carrier, no fender flares until I added them... But what I DO have still works just fine. Everything. I can't think of one thing on my Pathy that doesn't still work just fine.

Also, take into consideration that most of the heat under the hood comes from the exhaust manifolds and the radiator, which are located next to the framerails and in the front center, respectively. The stock airbox really isn't in that bad of a spot to begin with. The only time a cone filter would be pulling hot air would be at idle or at low speeds. When the vehicle is in motion, air shoots right over the top of the headlight on the driver's side and goes right through the stock airbox location.

Good call, good call.

You can't use HEI style cap ends on a Pathy, totally wrong style. I would assume that the socket style would be just straight booted cap ends, and the 90 degree ones would be just like stock ends. I'd say the 90 degree distributor end wires with straight plug ends would work allright.

I measured eight different ways on three different UCA's and they all came out the same, as far as my tape measure is concerned. I measured overall arm length, spindle length, spindle bolt location and spacing, UCA bushing width, balljoint width and length, overall UCA height, bumpstop pad location, and everything else I could think of. They all matched. I measured a 97 HB, a 95 Pathy and an 89 Pathy. All 4WD, all with good UCA's(not visibly wrecked prior to measurement). The angle at the end of the UCA for the BJ may be a skosh different, but not that I could tell just by eyeballing it. Looked the same to me.

Man, if they spend 5 hours taking off and putting on a tow hitch(even with wiring), they're REAL slow movers. Heh.

That would be cool if you never took it offroad into situations where it could suck water into the intake or get coated with dirt and mud.

Oh oh, that was it! Sorry, my bad. Mercury Villager it is. darn cross-vehicle manufacturerisms.

Also known as a Ford Windstar minivan. 1993-1997 are the years you should look for. Oh, and Steve...I have five more of those deep-cycle batteries in my garage, courtesy of Comcast's mismanaged recycling program. I fished them out of a dumpster after they were replaced with newer batteries. These were never used, simply float-charged for two years then tossed. Imagine that. No wonder the cable TV rates keep going up, eh?

Woo! Extra liftage! Nice! Now, only a little bit more and you can fit 33's under there... On another note: darn you! You've got the ceiling mounted rear seat shoulder belts in your model! We didn't get those at all over here.

Hey! Andrew, you're gonna get it... I'm coming over to Brian's on Saturday for the body lift party. Watch your back! *swatswat*

I was kiddin', you know...

Stock wires are 7mm, I believe. My Taylor wires came with straight boots for the plug ends. The distributor ends are all 90's. Going up 1 or 1.5mm in wire size doesn't matter one bit. Same routing, same locations, same access.

Maybe you should just post your question in your native language and see if anyone knows how to answer, cause I can't really make heads or tails out of what you want to know. You're saying that your doors don't lock automatically, right? Not close by themselves, cause that'd be a nice trick to see...hehe.

Your question mark key must not work, eh? Remove the leather shifter boot from your floor along with the console. Remove the rubber shifter boot from the floor. Remove whatever holds in the shifter. pour a predetermined amount of gear oil into the resulting hole. Reassemble and drive. It's not that hard to figure out. -study-

There isn't any real info available on either topic. An engine swap and front axle swap like you want are completely custom, one-off jobs. Every person that has done it has gone about it a different way. It's very expensive, it requires lots of cutting and welding, the ability to have the vehicle down and off the street/trail until it's finished, and knowledge of drivetrain manipulation/body clearancing/fabrication.

It goes back on just fine. Lots of clearance.

I've gone through five alternators in less than five years now, with the latest alternator failure leaving me stranded in the middle of the sand dunes with no help around but the occasional passerby. I feel your pain, brother! I'm in great need of a better alternator too! The stock Pathfinder alternator is a 60 amp unit if I'm not mistaken. I know mine is. A few companies have produced and sold bracket kits allowing you to bolt a GM/Delco C130 alternator to your Nissan with wiring upgrades. It has also been discovered that a 240SX alternator from 1993-up is a 90 amp unit and will swap into your Pathfinder if you put the Pathfinder pulley on the 240SX unit first. The Nissan Quest alternator is a 110 amp unit, requires a pulley swap as well, fits almost perfectly where the stock Pathy alternator was(some grinding on the housing is required for block clearance), and retains all the stock wiring receptacles, etc. I've heard from several other people that their Quest alternator actually is underrated and put out more like 135 amps! What I'm going to do is: Get a junkyard Quest alternator, take it to a alternator shop and have it tested to make sure it's running properly and for output amperage, then modify it to fit into my Pathfinder. Double your stock amperage output for less than the cost of a stock replacement? I think so! I'm also installing a deep-cycle backup battery in the back of my Pathy for the rock lights, stereo, etc. One battery for 500+ watts of lighting and a 1000W stereo probably isn't QUITE enough. On the one-wire idea: the alternators are generally in the same price range, could very possibly (as you stated) cause voltage spikes on startup or on revving, I don't really know about pulley fitment or swappability, and the case is built differently so you'd need a whole new bracket setup to bolt it onto your VG30. On the other hand, they're more readily available (most parts stores have them on hand right away) and generally have more aftermarket support(replacement parts, rewound stators, etc). So. It's up to you as to what you want to do. Let us know what other ideas you have on this subject.

Geolandars are really cool. I like 'em. I also like the ProComp M/T's and their A/T's. They have a good warranty, AFAIK. On the other hand, I heartily reccommend Super Swampers for all your Pathfinder driving needs!